Crisco

[Black Hand]

Slowly add beeswax until you get the consistency you desire - the ratio will depend on local conditions. You could also use straight lard, which would work just fine.

 

[Redstick Lee]

as a musket / rifle patch lube a 1-1 liquified and re solidified mix works well.
for BP revolver "lube pills" the best i've found is 60% wax to 40% oil/lard.

 

[Skychief]

Thanks Black Hand and Redstick Lee.

I'm hoping that Spence will share the mix he would recommend, especially for bore protection (if different than his patch lube). For one reason, we live in comparable climates not to mention that he's likely forgot more about this hobby that many of us will ever know.

Best regards, Skychief

 

[coloradoclyde]

Have you tried Stumpy's lubes



Stumpy's Moose Juice

A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated if available) 16 oz.

I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry laid flat on wax paper in between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.


Stumpy's Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.



I also have the Leigh Valley lube patent if you're interested.

 

[George]

Not complicated, and generally as posted above. I fiddle with the ratios, usually about 40-60 lard-beeswax, but sometimes as much as 25-75 lard-beeswax. I go a little heavier on the wax during the summer to stiffen it up, raise the melting point and keep down the mess. I just play it by ear.

It's not unusual for me to stick the batch in the fridge to set up, test it at room temperature and decide to melt again and add either a little more lard or beeswax.

I've used this mix to treat my guns inside and out, as discussed above, but it's good for lots of things. I have dipped patch strips in it while melted, squeezed out all excess to make pre-lubed patches to cut at the muzzle, kept a small tin in my shot bag and rubbed a patch on it for each shot, melted it and rolled cushion wads in it, squeezed out the excess for pre-lubed wads, laid a bead of it in the joint between stock and barrel in front of the lock to prevent water running into the pan, treated my cow's knee with it for a nice flexible waterproof cover for the losk....and things I've forgotten. :grin:

It's fun, and satisfying for me to use, because I know the old boys used natural lubes like this... it's what they had.

Spence

 

[Black Hand]

However, let's remember that beeswax may not have been commonly available (some natives called bees white-man's flies)...

 

[Skychief]

....and things I've forgotten.

Spence

See. I told you guys! :blah:

Thanks Spence for all the details. I'm going down your road. :thumbsup:

 

[Skychief]

Clyde, thanks and yes I've tried this. I'm sure it works great but I'm looking for more traditional and less complicated. Besides, I don't get along well with Murphy's Oil Soap.....STICKY!

Best regards, Skychief

 

[George]

I didn't mean to imply that beeswax was used to make lube in the day, only that my ingredients were natural, as were their's.

Push come to shove, though, they could have done it, and early on:

THE VIRGINIA GAZETTE
November 24, 1738
November 22. Sloop Molly, of Virginia, Thomas Wilson, Master, for Madeira, with 2014 Bushels of Wheat , 230 Bushels of Corn , 107 Bushels of Bonavest , 2 Hogsheads and 2 Barrels of Bees Wax , 4 Barrels of Flour, and 400 Hogshead Staves.

THE VIRGINIA GAZETTE
July 20, 1739
July 18. Sloop Thomas and Tryal, of North Carolina, John Nelson, Master, from North-Carolina, with 146 Barrels of Tar, 12 Barrels of Turpentine, 4 Barrels of Rice, 60 Barrels of Pork, 2 Barrels of Whale Oyl, 1 Barrels of Tallow, 1000 lbs. of Bees Wax, and Myrtle Wax, 50 lbs. of raw and drest Deer Skins, 50 lbs. of Hides, a Small parcel of Furs, a Bag of Feathers, 150 lbs. of Butter and Cheese, 45 pair of Mill-Stones, 20 Bushels of Pease, and 2 Barrels of Beef .

Spence

 

[coloradoclyde]

I'm sure it works great but I'm looking for more traditional and less complicated.

In that case, lard and beeswax or olive oil and beeswax. The latter is my preference, I don't like the smell of lard.

Lanolin also known as "wool wax" or "wool grease" would also be period correct and is an excellent rust preventative and lubricant..

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Works well as a quick snack when spread on bread and seasoned with salt and pepper, too.

 

[coloradoclyde]

What!.....You butter your bread with Crisco?.... :shocked2:

Pardon me while I :barf:

 

[Kansas Jake]

Your nose is better than mine. I don’t think lard has much odor unless it has turned rancid. Of course most of us have things we don’t like the smell of for one reason or another.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Slowly add beeswax until you get the consistency you desire - the ratio will depend on local conditions. You could also use straight lard, which would work just fine.

Right on advice. I would only add, make a batch keeping note of proportions used. Let cool. If too soft remelt and add more beeswax. If too hard, more oil. My current lubes are beeswax/whale oil and beeswax/peanut oil. I pour the mix into small plastic storage containers. When needed I take out the whole cake and rub over a large piece of newly purchased, and washed ticking. Then I cut into manageable sizes, fold lubed sides together and store in plastic zip lock baggies.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

It's a part of my German heritage. Lard is preferred but Crisco makes a good substitute as well.

 

[coloradoclyde]

My nose is way better than average....People are always amazed at what I can smell. I can smell both lard and Crisco as well as olive oil, and distinguish between them.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

While we're on smells, lamb's tallow smells the best of them all.

That reminds me, I need to get another container of lamb's tallow to make some lube for the felt wads for my new Remington NMA.

 

[Skychief]

To all, I am grabbing my gear and some freshly made lard/beeswax "muffins" and do as they old boys did.

I'm planning to use the lube on my patches as well as on my bore and the rest of my rifle at the end of the day.

Here's to hoping for a good experience. I'll be thrilled to see good results and leave more of the modern crutches behind me. :thumbsup:

Best regards, Skychief

 

[azmntman]

Yer not driving I trust?

 

[Black Hand]

To all, I am grabbing my gear and some freshly made lard/beeswax "muffins" and do as they old boys did.

In my opinion, if it retains a muffin shape, you have too much beeswax. Lube should be creamy, not stiff...