Crockett rifle breach-fix-

[HomeinDixie]

My new crocket rifle locked a jag in the breach a few days ago. I had to pull the breach plug to free the ramrod and jag with patch. The culprit was a free space between the barrel and the face of the breach plug that let the cleaning patch bunch up around the neck of the jag on the back stroke.

This evening I pulled the breach plug again, took the dial calipers to the problem and devised a plan! It seems my gap was roughly .040 inch. The inside diameter of the breach plug was .322 so the jag goes very far down into the breach plug, and the outside diameter of the threads was 0.52 inch. I made a quick trip to the hardware store and found that the washer that would need the least amount of grinding and filing was a standard 7mm flat washer. After returning home I ground the OD of the washer to clear the threads in the barrel, opened the ID of the washer hole to .322 and filled the thickness to just over the .040 thickness. I then reinstalled the breach plug with a perfect fit and alighment. Now patches don't bunch up in the breach area of the stroke. This may be more trouble than any of the other crockett owners are willing to go through, but it was worth it for me. :hmm: This also means there is not a big void there to trap powder residue anymore.

Afew observations.

After taking this rifle apart, I know why the rifle wouldn't group worth a darn with low powder loads. there is at least 1/2 inch of space at the breach of the barrel that must be filled with powder. If it isn't, you will, more likley than not, be shooting the ball down the barrel with a sloppy patch to say the least, because the PRB can be pushed into the smooth breach area. I may expermient with some kind of filler (felt wad) to keep the PRB in the rifling.

While I was at it. I cut the back of the snail even where the nipple sits. I found that it is very hard to get a nipple wrench in there, and I wanted to install a flash cup. I ground and filled the area down, pollished it on the pollishing wheel and reblued. Looks like it was made that way and I hope the flash cup will contain some of the burning action of the caps firing. This rifle has taken some tinkering to get it to shoot like I expect, but the initial range trip looks promsing indeed!

 

[CoyoteJoe]

Thanks for the update. I haven't yet decided what to do with mine but your solution sounds like a good option. I don't believe the powder chamber in my rifle is as large as yours, a .22 bore brush feels like a good fit but a bore size powder chamber makes more sense. How hard was it to pull the plug? I know some factory installed plugs are almost impossible to remove. :hmm:

 

[HomeinDixie]

The extra large powder chamber is the reason you need fairly large charges to keep the ball in the riflings.
Removing the plug took a fair amount of force but after it began to back out it was fairly easy. It looks like it was filled with some kind of pipe seal that hardens with time. I cleaned the threads and used teflon tape to replace the plug.

 

[Zonie]

If the threads have some sort of sealent in them, some moderate heat from a propane torch will soften it making the plug easier to remove.

Zonie

 

[harryo]

After taking this rifle apart, I know why the rifle wouldn't group worth a darn with low powder loads. there is at least 1/2 inch of space at the breach of the barrel that must be filled with powder. If it isn't, you will, more likley than not, be shooting the ball down the barrel with a sloppy patch to say the least, because the PRB can be pushed into the smooth breach area. I may expermient with some kind of filler (felt wad) to keep the PRB in the rifling.

This must not be common to all Crockett rifles. Mine will shoot nickel sized groups,at 30 yds, with 18 grns of KIK Fffg and I also don't have the problem of the cleaning jag hanging up.

While I was at it. I cut the back of the snail even where the nipple sits. I found that it is very hard to get a nipple wrench in there, and I wanted to install a flash cup. I ground and filled the area down, pollished it on the pollishing wheel and reblued. Looks like it was made that way and I hope the flash cup will contain some of the burning action of the caps firing. This rifle has taken some tinkering to get it to shoot like I expect, but the initial range trip looks promsing indeed!

The close clearance in the snail, around the nipple, has always been my biggest complaint about the Crockett.

