Crockett — kit or factory?

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putnro01

Pilgrim
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I don't know. Seems lots of guys expect a custom quality rifle when they get some factory guns. The fit & finish are usually good but again, not up to custom. The hammers normally have a bit of "wiggle" which is irrelevant; it still works as it's supposed to. Whether to get a finished rifle or a kit depends on ones desire to build and the difference in price; not the overall adequacy of the rifle. Mine was exceptionally accurate and I used it for many years.
 
If you're handy with tools, and familiar with wood working, and not in a hurry, then a kit will give you more satisfaction in the end, and give you a rudimentary education in to what some of the tasks in gun building are all about. I'm not familiar with the Crockett kit, but most (like the CVA) are 30-40 hour projects with the right tools. Some minor fitting and inletting is usually required, as well as sanding and finishing. One thing that almost ALL factory guns have on them however, is too much wood to be either svelte, or historically accurate (such as they can be). The kits will similarly have too much wood on them. If you're after something in the end that is closer to HC/PC, then no question, go with the kit. Just be aware of what you're committing to on the front end, and above all, be honest and ask yourself if you're ready to make the commitment. If you start with a finished gun and then modify it, you're really starting with a kit and stripping and re-doing a lot of what was already done for you. By the time you buy the chemicals, sand paper, finishes, etc, you'll probably have about the same amount of money in the kit as the factory gun though.

If you're mostly after having a gun to shoot, in something of a hurry, and aren't that interested in the building process, then go with a finished piece, even though it won't be as good of an end product as you could make from the kit, and you won't get the education the build provides.

So the final answer really depends more on you and what you're looking for than it does the general premise of the original question.

It's kind of like an investor asking what kind of an investment they should make. The answer is, it depends on...
 
Built mine from a kit. I'd advise you do too. You'll have a nicer rifle in the end, as long as you have the basic skills.

As mentioned already the rifles have too much wood. By pinching the butt of my kit stock between my thumb and first finger, and running them the length of the butt stock, I could easily feel the wood bulgeed out in the middle. I rasped and scraped until the extra wood was gone. I repeated this process on other parts of the stock and finally ended up with a fairly trim and nicely shaped stock. I didn't check before and after weight, but I'm guessing I took 4 oz off the stock. That's not a whole lot, but it was enough to make a big difference between having just a chunky clunky factory stock and something that looks a little more custom.

The lock was a different issue I didn't have to do anything to get the lock plate and internals to go into the notice, but the hammer was way out of wack. The nose of the hammer would only hit air. It took work to get it to hit the nipple. I'm still not happy with it. It will take more work to get it just right.

I still haven't browned the steel. I think the barrel will need draw filing, as the flats don't feel quite flat to me.

With work, mostly refining things, you can get a nice rifle out of a kit. It will clearly look better that a fully assembled rifle.

I'm thinking of in letting a small cap box into mine.
 
Thanks for the replies.
I'm not too worried about the building aspect. Main concern is with the bolt needing heat and bending to fit. Which sounds like it could be an issue based on the previous post.

I suspect it's still worth the trouble.
 
Too many people seem to think they can just throw the pieces together and end up with a good gun.

When things like the hammer lining up with the nipple happen they resort to some pretty serious stuff like bending the hammer that often is not required.

The bottom of the mortise which the lock sets in determines the position of the hammer from side to side and often, just a little material removed from the bottom of the pocket on the upper or lower surfaces will allow the lockplate to tilt slightly and fix the problem without bending anything.

These same people usually sand the wood adjacent to the metal parts at a severe taper so it matches the metal.
Doing this looks like hell and the sad part is, if they removed the wood so it would blend in with the stock surface 6-10 inches away from the joint it would look fine.
(The stocks always have extra wood on all of the surfaces so the entire thing needs to be sanded to reduce its size and bulkiness.)

They also often buy some sort of oil based colored varnish and paint it onto their gun.
This also looks like what it is. A brush painted gun. AARGGGH.

Take your time. Ask questions here on the forum before doing anything you are unsure of and, did I say, take your time?
Your gun will turn out better than the factory made ones if you do.
 
too bad you aren't closer, I have a new in the box factory one I would sell for what they want for a kit. I think the piece of wood, factory fit and finish is very nice.
 
Joe P said:
Main concern is with the bolt needing heat and bending to fit.

What!!!.... :shocked2: :shocked2: ???

Here's my advice.....
Unless you really want to put your own kit together, or you are an experienced builder, wanting to "improve" upon what is....

I would get the factory assembled gun...This way there are no mistakes or wasted money and you can start shooting right away.... :2
 
A comment I've come across regarding the hammer is they need heating and bending for proper function (from reviews on Midway's page and other forums).

Zonie addressed this in a previous post (wood removal).
 
If you have never built a gun this is a good learning tool. You may end up with a case of the uglies,but that's ok a lot of old guns had the uglies. It does give you a chance to make s very nice looking piece and it's going to be yours. A little propain tour has is all you need for bending, and it's not hard.
Should you have a level of skill other companies make s kit that can be more hc. However it's s learning curve. I built my first gun in 1977, after several kits, I'm building a pistol right now, still trying to get it right.
 
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