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AR.Hunter.308

32 Cal.
Joined
Jan 30, 2011
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Hi,

I'm new to muzzleloading -- as in, I have the gun, but I've never shot it (In fact I've never shot a muzzleloader).

I have the Cabela's Blue Ridge flintlock (made by Pedersoli). I'm surprised that it's harder to find black powder around here than I thought. About the closest I've come so far, is some stuff with Jim Shockey's name on it, made by American Pioneer powders. It's labeled as FFG and FFFG, just like black powder, and says it's a black powder "substitute", but it has no black powder in it. Is this OK to use in my gun? The manual that came with my gun doesn't have a lot of info in it, but in the manual it says blackpowder and pyrodex only, and for my gun, it's listed under black powder. If I can use it, would I measure it out just the same as black powder?
 
If you're rifle is a capper, it will work. If it's a flinter you're scrawed. I have a couple of buds who use it, but it loses potency really fast after you open the jug.

There's no substitute powder that works reliably in a flinter, but lots that work to one degree or another in cappers. You have to move heaven and earth to get black powder here. Most guys favor Pyrodex or Triple Seven over the Shockey stuff (they call it Fools Gold). Either works fine but requires more thorough cleaning to prevent rusting and pitting, no matter what the label sezz.

More and more guys here are feeling that Triple Seven is better than Pyro in our really wet climate, no matter the cost. By the time all was said and done, the last black powder I got tipped the scale very close to $30/can, so Pyro or T7 don't seem all that expensive. There are much cheaper ways to get both black and subs if you don't live on an island in Alaska!
 
The substitute powders do not work well (if at all) in the ignition of flintlocks. Often you have to ask if the store sells black powder because they don't keep it out on disply. If that doesn't work search the NMLRA website for clubs near you and contact them to get some leads for powder. Otherwise you can mail order in amounts from 5 to 50 pounds.There is a Hazmat fee to pay so the more powder you buy the less per pound it costs.
 
It's a flintlock. I didn't realize when I bought it that it would be so tough to get black powder for it.


BrownBear said:
If you're rifle is a capper, it will work. If it's a flinter you're scrawed. I have a couple of buds who use it, but it loses potency really fast after you open the jug.

There's no substitute powder that works reliably in a flinter, but lots that work to one degree or another in cappers. You have to move heaven and earth to get black powder here. Most guys favor Pyrodex or Triple Seven over the Shockey stuff (they call it Fools Gold). Either works fine but requires more thorough cleaning to prevent rusting and pitting, no matter what the label sezz.

More and more guys here are feeling that Triple Seven is better than Pyro in our really wet climate, no matter the cost. By the time all was said and done, the last black powder I got tipped the scale very close to $30/can, so Pyro or T7 don't seem all that expensive. There are much cheaper ways to get both black and subs if you don't live on an island in Alaska!
 
I've asked at Gander Mountain, Farm & Fleet, and Cabelas (surprised they didn't have it, especially since I got the rifle from there.) I did get a tip that there might be a store near here that carries it. I didn't realize it was so hard to get BP for a flintlock.

Ghettogun said:
The substitute powders do not work well (if at all) in the ignition of flintlocks. Often you have to ask if the store sells black powder because they don't keep it out on disply. If that doesn't work search the NMLRA website for clubs near you and contact them to get some leads for powder. Otherwise you can mail order in amounts from 5 to 50 pounds.There is a Hazmat fee to pay so the more powder you buy the less per pound it costs.
 
AR Hunter 308 said:
Hi,

I'm new to muzzleloading -- as in, I have the gun, but I've never shot it (In fact I've never shot a muzzleloader).

I have the Cabela's Blue Ridge flintlock (made by Pedersoli). I'm surprised that it's harder to find black powder around here than I thought. About the closest I've come so far, is some stuff with Jim Shockey's name on it, made by American Pioneer powders. It's labeled as FFG and FFFG, just like black powder, and says it's a black powder "substitute", but it has no black powder in it. Is this OK to use in my gun? The manual that came with my gun doesn't have a lot of info in it, but in the manual it says blackpowder and pyrodex only, and for my gun, it's listed under black powder. If I can use it, would I measure it out just the same as black powder?
It will work for the main charge but for your prime you will have to use real black powder such as Goex. However, in my humble opinion Jim Shlockey's tin plated fools gold is about the worst substitute out there. Next time you are at the local sporting goods store ask the manager of the gun department if they carry Goex or other real black powder, if so pick up a pound (one can) of 3f which you can use for both the main charge as well as the prime. If the person you talk to doesn't know what "Goex" is or directs you to the smokeless powders ask to see someone higher up. Never use smokeless powder in a muzzle loader.
 
I had the same problem here in Maine. I bought mine from this place

Maine Powder House

I got 5 pounds. With shipping and hazmat totaled $117 and it was on my back steps the next day. There must be a place closer to you though.
 
Welcome to the Forum. :)

A little about black powder:
The few stores that sell it must keep it locked up in a Federally approved vault.
Because of this, there have been cases of the stores employees not even knowing that they have black powder for sale.

It is always best to ask the owner or manager to find out if they have any for sale.

When you find some for sale you will probably find that it is less expensive than any of the black powder substitutes.

Here's the deal with the synthetic powders and why they work very poorly in a flintlock.

To make transporting, stocking and insurance costs low the powder companies made powders that are not classified as "explosives" like black powder is.

This was done by raising the ignition temperature and slowing the speed with which the powder burns when uncontained.
Both of these things screw it up for priming in a flintlock because it is harder for the sparks to light and once lit in the pan it burns with a fairly slow Whoosh (rather than the POOF that real black powder does).

