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Condensation fouling vs fouling fouling

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armymedic.2

45 Cal.
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I have had my flinter go plooof instead of bang before. But i blamed and blame it on the lube i was using and having it loaded too long with a liquidy lube. I didnt blame it on condensation though i know it is real. Here is why.

We worry about our loads in the barrel, but not our powder horns or flasks. Ive never had someone tell me a half lb of powder was ruined in their horn or flask because they brought it inside We all do dont we? Educate me if you are interested in doing so
 
I think the big difference is the powder in your rifle is enclosed in steel, and the powder in your horn is enclosed in horn. I think condensation will form more readily and in a greater quantity on steel than on horn.

Great question, I'm curious what the others will say, thanks.
 
Shooey said:
I think the big difference is the powder in your rifle is enclosed in steel, and the powder in your horn is enclosed in horn. I think condensation will form more readily and in a greater quantity on steel than on horn.

Great question, I'm curious what the others will say, thanks.
In short, YEP!

Although, I have had powder clump up in both metal and horn flasks.
I believe condensation is affected by the rate of heat transfer from the air to the given material. The slower the transfer the more condensation.
 
I hear what you are saying for sure. My prime clumps sometimes in its closed brass tube. Wonder if my steel tube reloaders will be affected. Have 15 made and they have been in my truck for a week heating up and cooling down. More sealed than my barrel for sure.
 
Why would you be carrying so large amount of powder out on a hunt?I have never had a problem in all kinds of weather conditions of my extra loading and priming powders.
 
It's about the fouling, not the metal vs "other",
armymedic.2 said:
My prime clumps sometimes in its closed brass tube.
Your primer comes into contact with your fouled lack pan,, the tiny amount of fouling picked up in that tiny tube is enough to plug it
 
Depends on what the hunt is for and for how long. Maybe a touch of an exagerration but my one horn I use with my fowler holds probably o.4 lbs. and i fill er up. Otherwise i dunno how much i have really. Its never clogged up. No reason not to carry it A squirrel hunt turns into a patterning session and im all set Never run out of fuel that way. My shot snake holds about thirty five loads. Fill that up too sometimes. One day when i get "snowbound" im going to love my big containers
 
Sidenote, i carried a double combat load in iraq too. Never needed all of that extra weight. But I was sure glad to carry it just in case.
 
I hear that. Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. You must have rolled with some grunts haha.

My primer gets chunky too sometimes and doesn't want to dispense so easily. I've wondered if it's the granulation of powder but have also read that black powder does not attract moisture. Necchi brings up a good point about the primer coming in contact with the fouled pan - I used the vent pick for my primer the other day
 
SgtErv said:
have also read that black powder does not attract moisture.

I called the people who make the stuff and asked them that very question.....
They disagree with your posit.

I think they know more about it than we do...
 
Accept moisture yes but wick it out of the air cc?

Pan fouling creates an obvious soup in humid air but a clean pan with prime, if kept dry from actual water doesnt seem to in my experience. Did they say why? Granulation matter?

Sgt i rolled with an air assualt unit in blackhawks. We loaded heavy.
 
I'll definitely take their word for it. I knew Pyrodex does. I'm thinking that since it does, the finer granulation would have more surface area and so it'd possibly be more succeptible to moisture.
 
colorado clyde said:
SgtErv said:
have also read that black powder does not attract moisture.

I called the people who make the stuff and asked them that very question.....
They disagree with your posit.

I think they know more about it than we do...


I still question that. Maybe the people asked were not sure of the question. If that were true, an opened can or horn with powder would gunk up with time, especially in a humid environment. However, burned bp residue is very hygroscopic (moisture attracting).
 
The size of the granulation doesn't really make a difference with respect to moisture, because the granules are glazed and graphite coated. Where granulation size makes a difference is in ease of ignition and increased rate of deflagration.
 
BP is made in water, so it would want to rehydrate itself. But, if it is graphited and glazed, I don't think it's going to pull moisture out of the air.

Now water streaming in through the touch hole would be another situation. :grin:
 
The "why and how" of the hygroscopic nature of Black powder and the chemicals used in it's making can be found in this dissertation by Bill Knight aka; The Mad Monk.
He was/is a member here. http://www.laflinandrand.com/page3.htm
Primarily in parts 1 and 9.
Part 9 delves deeply into relative humidity, hygroscopic and corrosive properties of fouling.
(get the facts)

BP picks up moisture,, but it looses it too.
:v
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Rifleman1776 said:
I still question that. Maybe the people asked were not sure of the question. If that were true, an opened can or horn with powder would gunk up with time, especially in a humid environment. However, burned bp residue is very hygroscopic (moisture attracting).
It's good to question things.
When I called the factory I didn't speak with a flunky, and I didn't call for verification to something I had already observed and tested myself. I only called for additional citation.

So! If you still question it then formulate a scientific test and test it for yourself.
If your test is verifiable and repeatable by others you could get the science books rewritten. :haha:
 
what the factory told you is correct. Black Powder is not a compound, its a mixture, made of 3 components. Potassium Nitrate, Charcoal and Sufphur. The charcoal is the fuel, the Potassium is the oxidizer, both of which are slightly hygroscopic. The Sulphur is added to keep the Charcoal from absorbing enough water to make it incombustable. it is a good idea to keep your powder sealed specially on very humid days. as soon as the humidity drops and the powder gets warm, the powder will dry out on its own. the wetter it is, the slower it burns.
 
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