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Cork wads

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Oldnamvet

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A long time ago an old gentleman who had shot with a muzzleloading shotgun all his life told me that the best patterns came from using cork over shot wads. He said that they blew apart when the gun was fired and would not disrupt the patterns. Sounded reasonable but they seem somewhat expensive. Anyone ever tried them and seen any advantage? http://www.precisionreloading.com/corkwads.htm
 
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I've used them in the past and they work great, as they do seem to break up upon being fired. I didn't know they were still available. The only thing that some might regard as a downside is that they are a little more fragile than other o.s. cards so you need to be a bit more gentle when loading them. But they're worth it in my estimation.
 
I just went back to the web-site and checked the price and it's a little over 3 cents apiece. That's probably not so bad when you figure how long that bag will last. Used to be able to buy sheets of cork and punch out your own wads and if that's still possible you'd save some money and be able to punch out cards for whatever gauge you needed at the time. I seem to remember putting a dab of lube on the shot side of the wad just as it was loaded. It kept the fouling nice and soft and may have lubed the bore a little for the shot.
 
If you can find sheet cork, making your own is easy. All you need is a punch and something to whack it with and a little time.
 
I have seen it often in some of the larger craft stores. I actually have a few sheets that I use to cover the bottoms of sanding blocks for hand sanding when woodworking.
 
I've used cork wads and they work great. The ones I had I got in a box of stuff I bought at an auction, so when my little supply ran out that was it.
 
I never thought about using a frangible o/s card, what a wonderful idea :grin:

What we need is one of those wonderful freeze action pictures showing what the card actually does when it leaves the bore. Does it deflect the shot column :hmm:
 
I've often thought that as the overshot card leaves the muzzle and begins to slow, it must have an effect on at least some of the shot. The recovered cards are always a bit beaten up. The cork wads are nearly impossible to find and if you do get lucky all you get are a few bits.
As I recall, we tried a load that went something like this: the powder and then a overpowder card with about a third of a fiber wad over that. Then we took a circle of thin chamois with some thin lube on it and pushed that into the muzzle about an inch and a half or so with some hanging free of the muzzle. Into this little "pouch"was poured the shot charge. The excess chamois was then folded over the shot and rammed home. Finally, the cork wad was seated on top of the whole affair. It took a while to get the size of the chamois right, but once we did it worked beautifully. Patterns were improved beyond expectations and were, to us at least, well worth the effort.
It seems likely that what was happening was that as the cork wad cleared the muzzle it simply broke up and had no effect on the shot, but more importantly, when the chamois cleared the muzzle it spread open and pretty much stopped and kept the wads behind it from blowing through the shot column. As the load travelled down the bore, the chamois may have kept the pellets on the outside of the charge from deforming since they had no contact with the bore. Naturally, leading was not a worry. With turkey season coming up, I think I'll give this a try again.
The gun used was a lovely old single shot late flint fowler in fine shape. It had one of those locks with the "waterproof" pans and was an elegant old thing. Don't recall the maker but he knew his job alright.
 
I guess you could try, but you want a thickness of one tenth of an inch. It might be frustrating work trying to slice them, plus these corks are tapered aren't they? I think I'd either buy them or use the sheet stuff.
 
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