Like I've said multiple times in both threads, I only round one end, and you're looking at the non-rounded end. That end never touched wood. Don't judge what you can't see.
Cracked Stock Repair
- Thread starter wiscoaster
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Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Spinach. It worked for Popeye.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Do you actually want any help? People are trying to help but you continue to ignore ALL advice.
S.Kenton
58 Cal.
I’m showing BOTH ends and both ends are jagged..click on the pic
Focus your eyeballs on the other end of the pic copied and posted and you'll see it's tapered.It's pretty obvious to anyone with eyeballs that those pins are as square as can be on the ends.
From what I can see, and I may be wrong, but what I see from the blown-up picture is the one end is rounded, looks like a light reflection giving jagged look
Arguing about the pins doesn't fix the problem, and going forward even taking all advice to round both ends doesn't fix it either, so you guys' posts about pins are absolutely useless to me here and now.
And so are non-helpful comments like these. Wasting my time doesn't get it fixed, either.
Top side of stock pin edge is well rounded, I agree about not doing any repairs with barrel out. Should be Installed when gluing. Other than nose cap, the only other thing I can think of to help reinforce so little wood is with a pin and with so much pin obsession going on in this thread, am afraid to suggest it.
64Springer
75 Cal.
I agree.
It looks like both ends were 90% cut through with a hacksaw and then snapped off using pliers.
Leaving jagged ends.
My mock-up pins look like this. No chance of catching on wood or tenons.
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S.Kenton
58 Cal.
Yes, I always round mine. I purchased a “ Fowler” from a fella, it was built by a very well known builder, infamous builder actually. Anyhow, it had jagged pins, I had to remove the barrel once when I was reshaping the stock, I was very careful while pushing out the pins… even as careful as I was, the pin still grabbed a pice of wood and chipped it out. I fixed the chip and rounded both sides of each pin. That will never ever happen again on that Fowler. I’ve also seen jagged pins do much more damage to a rifle, such as cracking the stock while being driven in when the barrel isn’t installed. I’ve seen that instance a few times actually, that’s what I thought had happened to the O.P.s SMR. I could I be wrong I guess, it wouldn’t be the first time.
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No. Barrel hasn't been out since pinning the tenons. Log #21; page 12 (on my browser).
Y'all know, it doesn't matter how it happened. He just wants advice on the best way to fix it. Let's keep to the point of the OP's original question. Semper Fi.
S.Kenton
58 Cal.
I agree, however he will need to know how it happened as to not repeat after it’s glued.
I'd use Titebond in that crack, use the bag idea from Oldwood and smear glue into the crack, make sure you get it in the crack thoroughly. Put the barrel back in with the bag on it, wiping off excess glue in the channel first, tape around the whole affair. If the bag gets glued to the channel should be easy to clean it out or maybe you could smear some release agent on it just to help, Titebond allows stains.
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Please tell us how you managed to crack the stock.
It would certainly be nice to learn from your mishap, so that anyone reading your thread could protect their rifle from the same situation.
It would certainly be nice to learn from your mishap, so that anyone reading your thread could protect their rifle from the same situation.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Wasting my time giving advice that is ignored doesn't help either.
appalichian hunter
75 Cal.
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Don't know if this would be possible after gluing it perhaps a one layer of fiberglass material over top of the crack, in the barrel channel, just thinking outside the box here. Actually, find this thread helpful, as I am thinking of a Kibler build in the near future, learning a lot as to what to do and not what to do. Once home from Wyoming in October will spend time digesting Jims videos and referencing posts such as this, before I make the jump. Always been one to spend more time studying and re-searching a project before doing it especially with a rifle like these kits.
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I do not have the magic undo button for you. But I will say some of the ideas given are good. Tite Bond III would be a great glue to use as all ready stated. It's slow drying and that is what you want. Looking at picture 216 I would only glue the area back to the first pin, as not to get a lot of glue in that pocket. Because it will need to be cleaned up after taking barrel out. As stated carefully pry apart wide several times letting glue have a chance to really squash in and soak into the wood. Have the barrel ready with release agent, or something like wax paper from the kitchen (if it is thin enough). Do not come back saying you can't get the barrel out. Have a way all ready figure out of how to clamp or wrap tight that area. Think it out and make a onetime fix. Be sure and remove anything that might get glued in place beforehand. And then let it sit at least 24-48 hrs. Thats right no hair dryer to speed things up.
64Springer
75 Cal.
Very well said.
Planning it out is key.
Doing several dry runs is a good idea too.
Saves from getting panicked as you work through the real assembly.
