Correct Use of a Knapping Hammer

[M. De Land]

You don't really want a perfectly straight,sharp edge in my opinion as it is not as strong to impact as a serrated edge with the reinforcing ridges between the flake scares.
The other reason for not using a straight sharp edge is you tend to cut shelfs into your frizzen face which break up the flint cutting edge. You will get far less of this with a serrated edge because every time you re- sharpen it moves impact point not only vertically but horizontally. The old ridges become the flake scares on the new edge.
This not only lengthens flint life but also frizzen life.
One more advantage to pressure flaking is you can move the edge upward or downward without moving the flints position in the **** jaws. This in tandem with flipping the flint to bevel up or down gives you a whole bunch more flexability in frizzen contact area to wear on.

 

[coloradoclyde]

You don't really want a perfectly straight,sharp edge in my opinion as it is not as strong to impact as a serrated edge with the reinforcing ridges between the flake scares.

I agree, also a straight edge has less surface area than a serrated one ....and will spark less.

 

[OldNo7]

Really good info posted here...

Thanks all! :hatsoff:

I've got that same tool that Stumpkiller showed, but so far I've only used it to tighten the flints in the lock. I'll have to try that and the copper pressure tool too.

Tight groups!

(Or should I say "Sharp flints!")

Old No7

 

[Rifleman1776]

Much easier than trying to fracture an even edge with a hammer.

Really, dunno :idunno: about that. But, when in a match I will hammer/tap the edge to restore a sharp edge and keep shooting as there is often not enough time left during a relay to change flints.

 

[M. De Land]

I like to touch up the flint edge with a pressure flaker between relays to make sure I have an even spark production through the event.
It just takes a minute and can be done in the **** jaws.
Flip the frizzen open, pull **** to full, put a leather patch or popcycle stick under the lower flint edge for support and run a row of flakes across the front edge with your pointed pressure flaker.
The pointed tool takes a much finer flake then does a nipper and does not crush or put cracks in the edge as does a hammer.

 

[AZbpBurner]

From the earth it came.

To the earth it returns.

At the end of the useful life of my flints, I simply toss them out into the dirt at the range. There's not enough left to flake or sharpen.

 

[OldNo7]

Really good info all; again, I thank you! :thumbsup:

And then I found this online...

There may be a little "lag" before I try that method...

Old No7

 

[Rifleman1776]

From the earth it came.

To the earth it returns.

At the end of the useful life of my flints, I simply toss them out into the dirt at the range. There's not enough left to flake or sharpen.

For whatever stupid reason, I keep them. Have handfuls stashed different places in my shop.

 

[uno676]

I glad i found this old thread it answered a lot of questions for me. Lots of information. I have shot percussion a lot but this flint shooting can be trying at times especially when there is nobody at my range that knows anything about muzzleloading. Thanks for the wisdom.

 

[Rifleman1776]

this flint shooting can be trying at times especially when there is nobody at my range that knows anything about muzzleloading.

That's the best time since there is no one around to laugh every time you get a "clack" and no ignition. ;-)

 

[uno676]

That's the best time since there is no one around to laugh every time you get a "clack" and no ignition. ;-)

That is true last time at the range my flint was getting bad and kept misfiring. So I changed the flint and the first couple weren’t so good but now it’s fine. I need to make a pressure flaker

 

[Britsmoothy]

Good to see you old friend.

B.

 

[Scota4570]

I use the side of a brass or steel rod. The little hammer looks difficult to make an accurate strike. The stepped rod looks like it is going to flake straight down. With the rod you can angle back a bit to make a longer flake and a sharper, longer lasting, edge.

 

[bldtrailer]

When making a pressure flake tool what is better copper or brass ?

 

[toot]

I have used both and also the back/ spine of my patch knife with the pan empty of course and they all worked well, so you decide?

 

[M. De Land]

When making a pressure flake tool what is better copper or brass ?

Copper is best as it's softer and allows the flint to "dent" into it for a good purchase to break off a very tiny flake. This is why pressure flaking makes a flint last so much longer as it sharpens through tiny flake removal and does not make cracks in the rest of the flint as hammering or nipping often does.
It is so superior in it's control and function I cannot see why any one would continue to use a percussor (hammer).

 

[garypl]

I made a knapping tool around 30 years ago that has worked well. Use 1/4" drill rod and turn a shoulder @0.015" deep about 3/8" from the bottom. Harden the tip and put a 1" wooden knob on the top.

To use the tool, place the lip against the top edge of your flint and tap it with your flint knapping hammer. Repeat 2 or 3 times across the edge of the flint for a nice, even edge. The lip will chip the flint away from the bottom edge and give far superior results as compared to the usual method of tapping the top edge of the flint with your hammer!

Edge of lip against top of flint

 

[Grenadier1758]

I've made similar tools using brass rod. I would be leery of using a hardened steel rod on a flint above the pan. I know you have used your tool for 30 years, but I would want to use something that couldn't make sparks. Leaving the steel soft is reasonable and I have noticed a couple of turn screws to flake off the edge of my flints.

 

[Bearkiller]

I picked up one of these from DGW for $5

 

[Two Elks]

What is DGW ?