Crisco

[coloradoclyde]

All except for about the last month.....It has been sitting in a bucket in the shed..
Still noteworthy I think....

It got rained on and everything.....Rain doesn't seem to affect Crisco much.....There are still drippings from my lamp on the table...

The file has been outside so long that the corncob handle I made for it has turned to mush.

 

[George]

Aluminum file, by any chance? :haha:

Spence

 

[coloradoclyde]

Chinese......and very brittle...

 

[necchi]

Well I ain't too sure about it's "rust removal" properties,, but light brown flash rust that get's covered with oil won't show light brown anymore,, at least until it's back down to bare oil-free metal again.
Seein's how most of the posts above say Crisco get's messy when it get's hot out,, I'm guessing it has a pretty high viscosity,, so it ain't gonna drip off,, it'll most likely smear around instead and make everything messy.
Good observation clyde,, but I think I'll leave my Crisco in the fridge and use it for cookin,, then regular gun oil on the metal parts I don't want rusty

 

[coloradoclyde]

Oh Yea...It's messy....

 

[Billnpatti]

Most of those guns that survive do so not only because of the oils or greases used in their preservation but largely upon the way they were stored. The oils and greases used in days of yore did, in fact, have the ability to prevent rust and corrosion but this was by the mechanical process of oxygen exclusion. The oils and greases simply sealed out oxygen from the metal surfaces. This is effective only so long as the occlusive surface is not compromised. As long as the grease or oil coating remains intact, the surface is protected. With modern oils and greases that contain a rust inhibitor the oxygen is kept away from the metal by two processes. Some chemical inhibitors bond with the metal's surface molecules to form a rust inhibiting coating that is far more durable than just the grease or oil alone. Others bond directly with the oxygen molecule preventing it from bonding with the metal. This is in addition to the oxygen exclusion properties of the grease or oil alone. The combination is more of a belt and suspenders. This is not to question any efficacy the oils and greases of old may have possessed but it is to point out that the modern oils and greases that contain a chemical rust inhibitor and are far more efficacious with regard to oxygen exclusion and rust prevention.

 

[Golfswithwolves]

A bit of beeswax combined with Crisco makes a good lube. I use a dab under the ball in cap and ball revolvers (just over a felt wad) and it works well.

 

[Walker357]

If you were using Crisco for patch lube and poured a little salt and pepper down the bore, would squirrels be ready for the skillet when you hit them?

 

[nhmoose]

Nope, I prefer to use lard in fact Morrell Snow Cap Lard. Much tastier!!! :rotf:

 

[Golfswithwolves]

If you were using Crisco for patch lube and poured a little salt and pepper down the bore, would squirrels be ready for the skillet when you hit them?

I think so, but I reckon I'd avoid the salt anyway for less chance of rust!

 

[good ole boy]

I never wanted to use Crisco cause I thought it contains sodium.

 

[Skychief]

I use lard-based lube for rust prevention on my guns, never specifically did that with Crisco. Your file would seem to indicate Crisco would be good for that, but it's still messy. I wonder if a mix of beeswax and Crisco would work the same as with lard, stiffen it up, raise the melding point.

Get back to us in 6 months and let us know how it worked on your guns. I'm too well pleased with my lard to be seduced by an upstart impostor. :haha:

Spence

Hey Spence, you mention using a lard-based lube for rust prevention on your guns. Would you mind describing in more detail what has worked so well for you?

I'm ready for a change.

Thanks and all the , Skychief.

 

[George]

i mix salt-free lard and beeswax for patch lube, usually make two batches, one for hot weather, one for cold. I have also tried adding some olive oil to adjust the consistency, but that's not a regular thing.

Whatever kind I have, I use it for dressing my guns. I spritz a little WD-40 in the breech after washing the bore with plain water and swabbing it dry, then run a patch or swab with lube to thinly coat the bore. I also rub the same over the exterior of the gun, a very thin coat, all metal and wood parts. I've been very happy with the results for a lot of years.

Spence

 

[Skychief]

Thank you Spence for the speedy reply.

May I ask, how does one know that the lard is salt free? Is the lard from rendered pork fat? Where could a guy obtain some, outside of rendering his own?

Sure appreciate your help, Skychief. :bow:

 

[Black Hand]

Thank you Spence for the speedy reply.

May I ask, how does one know that the lard is salt free? Is the lard from rendered pork fat? Where could a guy obtain some, outside of rendering his own?

Sure appreciate your help, Skychief. :bow:

Why would there be salt in lard?
Lard can be purchased by the brick or tub from your local grocery store.

 

[George]

Yeah, I just buy a tub of the cheapest available.

Spence

 

[coloradoclyde]

I think the key ingredient is beeswax.....I've never seen a rusty bee....

 

[Skychief]

Thanks. Pork lard then? Not vegetable shortening (Crisco). Right? :hmm:

Much appreciated.

 

[George]

My experience with making lube is all with pork lard. I used Crisco as a straight patch lube, only, for several years, but never tried it with beeswax,

Spence

 

[Skychief]

I have pork lard in hand now. If I've not worn out my welcome, could you give me an idea of ratio of lard to beeswax?

Thanks for the nudges toward the more traditional my friend. I'm on my way. :thumbsup:

Best regards, Skychief