 

[HomeinDixie]

I sure wish mine would shoot well with those lower powered loadings! The main reason I bought the rifle was to shoot squirels with while the leaves are still on the trees and most shots are inside 20 yards.
I was able to make it out to the range monday for some more testing. With 25 grs of fff Goex it was shooting around 1.5 inches at 50 yards. This is about as good as I can manage with irons and many times I had two out of three shots touching. I will need to do more testing. BTW what patching and balls are you using? I was using .31 and .18 ticking, washed and with SPG lube. I have more patch strips made up with lube 2000 to try next time out.
Judging from the striks on steel silouet targets, I would say it is at least as stiff a load as a 22 mag, maby more. I'm actually a little reserved about using it for close range hunting. I may have to use it for plinking and targets. Or :hmm: have a machine shope turn a false chamber for the breach plug with the same bore as the back of the breach plug and a shoulder to replace that washer I installed! Now there is an idea!

On a side note, My wife loves the looks of muzzle loaders with the brass furniture. She thinks my AR 15 is sooooo ugly! hehehe

 

[CoyoteJoe]

Your wife is right, on both counts. :grin:

 

I sure wish mine would shoot well with those lower powered loadings! The main reason I bought the rifle was to shoot squirels with while the leaves are still on the trees and most shots are inside 20 yards.
I was able to make it out to the range monday for some more testing. With 25 grs of fff Goex it was shooting around 1.5 inches at 50 yards. This is about as good as I can manage with irons and many times I had two out of three shots touching. I will need to do more testing. BTW what patching and balls are you using? I was using .31 and .18 ticking, washed and with SPG lube. I have more patch strips made up with lube 2000 to try next time out.
Judging from the striks on steel silouet targets, I would say it is at least as stiff a load as a 22 mag, maby more. I'm actually a little reserved about using it for close range hunting. I may have to use it for plinking and targets. Or :hmm: have a machine shope turn a false chamber for the breach plug with the same bore as the back of the breach plug and a shoulder to replace that washer I installed! Now there is an idea!

On a side note, My wife loves the looks of muzzle loaders with the brass furniture. She thinks my AR 15 is sooooo ugly! hehehe

Sounds like you may want to up your ball size a notch, try a .315, you'd be surprised at how much a difference that can make.

IMO, AR 15 are ugly, M14's and Mini-14 are things of beauty!

CP

 

[HomeinDixie]

I should have stated my progression.

I started out with .10 prelubed patches, .15 prelubed patches, .310 and .315 Hornady balls.

The .10 and .31 where very loose fit. The .10 and .31 where better but accuracy was still all over. Next the .310 and .15 patch, better but not so good. I increased the loading to 25 grs and wow! This is starting to look good. Next the .310 balls and .18 ticking, better. Try the .315 and .18 ticking, no difference.

I have an old Investarms .50 hawken that .005 makes all the difference in the world. I use .495 and .15 patch in this rifle. Group size will double in this rifle just by using a .490 ball.

I still may do some brain storming to reduce the powder chamber volume!

 

[walruskid1]

clay pipe, you forgot the two beauties, garand and o3. my crockett does have the tendency to grab patches, just don't know if i'm ready to tear it apart. i admire your daring ripping into your rifle. :thumbsup:

 

[harryo]

BTW what patching and balls are you using? I was using .31 and .18 ticking, washed and with SPG lube. I have more patch strips made up with lube 2000 to try next time out.

.311 balls cast from a Lee mould and .018 ticking patches lubed with moose milk.

The .32cal will still tear up a squirrel pretty well if you don't make a head shot.

 

[shmrck1]

I'm with you on everything you said, except for
the load. I use .310 with .015 patch with moose snot lube and 25 grns
fff Goex powder. Head shots on tree rats to
30 yards are the norm. If I miss the head I
miss everything. I think that occurred a couple
times. RIGHT :rotf: :rotf:
snake-eyes M2C

 

[HomeinDixie]

We received a lot of rain yesterday and this morning. Around here that means the river will be full of floties(trash, two leater bottles, pop bottles etc.) Took my 14 year old with his .22 and I took the Crocket!
I had made some pillow ticking strips dipped in wonder lube for cut patches, .310 balls and 25grs fff. To say the least bottles where toast! I realy love this little rifle and can't wait until hunting season opens. Judging from the size of the holes in some of the pop cans I shot from about 25 yards, head shots will probably be in order!
I let my son shoot the .32. The first time he has fired BP. He said he was expecting a lot more kick. I may have just made a new BP shooter today. :thumbsup:

