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I’ve never tried it for a shotgun, but years ago a friend told me you could use it in the cylinders of a revolver. I have yet to try that either.
Years ago I used to use 15g 3F and 20g corn meal in my ROA. Since I am the World Champeen Worst Pistol Shot, I quit messing with it and reverted to 30-35g 3F. I shoot just as well with it, makes reloading easier, I like the recoil, and the first shot or two silences everybody else at the commercial pistol range for a few seconds as they try to figure out whose gun just blew up.I’ve never tried it for a shotgun, but years ago a friend told me you could use it in the cylinders of a revolver. I have yet to try that either.
Steel cut oats of course should be used, not the rolled or instant.
Oh, to lament the wasting the loss of food.
Our artificers never added oats to our wrapped cartridges.
How'd it pattern?I've been doing this with sawdust between two punched cardboard disks to seal the gas and keep the shot from settling into the sawdust. It works well. I punch wads from the cardboard separating layers of cans in Fancy Feast cat food boxes. It's tough, though thin. They hold up well in firing. They're supported against the pressure by the compressed sawdust and don't need to be thick and rigid like the "nitro cards." I use the same measure for powder, sawdust, and shot. I like to assemble the load near the muzzle with a short starter stick, then ram it all down together. No problems with air pressure building between wads.
How will that cornmeal work walking for a couple hours shifting your gun around before firing a shot? Seems to me the corn meal will filter into the powder resulting in poor ignition.
How close to a square load was your cornmeal drop?
I've thought a lot about, but not tried, various granular organic substances as a shot buffer. Also, as I have for several years used a thin card overpowder wad and a cushion of sawdust under round ball loads in unmentionables and more recently in my fowler, I've thought of using this principle for a double ball load with .60" balls in a larger bore. That's a 1 1/2 ounce shot charge, heavy but less than the .69 cali er Minié balls used in Vivil War rifled muskets. (About 735 grains for those.) I'd use 1 "square load" volume of sawdust (or cornmeal, muffin mix, whatever) between the overpowder card, another between the two balls, and another over the balls just to prevent the top card from interacting with the balls at exit. I know from others' experience that loading a ball directly on top of another causes drastic flattening. I also know that if empty space is between them it will act as a dangerous obstruction, likely bursting the barrel. My thinking is that a load of compressible buffer material that will pack very firmly under pressure between the balls will not allow a collision between the balls, but as the rear ball starts to move forward it will steadily compress the buffer between the balls until the front one is moving at the same speed. Assuming enough buffer between the balls to prevent them from contacting when the buffer is maximally compressed, I will be very surprised if that doesn't work well. I'm not quite ready to hold it and shoot it for the first time, or to risk my prized fowler by "proof testing" it with such a load. I've found that whenever I have what I think is a brilliant, original idea, many others have done it long before me. (As in this thread.) Do y'all know of anyone using two balls with a cushion between them? Links, anyone? I've looked, but have only found one ball stacked on another and two patched rifle balks stacked together.When I first got on this august forum this winter, one of the questions I had was whether anyone had heard of this:
https://www.traditionalmuzzleloader.com/index.php/muffin-mix-turkey-loads
It's one of the methods I hope to investigate.
Eh. I wish I could edit typos like "Vivil War." Y'all know what I mean.I've thought a lot about, but not tried, various granular organic substances as a shot buffer. Also, as I have for several years used a thin card overpowder wad and a cushion of sawdust under round ball loads in unmentionables and more recently in my fowler, I've thought of using this principle for a double ball load with .60" balls in a larger bore. That's a 1 1/2 ounce shot charge, heavy but less than the .69 cali er Minié balls used in Vivil War rifled muskets. (About 735 grains for those.) I'd use 1 "square load" volume of sawdust (or cornmeal, muffin mix, whatever) between the overpowder card, another between the two balls, and another over the balls just to prevent the top card from interacting with the balls at exit. I know from others' experience that loading a ball directly on top of another causes drastic flattening. I also know that if empty space is between them it will act as a dangerous obstruction, likely bursting the barrel. My thinking is that a load of compressible buffer material that will pack very firmly under pressure between the balls will not allow a collision between the balls, but as the rear ball starts to move forward it will steadily compress the buffer between the balls until the front one is moving at the same speed. Assuming enough buffer between the balls to prevent them from contacting when the buffer is maximally compressed, I will be very surprised if that doesn't work well. I'm not quite ready to hold it and shoot it for the first time, or to risk my prized fowler by "proof testing" it with such a load. I've found that whenever I have what I think is a brilliant, original idea, many others have done it long before me. (As in this thread.) Do y'all know of anyone using two balls with a cushion between them? Links, anyone? I've looked, but have only found one ball stacked on another and two patched rifle balks stacked together.
How did the grits compare with cornmeal? (I tried Quaker Oats and they seemed to do a good job too). I’ve lots to learn about smoothbore shooting.I have used grits in black powder cartridges and prefer them over corn meal.
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