Again I would have had that barrel off in no time. There’s Boeing Shield nice and thin that after it cures leaves a film you will never know is there or LPS3 a preservative; for if you want to never remove again. Both are available on Amazon. I personally was very impressed with the boeing shield after being brought up on LPS 3 which is thick . Either will leave long term protection. You don’t have to do it now maybe in the future. This is basically about whether you got a colleran or other. If you are happy with the function of the rifle then leave it be don’t torture your self. I’m assuming the barrel is pinned?
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Could someone tell me what they think this is?
- Thread starter Boston123
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Yes, the barrel is pinned
Call colleran barrel manufacturer and ask them if they sell barrels that exhibit rough machine marks they are the experts
And with all the barrels these manufacturers have been cranking out during this COVID event it is possible that the barrel missed a step in manufacturing. So I would ask
I would think that 25 strokes is a minimal warm up exercise before the 150 to 200 strokes needed to have an effect on the spots in your barrel and the milling marks.
Even if you have your honing rod chucked up in a hand drill, 50 passes through the targeted area won't hurt the bore and might be needed to take out the rust spots and mill marks.
Most Definitely requires a lot of time and if you watch the dualest den video I think he’s commented he spent well over an hour and his barrel didn’t have machine marks. I would think taking the barrel off the stock which should be no big deal the best way to hone it muzzle to breach.
Sam squanch
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That sounds fishy. I’d carefully remove the barrel and look for the colerian stamp….
Sam squanch
69 Cal.
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That sounds fishy. I’d carefully remove the barrel and look for the colerian stamp….
Maybe he bedded the barrel; do flintlock builders do that. Even still like you say I’d carefully remove the barrel and see what is there could be some cash
If you are new to muzzleloading and don't have all the tools such as screwdrivers that precisely fit in the slots or pin punches that match the pins in your stock, it is very easy to split out the wood in your stock as you take the gun apart or put it back together. I am sure that is the reason for the cautionary advisory that the builder provided. Sometimes, you just have to remove the barrel from the stock. At this time, I don't think that is necessary. You should have a secure vise with padded jaws to hold the gun and a rest on the bench to locate the barrel before you do a lot of the bore polishing.
Advising you to never remove the barrel from the stock is absurd! Its not a big deal, unless they did something equally absurd enough to make that recommendation in the first place.
Robby
Robby
W
i agree 100 percent if that’s a Colleran barrel I’ll eat my hat. If it is they screwed up in the manufacture process. Then I send it back to the builder and tell him to replace it
Good man I’m thinking we all spent enough on this post no disrespect to the original poster clearly something is not right hence he raised a valid question that turns out to be more than his original concern. This gent could be my brother who is very hard to convince too. You shell out a lot of money and you want to believe I get that.
Jayhawkdan
36 Cl.
My thoughts are to do just what you are doing by going to that video by Mike. He's forgotten more about this sort of thing than most of us know,, and especially me!! I thought from the first that this is just a stain in a smooth bore that is being retained because the barrel is so rough, probably from machining. The first thing to do is remove those machining marks and then see what you have! My thought!!
Jayhawkdan
36 Cl.
Boston, you're getting some real savvy advice that you should inform the builder of your gun about both the stain and the machine/mill marks. The mill marks are definitely a sign of a faulty barrel. I would expect the builder to solve this problem for you, and especially since he/she/it asked you "please" not to remove the barrel. That statement raises a lot of questions in my mind, the first one being "Why?"
Sam squanch
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Are you sure someone didn’t build this with an Indian musket barrel? A colerain barrel should be very well finished.
satwel
40 Cal.
No, it is not suitable for a muzzleloading barrel, only breechloaders. The brass bristles are designed to be pushed only. When you push this type of brush down to the breech and then reverse it to pull it out, the bristles can jamb it fast or damage the bore. Instead use OOOO steel wool on a cleaning jag just as you would a piece of tow.
Alright, I wrapped some #0000 steel wool around my cleaning jag, squirted some Barricade on the mess, and ran it up and down about 40-50 times. I can no longer see the "rust" with my naked eyes, and the bore itself is much shinier now.
As for the tool-marks and under-the-barrel stuff, there is a gunsmith that lives literally 5 minutes away from me. About - The Village Gunsmith, North Dartmouth MA
I'll give him a call tomorrow, see what he thinks and says.
Otherwise.... so long as it is safe to shoot, I am comfortable with it. I have already put 20 or so 0.600 roundballs downrange with it, and I still have both my hands and eyes. Any actual work can wait until after December, I suppose...
As for the tool-marks and under-the-barrel stuff, there is a gunsmith that lives literally 5 minutes away from me. About - The Village Gunsmith, North Dartmouth MA
I'll give him a call tomorrow, see what he thinks and says.
Otherwise.... so long as it is safe to shoot, I am comfortable with it. I have already put 20 or so 0.600 roundballs downrange with it, and I still have both my hands and eyes. Any actual work can wait until after December, I suppose...
Or worse a seam running lengthwise.Maybe he bedded the barrel; do flintlock builders do that. Even still like you say I’d carefully remove the barrel and see what is there could be some cash