 

[rods]

I have been watching this thread closely, as I have just gotten a Crockett rifle. Mine doesn't seem to grab patches, so does this mean the breech plug is ok on mine?
I have not even gotten it sighted in yet, as it is shooting low, and I didn't bring along a file for the front sight. Is it fairly common to need the front sight filed on a new rifle, and should I get the barrell broken in a bit more before adjusting the sights? Have not found the best accuracy yet, but am still looking. So far have been using .310 RB, .10 and .18 ticking, 15 to 25 grains Swiss 3F.
Thanks
Rods

 

[Pittsburghunter]

Rods, your loads seem to be about right but I like them a little stiffer. I shoot 30-32g if I want to reach out 100yds with the little rifle. If you are getting consistant low groups by all means start doing a little filing but do very little at a time because it is easy to go to far.

Right now I have mine shooting dead center so it needs a little filing to get the "pumkin on the post" but I actually like that type of sight picture anyways so I have not filed any more of the front sight off.

 

I should have stated my progression.

I started out with .10 prelubed patches, .15 prelubed patches, .310 and .315 Hornady balls.

The .10 and .31 where very loose fit. The .10 and .31 where better but accuracy was still all over. Next the .310 and .15 patch, better but not so good. I increased the loading to 25 grs and wow! This is starting to look good. Next the .310 balls and .18 ticking, better. Try the .315 and .18 ticking, no difference.

I have an old Investarms .50 hawken that .005 makes all the difference in the world. I use .495 and .15 patch in this rifle. Group size will double in this rifle just by using a .490 ball.

I still may do some brain storming to reduce the powder chamber volume!

Okay, now we are where I need to see some recovered patches and balls. Can you dry ball and pull it or light load a ball and shoot it into a wet phone book, and photograph it? A good patch and ball combination will leave a grip pattern on the ball. What that is is the imprint of the weave of the fabric in the soft lead of the ball. it will reflect the number of lands in your rifling.

CP

 

[jackwill]

The extra large powder chamber is the reason you need fairly large charges to keep the ball in the riflings.
Removing the plug took a fair amount of force but after it began to back out it was fairly easy. It looks like it was filled with some kind of pipe seal that hardens with time. I cleaned the threads and used teflon tape to replace the plug.

 

[jackwill]

I am having similar problems with the Crocket.What kind of wrench did you use to remove the breech plug? There is nothing under the tang to fit a wrench to. The only place I see is the top and bottom flats of the plug.
Also, what diameter rod and jag are you using? The smallest diameter listed with all suppliers is 5/16 .312 dia. A .312 jag with a patch around it will not go into a .320 bore. Does anyone make 1/4 inch rods and jags?

 

[HomeinDixie]

I buy all my supplies from Dixie Gunworks (it's just down the street) and have found a 1/4 rod works best. I tried using the 5/16 rods, but they where just too tight. I have setteled on the 1/4 inch fiberglass super rod from Dixie. I have a jag on one end and just a brass thimble on the other end to seat the balls. They do sell ends made for a 1/4 rod, you have to cut down the end of the rod to fit the hole, that are much easier to use with a jag and patch. I found that many times the patch would pass the jag and actually hang up on the shaft of the jag. You have to use a patch that is "just rite", or it will hang, or fall off in the breach! Make sure you have some kind of ball puller, not to pull balls, but to retreve those lost patches!

I used a good adjustable wrench to turn out the plug, while the barell was clamped in a padded vise.

My Crockett rifle shoots great with about 25gr of 3f. I am dissipointed that I am not able to shoot lower powered loads in this rifle. I have settled on pillow tacking cut into strips, dipped in melted Wonder Lube 2000, and cut at the muzzle around a .310 ball. I hope to be ready for hunting in late Aug.

The .32 has been a challenge to say the least! It has been more of a trial and error endevor than the large bores have ever been!

 

[arcticap]

I use Kleen-Bore brass cleaning jags mostly made for center fire guns so they are available in many sizes. They fit Hoppes 1/4" muzzle loader cleaning rods without any problem.

Kleen-Bore, Inc.
16 Industrial Pkwy.
Easthampton, MA 01027