cover up inletting flaws

[jp grabski]

on a maple stock what would best be used to fill in a small gap between stock and tang

 

[ehoff]

The best material is a sliver of maple (this is why you save all your scraps). Split/cut off a sliver of maple (try to match the grain) and glue it into place with yellow carpenters glue. Clamp if possible (spring clamps work well, just pad the jaws) and clean up any ooze out. You may need to re-inet the part just go slow and use sharp tools. When you stain the repair will just about disappear.

 

[Stophel]

That's it exactly. I use the Titebond II or III glue (water repellent and waterproof, respectively). I avoid epoxy like the plague.

Fit it well, and clamp it snugly.

 

[DanChamberlain]

Or add metal to the tang with a few beads of weld, dress with a file and re-inlet.

Dan

 

[ricklandes]

You may want to consider glass bedding the area. Color can be matched for many finishes. Also, how large is the gap???

 

[bioprof]

If the gap is behind the tang, you should probably leave it there. There is supposed to be a gap, otherwise when you fire the gun the recoil can split the stock. This has happened on many, many originals.

 

[Walks with fire]

I am a big fan of glass bedding the whole barrel and tang of any rifle. If one were to do it before it was stained you would have a nice clean finish to your rifle. With this method one would not need to be nearly as fussy when inletting. You do need that small gap at the end of the tang though. Glass bedding is wonderful stuff.

 

[longcruise]

You do need that small gap at the end of the tang though.

I would add that lack of clearance around the tang bolt can result in a split also. Happened on two of my factory guns, 1 TC and one GPR. Since the GPR was a kit, I get credit for that one.

 

[Tumblernotch]

on a maple stock what would best be used to fill in a small gap between stock and tang

The wood flour from your filing process mixed with Gorilla Glue molded into the gap works good and will take stain. If the finish is light it may show up, but if dark it will blend in. It works even better with walnut.

 

[peterbh]

Cracks can be defeated. One cause is gaps that allow the metal to slap against the wood time after time causing cracks. Changes in moisture content can also cause cracks. Oil penetration especially from penetrating oils like WD-40 can soften wood and cause cracks. Boxlocks tend to crack at the upper and lower tangs. Sidelocks tend to crack behind the lock plate. You can do away with this cracking by undercutting the wood/metal interface and glass bedding. If your wood is below the metal, you can add finish to raise the level or hot steam the area to raise the wood grain and add cyanoacrylic glue to fill the pores and keep the level higher.