I Have A Functional Rifle!

[Col. Batguano]

I ran in to the same thing with my double action single set trigger. The main problem is that there just isn't that much of a "shoulder" to counteract and stabilize the fairly narrow trigger from wanting to wobble.

So here's the fix I used for a wobbly (side to side) Davis DASST trigger assembly mechanism;

1.). Try to measure the size of the hole and the pin diameter as best you can. You need calipers for this.
2.). Then buy a single wire size drill bit one size up from that. Probably a $3-$4 item at most. If the existing wire pin is 1/16" (and it probably is) then the next size up is either a 1.6mm bit (.0630") or a #52 (.0635"). It's pretty hard to find small lengths of that size wire.
4.). Drill out both the support assembly and the trigger (It's best to use a vice in your drill press for this, and choke up with the bit as close as possible to the chuck to minimize the bit bending and wobbling in the drilling operation.)
5.). Insert the shank of the bit through the holes
6.). Break off the shank from the bit and use this as your pivot pin. (see #2 above)
7.). If there is still a little wobble some times you can peen the shaft to be a little bit "out of round" to eliminate it, but you will have to soften the steel first. That works better than trying to close up the hole in the blade by whacking it. If you DO whack the shaft to be out of round then there will only be one way the blade will fit it, and it can sometimes take a few minutes to find that "sweet spot" where it fits.

Since the shank is hardened steel you will probably need to use a grinder to get it down to the correct length. I don't think you'll have to temper it (unless you already did to soften it).

I tried filling in the hole with soft solder and re-drilling to the existing pin size and that didn't work. The solder was too soft to lend any appreciable support. You could probably build it up with welding steel or brass brazing to increase the thickness of the trigger blade at the contact point too. It only takes a few 0.001's for that trigger to wobble

 

[Cruzatte]

Still needs pictures.

 

[Valkyrie]

Ok.

So i have been spending a few minutes every evening trying to think and go slow. The lock fitting and hole drilling and tapping is complete.

I feel like I have hit a big milestone somehow. I didn’t make any mistakes that were no able to be corrected and made to disappear. First one was the wrong hole size through the lock bolster. I filled it with a screw, red loctite, peened it and filed it off smooth. Redrilled to the correct size (8-32 not 10-32). It’s invisible.

When drilling the bolt holes for the stock the rear bolt didn’t go through the breech plug but rather kissed the back side of it and made the bit walk out the other side about 1/16” off. So I made a 1/4” maple plug, opened up the bolt hole, glued in the 1/4” plug and waited until it was dry, cut flush and redrilled after using a small rat tail file to make clearance on the back side of the breech plug. It will be invisible under the side plate.

I guess fitting all the metal furniture is next.

The lock plate has a good bit of casting flaws that I’m trying to level out. There’s a little spot under the flash pan that may have to live there.

The trigger group works awesome. The lock makes gobs of spark too. No more work this week as I’m headed flintlock deer hunting over the holiday. With another rifle of course. This one is a gift for my brother. So I want to make the best rifle I can and one he will like.

And yeah. My work area is a mess. Lol.

 

[64Springer]

Nothing worse than a clean shop.

Keep plugging away.

 

[Valkyrie]

Over a year ago I purchased parts to build my first rifle. Not a kit, everything A La Cart. I wanted something that I just couldn’t buy and that would be uniquely mine.

Anyway, I ran into a couple issues with the preinlet stock. The lock mortise was cut a little too deep. The barrel channel was horridly inconsistent. By the time I got it to work I had to use bedding epoxy to repair the lock mortise area as the barrel and breech plug area was cut through the barrel channel into the mortise area. I know long story but I got it repaired rather than ordering a new stock. Then the barrel channel had such problems that I had to fill in some areas with bedding compound also.

Anyways I got frustrated and shelved it a year ago. Just figured I would sell the parts and be done with it. But then I started thinking about it last week. I went back at it and realized I had a lot of wood to work with and my repairs are just fine, functional and invisible. So I finished the lock inletting and the trigger mechanism. But then, I got my drill and taps mixed up and drilled one hole for the lock for a 10-32 lock bolt, which I had only one 10-32 lock bolt! Realized my mistake since I had 8-32 lock bolts on hand after I tapped it with a 10-32 tap. So I drilled the other hole to 8-32 and tapped it so could at least assemble the rifle for trigger fitting. I ordered new 10-32 lock bolts and that’s what I’ll use on the finished rifle.

The trigger work gave me fits. The preinlet made it so the trigger assembly had to have the base plate bent to match the stock wrist contour, adjust the set trigger height and spring so it would clear the lock bar, take a little bit of metal from the lock bar to help in that but finally got it working and firing nicely. It’s a Siler large lock. It’s the one that’s tuned up from the factory. The flint is about a1/4 inch from the frizzen face at half cock and at full cock it has a pretty good space to swing.

Anyways I have a functioning rifle!!Now the fittings and stock work. Wish me luck!!

Got some pics. Installed the nose cap last evening. That is a nerve wracking job. Wood is thin but I went slow and it fits very well. I used some two part epoxy but installed a homemade copper rivet also.

 

[deerstalkert]

Ok.

So i have been spending a few minutes every evening trying to think and go slow. The lock fitting and hole drilling and tapping is complete.

I feel like I have hit a big milestone somehow. I didn’t make any mistakes that were no able to be corrected and made to disappear. First one was the wrong hole size through the lock bolster. I filled it with a screw, red loctite, peened it and filed it off smooth. Redrilled to the correct size (8-32 not 10-32). It’s invisible.

When drilling the bolt holes for the stock the rear bolt didn’t go through the breech plug but rather kissed the back side of it and made the bit walk out the other side about 1/16” off. So I made a 1/4” maple plug, opened up the bolt hole, glued in the 1/4” plug and waited until it was dry, cut flush and redrilled after using a small rat tail file to make clearance on the back side of the breech plug. It will be invisible under the side plate.

I guess fitting all the metal furniture is next.

The lock plate has a good bit of casting flaws that I’m trying to level out. There’s a little spot under the flash pan that may have to live there.

The trigger group works awesome. The lock makes gobs of spark too. No more work this week as I’m headed flintlock deer hunting over the holiday. With another rifle of course. This one is a gift for my brother. So I want to make the best rifle I can and one he will like.

And yeah. My work area is a mess. Lol.

i was sure for a moment you had a picture of my work space! then i realized it was too clean.

 

[Valkyrie]

i was sure for a moment you had a picture of my work space! then i realized it was too clean.

Lol.