The powder in the barrel needs a fast hot POOF to light it and it also needs to have a low ignition temperature requirement so the small amount of flame from the pan will get it burning.

If you can't find any sources for real black powder in your area you can buy it using the web.
The only problems with doing this is that most of the companies who sell it have a minimum quantity requirement. Also, regardless of the size of the order there is a $20? Hazardous Materials transportation charge to get it delivered.
This charge is in addition to the actual delivery cost.

If you do decide to order black powder I suggest you order only 3Fg powder. It will work great for priming and for the main powder charge.

If you find some real black powder in your area and it is 2Fg buy it. It is slightly slower than the 3Fg powder but it will work in the pan as well as the barrel.
2Fg powder will work far, far better than any of the substitute powders.
You do NOT need to buy any 4Fg powder which can only be used for priming.

Good luck. :)
 
I have a Goex Dist. just down the road. I would check out the Rondys in your area they often have someone selling real BP.
 
With the name AR Hunter, I'm assuming your in Arkansas. Powder Inc is in Berryville. I hear there is a muzzle loader shop in LR that sells black. If your in northeast or northcentral pm me.
 
gl1200a said:
With the name AR Hunter, I'm assuming your in Arkansas. Powder Inc is in Berryville. I hear there is a muzzle loader shop in LR that sells black. If your in northeast or northcentral pm me.

No, actually WI, I hunt and write about hunting with AR-15s. Which is the exact opposite of the guns on this forum. haha
 
Thanks, and thank you for the good info.

Zonie said:
Welcome to the Forum. :)

A little about black powder:
The few stores that sell it must keep it locked up in a Federally approved vault.
Because of this, there have been cases of the stores employees not even knowing that they have black powder for sale.

It is always best to ask the owner or manager to find out if they have any for sale.

When you find some for sale you will probably find that it is less expensive than any of the black powder substitutes.

Here's the deal with the synthetic powders and why they work very poorly in a flintlock.

To make transporting, stocking and insurance costs low the powder companies made powders that are not classified as "explosives" like black powder is.

This was done by raising the ignition temperature and slowing the speed with which the powder burns when uncontained.
Both of these things screw it up for priming in a flintlock because it is harder for the sparks to light and once lit in the pan it burns with a fairly slow Whoosh (rather than the POOF that real black powder does).

The powder in the barrel needs a fast hot POOF to light it and it also needs to have a low ignition temperature requirement so the small amount of flame from the pan will get it burning.

If you can't find any sources for real black powder in your area you can buy it using the web.
The only problems with doing this is that most of the companies who sell it have a minimum quantity requirement. Also, regardless of the size of the order there is a $20? Hazardous Materials transportation charge to get it delivered.
This charge is in addition to the actual delivery cost.

If you do decide to order black powder I suggest you order only 3Fg powder. It will work great for priming and for the main powder charge.

If you find some real black powder in your area and it is 2Fg buy it. It is slightly slower than the 3Fg powder but it will work in the pan as well as the barrel.
2Fg powder will work far, far better than any of the substitute powders.
You do NOT need to buy any 4Fg powder which can only be used for priming.

Good luck. :)
 
Yesterday I googled it and came up with powdering.com. They ship FFFG, 5 lbs, for 109.05 incl shipping.


White Rabbit said:
I had the same problem here in Maine. I bought mine from this place

Maine Powder House

I got 5 pounds. With shipping and hazmat totaled $117 and it was on my back steps the next day. There must be a place closer to you though.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
AR you are truely a newbe, so welcome to the forum. Rondys is short for rendezvous. Rendezvous is where we go to get away from the modern world and play mountain man. A rendezvous is a gathering of buckskinners who like to portray the fur trade era. A typical rendezvous will have primate camps(pre 1840) competition with muzzle loaders, knife and hawk throwing, and primative bow shoots. As well as a lot of campfire cooking and historically accurate beverages from the jugs.Rendezvous generally are not as strict as reenactments of specific events such as civil war reenactments. But as they say "A good time was had by all".The larger rendezvous have several venders selling accrouments and supplies. So if you are interested in muzzleloading a rendezvous is a good place to find both supplies and people with a lot of knowledge of black powder arms. :idunno: :idunno:
 
gl1200a said:
With the name AR Hunter, I'm assuming your in Arkansas. Powder Inc is in [strike]Berry[/strike]Clarksville. I hear there is a muzzle loader shop in LR that sells black. If your in northeast or northcentral pm me.
Fixed it for ya . . . [strike]In what part of AR are you located, AR Hunter???[/strike]Never mind.
 
hi what cal. is your blueridge? I got one in .54 I shoot goex FFg or Fg in mine and prime the pan with FFFFg. I put a white lighting touch hole liner in mine to help with lock time (time hammer drops and gun going boom) they're sold through track of the wolf .com cost is around 10 bucks. I found with mine it likes the Fg better 50 grains of it a cast .530 ball and a .015 patch pillow ticking lubed with olive oil or crisco. shoots very tight groups off the bench. well we need to know what cal. gun ya got bud. that way we can help you more. Rawhide.
 
Go to a local gun club and inquire around. Sure most if not all the guys at these clubs may be modern gun shooters, but they may know who is into shooting flintlocks in your area or where there is a ml'ing club.According to the NMLRA magazine "Muzzle Blasts" there are 4 muzzleloader clubs in Wisc. Send me an email and I can give you PH. No. to the contact people of these clubs. These guys are getting their powder from somewhere.
 

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