Mongo40 said:
Here's another question, once I've sanded an shaped it like I want it do I install the base plug then stain it or or stain it then install the base plug which will require me to heat it up some to get it in????
Chris,
I'll let you in on a little fitting secret that many Horners use, including myself to get a perfect butt plug (Yes!, that's what their called!)fit everytime!....Make sure that the diameter thickness of the base of the horn is the same all the way around the horn.
Make sure that the turned or natural shaped base is fit into the horn smuggly, but not TOO TIGHT!
Ideally, it should be just a hand pressed fit! If you have to pound on the plug with a mallet or hand tap on bench...It is too tight and could evenually split, as to much pressure is on the fibers of the horn and something has to give!
You shouldn't have to drip any bee's wax in the rim of your horn, if you put the bee's wax on the interior edge of the horn butt before pressing it in the base of the horn. You can pre-drill equally spaced brad sized holes, where your pegs will be to hold the butt plug in to hold everything in place, but only tap these brads in the butt plug base half way, so you can remove later!
One more hint!....Many and most Horners today don't bother with bee's wax sealing anymore!...... :shocked2: Personally, I use a high quality water-proof wood glue and just run a tiny bead around the inside rim of the wood butt plug and then I take a heat gun and warm the base of the horn well and press everything together and brad tack. After everything sets and dries, I pull the brads...drill my peg holes and peg each hole with a spot of glue on each peg tip!
Now for any PC police getting ready to jump me! I'll just add, that making powder horns today incooperates using many, many different things associated in powder horn making, from powder tools etc., and if you rather use bee's wax. By all means do! But using a quality modern glue that can't be seen anyway, is better than hoping your horn doesn't leak later!
Rick