Colt 1860 Army Stainless

[jed1177]

Hello everyone. I am new to this forum and blackpowder shooting. I recently inherited one of these minus the box etc. Revolver was never loaded or fired.

It has the famous 3 clicks and actions works as designed. I noticed that the trigger screw was protruding on the left side with about half of the screw head above the surface. The cylinder screw was also slightly loose but not as much as the trigger screw.

I snugged them up and now the 3 clicks are only 1 click and the hammer will not remain in the cocked position after your remove your thumb. I backed both screws off like I originally found them and everything returned to normal. Snugged them once again and the result repeated just like the first time.

I would like to shoot this revolver, but I am somewhat hesitant until I can determine what the problem is.

Any explanation of what i happening here and what is the fix?

Thanks in advance!

 

[don hepler]

I'm just going to take a guess here. Others who know better can chime in.

Some of the 1860's had a notch cut in the backstrap and a screw that stuck out on the left side, to attach a shoulder stock. I'm not sure if that's what you have or not. Look for the notch cut in the backstrap.

Is this a 2nd generation Colt or does it have Italian import markings?

 

[don hepler]

Also, does it have 4 screws on the left side? The notch on the backstrap will be at the bottom back edge. If it is a 4 screw model the one screw is said to "stand proud" and you have a highly sought after revolver.

 

[jed1177]

Yes, it is a second generation Colt. It has the notch in the back strap along with 2 stock screws (one on each side).

It does have 4 screws on the left side. There are no import marking of any kind on the revolver.

On the left side it is marked "Colt Patent U.S." and "44 cal" on the trigger guard assembly just ahead of the grip panel.

Serial number is 6 numbers followed by a "S" suffix.

The 2 screws ahead of the left stock screw are the ones I snugged up creating the aforementioned problem. Any ideas on what is causing this?

 

[robinsroost]

The trigger screw is to adjust the trigger pull. Set it like you like it, then put a drop of locktite on the exposed threads. I would not set the trigger pull less than 2 pounds....Robin

 

[mhb]

D.D.:
Please explain how the trigger pivot screw may be used to adjust the weight of trigger pull - in the Colt revolvers, it is a simple screw upon which the trigger is suspended; and without some change in design, or additional parts/mechanism, no tightening or loosening of the screw is likely to affect the trigger pull, unless it is backed-out of its seat in the opposite receiver wall and allows the trigger to slip out of its proper place.
I've never examined a Colt revolver of any generation in which the trigger pull was adjustable by any manipulation of the pivot screws.
mhb - Mike

 

[swathdiver]

Yes, it is a second generation The 2 screws ahead of the left stock screw are the ones I snugged up creating the aforementioned problem. Any ideas on what is causing this?

Same thing happens with my ASM Colt Pocket Police. I just back it off a little and all is well. I assume the shaft of the screw binds the trigger as its not perfectly round but has worn in to where it works fine until moved out of place.

 

[don hepler]

I don't know, but on some that I have seen for sale, the 4 screws are run all the way in, and on others, one of the screws is sticking out from the frame.

 

[Zonie]

It sounds like the incorrect screw might been inserted into the trigger screw hole.

This is the lower screw that is towards the grip.

From the discription of your problem, something on the trigger screw is pushing against the side of the trigger when the screw is fully tightened.

It is supposed to be a shoulder screw that has a smaller diameter running thru the trigger and into the small hole on the right side of the frame. The rear of the screw adjacent to the screw head is threaded and when properly tightened the underside of its screw head bottoms out in a counterbored or relieved area outside of the threads in the frame.

If the correct screw is in place, when tightened it is actually tightening the underside of the head against the bottom of the counterbore and there is absolutely nothing that could push on the side of the trigger to bind it up.

Likewise, the cylinder lock screw is identical to the trigger screw and when tightened it too bottoms out its head in the bottom of the counterbore.

 

[don hepler]

If you're planning on shooting this revolver, I would suggest, looking at the video on youtube, showing the dissassembly, and reassembly of the 1860 Colt. Anyone who is going to use these guns needs to be able to do a complete tear down from time to time, for a complete cleaning. And you'll see how every thing functions.

 

[jed1177]

Zonie,
From what I understand both the trigger screw and the cylinder stops screw are identical (exploded parts diagrams list them as the same screw and part number anyway). When snugged down the head of the cylinder stop screw actually is recessed into the frame slightly.

My though was then they were identical. Do you think so? and if so, what would be the benefit of switching them.

Something has to be changing something when they are tightened.

UPDATE: I removed both the trigger screw and the cylinder stop screw and they are identical. I reversed them and no change whatsoever.This really has me perplexed.

 

[Zonie]

The two screws should be the same.

The difference in depths may be due to manufacturing tolerances or it may be that one of the counterbored pockets for the screw head was mis-machined or altered by some previous owner.

In order to evaluate the problem is to take just about everything apart. You do not have to remove the hammer so you won't have to mess with the cylinder hand.

If you haven't figured out how to take the gun apart, this video goes thru the process pretty well. It's for a 1851 but they are all basically the same except for the loading lever.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Au-d3SbELvQ

If I had it apart, after removing the trigger/cylinder lock spring I would try the screws and watch what they were doing, especially to the trigger.
If it is screwing in too far because someone messed with the depth of the counterbore I think I would just install the screw so the head was as flush with the side of the frame as is possible without it binding up the trigger.

I would use the blue Loc-Tite on the threads to keep the screw in the correct place.

By the way, the only thing that can be installed backwards is the two legged leaf spring.
When it is installed correctly, the long leaf will be on the trigger notch and the shorter leaf with the curve will be on the cylinder bolt.