the stocks cracked on the renegade i have read they do that alot it on the other side of the hammer i thought of shooting some wood glue in the crack and drilling small holes to pin it any ideas please i got the gun for 50 bulls and a 50 cal barrel too needs some work but the fun part
Cracked Stock
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Works good . Then afterwords you can repair it with raw hide wras or wraped copper wire
smooth said:
Instead of using wood glue to fill the crack, use quality CA (Super Glue) thin glue, it will weep into the crack where wood glue will not.
I use brass pins instead of wood dowels and fill the hole with CA glue before putting the brass pins in. Round off the end of the brass pins before putting them into the stock, they go in much easier. I cut the pins a touch short and fill the hole with wood putty to match the stock.
I also use a hand drill to drill the holes go slowly.
It does work.
Use Elmers Carpenter Glue or Tite bond.
I have little trust in the super glues. If the crack can opened slightly and glue worked in and then clamped or wrapped with elastic bands like surgical tubing it will hold and the other wood will break before the glue joint.
These glues have a fast set time and will grab in a short time so get the glue application done in a couple of minutes. If the crack can be reached from a hidden area then holes can drilled and the glue forces in with a hypodermic. Squeeze the wood back together and let the glue set for a few hours under pressure.
If epoxy is used its needs to be an epoxy that is geared for wood such as those used for wooden boat repair or Brownell's Acra-Glas.
Wax the exterior where bonding is not wanted just get no wax in the area to be bonded.
Dan
I have little trust in the super glues. If the crack can opened slightly and glue worked in and then clamped or wrapped with elastic bands like surgical tubing it will hold and the other wood will break before the glue joint.
These glues have a fast set time and will grab in a short time so get the glue application done in a couple of minutes. If the crack can be reached from a hidden area then holes can drilled and the glue forces in with a hypodermic. Squeeze the wood back together and let the glue set for a few hours under pressure.
If epoxy is used its needs to be an epoxy that is geared for wood such as those used for wooden boat repair or Brownell's Acra-Glas.
Wax the exterior where bonding is not wanted just get no wax in the area to be bonded.
Dan
It needs to be epoxy bedded. Use pins coated in epoxy first. Then epoxy bed the tang. Then epoxy bed the barrel up to the barrel and including the lug. It will not do it again after this. There is stress in the stock. that was why it cracked. When you bed it, wrap the stock and barrel with rubber bands to hold them together. Do NOT use bolts or the shims. Adjust the stock first before bedding if it needs it. You want a stress free job.
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Got the tee shirt on the Renegade crack experience.
The first thing to do when a Renegade cracks on the side opposite the hammer is to determine where the stress that caused the crack is being introduced.
Try slowly putting the barrel into position and pulling it back up while watching the crack.
If the camming of barrel and hooked breech into position is introducing the stress then the crack can be seen to be opening.
The tang and hook are best reworked before fixing the crack because watching the crack is your stress detector.
Bedding the tang into the position needed is the next step. A good epoxy works very well for this. Be sure and protect the opening and hook space with shaped candle wax.
Then fix the crack. Camming it open to help introduce the adhesive can still be done by putting some folded paper under the barrel. If the crack follows the grain of the wood diagonally towards the lock then to inject superglue, epoxy or whatever best suits the geometry, the hole for the lock screw can be protected by inserting a piece of tight fitting plastic tubing. Polystyrene tubing commonly available at hobby shops is the easiest to drill back out after the the adhesive(s) cure.
To bind the area (compression of the crack) I use lots of good twine, technique tried out ahead of time before gluing.
Best of luck.
The first thing to do when a Renegade cracks on the side opposite the hammer is to determine where the stress that caused the crack is being introduced.
Try slowly putting the barrel into position and pulling it back up while watching the crack.
If the camming of barrel and hooked breech into position is introducing the stress then the crack can be seen to be opening.
The tang and hook are best reworked before fixing the crack because watching the crack is your stress detector.
Bedding the tang into the position needed is the next step. A good epoxy works very well for this. Be sure and protect the opening and hook space with shaped candle wax.
Then fix the crack. Camming it open to help introduce the adhesive can still be done by putting some folded paper under the barrel. If the crack follows the grain of the wood diagonally towards the lock then to inject superglue, epoxy or whatever best suits the geometry, the hole for the lock screw can be protected by inserting a piece of tight fitting plastic tubing. Polystyrene tubing commonly available at hobby shops is the easiest to drill back out after the the adhesive(s) cure.
To bind the area (compression of the crack) I use lots of good twine, technique tried out ahead of time before gluing.
Best of luck.
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By the way, use denatured alcohol to degrease the areas to be bonded. Sluice the crack well to carry away oils and let it dry back out a couple of days.
I have repaired several broken wrists, as well as several stocks broken at the lock mortise. How folks broke a musket stock at the wrist I don't know...
Cracking through the lock area seems to be from the manufacturerc removing too much internal wood.
Anyway..., I use Brownell's bedding compound. I have used wooden pins set at a 90° angle to the crack. I have also used a flathead wood screw installed into a counter sunk hole from beneath the barrel tang down into the wrist to pull the wood together on a wrist break.
For cracks and breaks at the lock mortise I have used bedding compound, and in one case of chronic breakage, I added wood and bedding compound to the hole for the seer lever inside the lock mortise. For some reason, the machined hole for the seer in that particular Pedersoli Bess was deeper than normal, and the breaks always went through that spot. So.., I took a hardwood disk from the local craft store, reduced its diameter and glued it to the inside of the musket while glueing the rest of the break. I then shortened the seer lever on the lock by a few hundreds of an inch, so it wouldn't bind on the repair piece. Stock hasn't had any problems for the past five years, and is going strong.
LD
Cracking through the lock area seems to be from the manufacturerc removing too much internal wood.
Anyway..., I use Brownell's bedding compound. I have used wooden pins set at a 90° angle to the crack. I have also used a flathead wood screw installed into a counter sunk hole from beneath the barrel tang down into the wrist to pull the wood together on a wrist break.
For cracks and breaks at the lock mortise I have used bedding compound, and in one case of chronic breakage, I added wood and bedding compound to the hole for the seer lever inside the lock mortise. For some reason, the machined hole for the seer in that particular Pedersoli Bess was deeper than normal, and the breaks always went through that spot. So.., I took a hardwood disk from the local craft store, reduced its diameter and glued it to the inside of the musket while glueing the rest of the break. I then shortened the seer lever on the lock by a few hundreds of an inch, so it wouldn't bind on the repair piece. Stock hasn't had any problems for the past five years, and is going strong.
LD
Reading thru these posts I am reminded of the old saying that there is more than one way to skin a cat! I have repaired a few stocks and a lot of furniture.
If you can open the crack a little then I would go with a good grade of epoxy. If not the thin superglues really do wick their way thru and throughout the crack. After applying it I would wrap it tightly with thin strips of a bike tube.
It wont take long to cure but I would give a deep area at least a day. Then pin it as recommended. Many old repairs use brass rod. My 2 cents!
Geo. T.
If you can open the crack a little then I would go with a good grade of epoxy. If not the thin superglues really do wick their way thru and throughout the crack. After applying it I would wrap it tightly with thin strips of a bike tube.
It wont take long to cure but I would give a deep area at least a day. Then pin it as recommended. Many old repairs use brass rod. My 2 cents!
Geo. T.
smooth said:
That is exactly how I would do it.
I like Titebond I or II but never :nono: :shake: III or CA or epoxy or Gorilla.
For pins, I like brazing rod. The rod can be run through a threading die to give it more grip to the glue and wood.
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