Converting a CVA Kentucky

[Versanaut]

My matches have ground to a halt recently so I am using the time to recondition my primary shooter. I was gifted a CVA Kentucky (45 caplock) in pretty rough shape a couple years ago. She was used and abused and was in non-firing order. I put enough work into it to get her back on the line and she has been my primary match and hunting rifle ever since.

So, in making her pretty, the barrel needed attention badly, so it is off and I am refinishing it. Which means the bolster/drum needed to be removed. It is now off, but it will need to be replaced. Not a problem, there are replacements on track. BUT... My question.. I always wanted a flinter. I can get a lock, but what about that HUGE gaping hole in the side of the barrel... The drum is 10-1.25 metric thread.... The biggest touchhole liner I have found was 8-1.25. So to my friends, family, and crew here... Has anyone here converted one of these to flint? If so how'd ya do it?

OR... Am I best to put a drum back on her?

Thank you all for your help and guidance!

 

[simonbeans]

Get the right size metric bolt (local hardware) and make your own liner.

 

[87TT]

I did one way back in the 70's but I swapped barrels and locks with a guy who wanted percussion and I wanted flint. Can you use a 5/16" liner? If not, you could find a hardened bolt that was big enough and re drill and tap for it. Drill the recess on the inside end of the bolt, screw it in tight, cut it off flush, then drill the touch hole. Make sure you cut the bolt so it's shoulder (threadless part) stops with the end the proper depth in the chamber.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I found a stainless steel bolt with correct threads and made my own liner. You end up with a huge (relatively) internal cone. This gives you very fast ignition.

 

[Versanaut]

Never crossed my mind to make my own. While a search on the forum was not quite productive, I Googled this suggestion and found a number of older articles on this forum where folks did the same. Two things concern me..

The first are any remaining exposed threads from the patent breech. Though, this would be the case with any aftermarket bolster/drum. I did see one suggestion where someone cut off the CVA bolster at the barrel flat and drilled and tapped it for a liner. Not sure how I feel about nested sets of threads though that is what some say CVA did to convert them. Otherwise I could attempt to grind down the internal threads with the dreaded dremel or just leave em. Any experience on the effects of leaving them?

Second is the homemade liner. Drilling and 'coning' seem straight forward to me. My question is how to get fit the barrel flat flush with the liner without gaps. I think this is what @87TT was getting at and maybe I did not quite understand. Will the shoulder/shank be enough to bottom out the liner without gaps? If I cut on the threads, there will be a gap and I wouldn't be able to seat the liner.

Thanks to everyone for your thoughts!!!

 

[flinter1977]

I have converted a few cva and traditions by cutting off the drum and drilling for a liner i used the lyman liners since i have a lyman flintlock.

 

[87TT]

I think it just needs to be in tight but not too deep to intrude on the chamber. Then cut it off and grind it flush with the barrel flat.

 

[user 34300]

A void between the liner and powder chamber will fill with fouling. There is no way to clean it. It will become unreliable in short order.

Machining a liner to match the old drum will address that. IT will have a narrow flame channel. That will be unreliable right off the bat.

Using the old drum to make a liner bushing may pan out. You's be burning bridges. After cutting it off flush drill and tap for the line. Open up the flame channel so powder can get in there reliably.

You'd be better off to cut the breech end off. Fit a new tang and plug. Install a correct vent liner. Install proper under lugs to secure the barrel.

You'd be much better off to have left it alone. Messing with CVA drums and breech plugs usually does not end well.

 

[Cherrybow]

Deer creek has the replacement touch hole liner for 7.25 right now.

 

[mooman76]

I also did one years back before I knew it couldn't be done. Like others I made the liner from a stainless steel metric bolt. I coned it and cut it flush with the flat. I bought a Traditions lock because back then they were the same part number. I couldn't find a CVA one and there was no internet to speak of then to search.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Save your money, unless you're going to upgrade the lock, you will be frustrated with a CVA flintlock. Couple that with the patent breech, it'll drive you nuts. My advice is to leave it percussion.

 

[Pete G]

I agree 100 %

 

[Versanaut]

I really appreciate all the input. The local hardware store did not have M10-1.25 stainless, only some hardened hex bolts. I bought a couple to practice with and learned a couple things. Even being careful when cutting and cleaning up the threads, I could not close the gaps caused by the Thread pitch at the surface of the barrel flat. I’d need to chamfer the barrel hole And flare the vent liner a bit to do it. Not something I’m skilled or equipped to do nicely. Second, it’s dang near impossible for me to mark dead center on the silly bolt to drill the flash hole. The threads throw me off. Finally, after getting close enough I realized, my drill chuck, a table top craftsman, has way to much wobble to make a pretty hole where I want it!

I was able to clean up the marks I put on the original bolster in removing it. I’ve decided to keep this one percussion.

I learned more on what I can, can’t, and shouldn’t do! Again, thanks!!

 

[Kansas Jake]

Learning experiences are never bad unless you injure yourself or destroy something of significant value.