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Interesting to look at but that's all . I'd give a hard pass to owning one.

Well as stated, it's a custom "option" so . . . but likewise, it's interesting that (apparently) given the option, you'd choose "less mechanical accuracy" and ease of assembly / disassembly . . .
Care to offer "why"? Just trying to understand "potential customer base" with something "new".

Mike
 
Well as stated, it's a custom "option" so . . . but likewise, it's interesting that (apparently) given the option, you'd choose "less mechanical accuracy" and ease of assembly / disassembly . . .
Care to offer "why"? Just trying to understand "potential customer base" with something "new".

Mike
In my case, as an average shooter, I can't imagine whatever mechanical accuracy advantage there is would make a noticeable difference in my shooting so as an old guy resistant to change I'd stick with the tried and true (180 years or so) screws. Also the possibility of the pins getting stuck, being difficult to remove the "i" pins. Not something I'd buy sight unseen.
 
No sir, the "Action pins" are held in place with basically interference pins that are tapered on the end. Just gently pushing the Action pins out (toothpick or whatever) will move the interference pins out of the way. The mounted back strap and trigger guard keep the interference pins in position ( as normal). To reinstall, just push the a.pins in and push the i.pins down to lock them in place. It's faster and no buggered screw slots.

Mike

You do know what you are doing, my friend.
 
In my case, as an average shooter, I can't imagine whatever mechanical accuracy advantage there is would make a noticeable difference in my shooting so as an old guy resistant to change I'd stick with the tried and true (180 years or so) screws. Also the possibility of the pins getting stuck, being difficult to remove the "i" pins. Not something I'd buy sight unseen.
It really is a solution in search of a problem from a mechanical angle but is a nice touch for a conversation starter !
 
In my case, as an average shooter, I can't imagine whatever mechanical accuracy advantage there is would make a noticeable difference in my shooting so as an old guy resistant to change I'd stick with the tried and true (180 years or so) screws. Also the possibility of the pins getting stuck, being difficult to remove the "i" pins. Not something I'd buy sight unseen.

I understand that for sure, especially if it's your first time getting any type tuning. It's a lot like the presence of an action stop ( and adjusted correctly) , ya don't know till ya know. The mechanical accuracy of the hammer tracking perfectly ( zero slack) as well as the trigger is something you understand after you've experienced it. As others have posted, the ease of assembling the action without the need of a screwdriver is definitely a plus !!

Thanks!!
Mike
 
I understand that for sure, especially if it's your first time getting any type tuning. It's a lot like the presence of an action stop ( and adjusted correctly) , ya don't know till ya know. The mechanical accuracy of the hammer tracking perfectly ( zero slack) as well as the trigger is something you understand after you've experienced it. As others have posted, the ease of assembling the action without the need of a screwdriver is definitely a plus !!

Thanks!!
Mike
You are a good salesman. I'd take a look at the real thing. Next factor would be cost.
 
It really is a solution in search of a problem from a mechanical angle but is a nice touch for a conversation starter !

Thanks, definitely a conversation starter!! I agree that it's not satisfying a perceived problem but it definitely is a mechanical enhancement or "upgrade" from the out of the box offerings . . . with added aesthetics.

Mike
 
I understand that for sure, especially if it's your first time getting any type tuning. It's a lot like the presence of an action stop ( and adjusted correctly) , ya don't know till ya know. The mechanical accuracy of the hammer tracking perfectly ( zero slack) as well as the trigger is something you understand after you've experienced it. As others have posted, the ease of assembling the action without the need of a screwdriver is definitely a plus !!

Thanks!!
Mike
A word on tuning. This may get deleted. A few years ago I got the Evil Roy (tuned) version of an unmentionable Colt (Uberti) from Cimarron. Paid extra for the tuning. My first large caliber revolver. It felt soooo smooth! But due to a shortened hand coil spring the cylinder often would not reach lock up. And many light strikes. That was the beginning of my self education. Replaced the hand coil spring and mainspring. The gun is not as smooth but always goes bang now which is, above all, it's #1 function. I'm sure that all of your tuned guns function very well. Only positive remarks there. Just letting you know that, that was my first experience with tuning so I've come to accept factory triggers as long as they shoot. Also, after semi-autos, any BP trigger is a dream! Except my muskets...they are tuned to a hairs breath.
 
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A word on tuning. This may get deleted. A few years ago I got the Evil Roy (tuned) version of an unmentionable Colt (Uberti) from Cimarron. Paid extra for the tuning. My first large caliber revolver. It felt soooo smooth! But due to a shortened hand coil spring the cylinder often would not reach lock up. And many light strikes. That was the beginning of my self education. Replaced the hand coil spring and mainspring. The gun is not as smooth but always goes bang now which is, above all, it's #1 function. I'm sure that all of your tuned guns function very well. Only positive remarks there. Just letting you know that, that was my first experience with tuning so I've come to accept factory triggers as long as they shoot. Also, after semi-autos, any BP trigger is a dream! Except my muskets...they are tuned to a hairs breath.

Bingo, I totally get that!!!

Believe me, the "tuned from (pick your importer) is really no more than a spring change and the "good" ones may correct bolt drop . . .
That's not what I do . . . "They" don't - make and install a bolt block, add an action stop, thin the left bolt arm to take advantage of the lighter main spring (so failure to fire doesn't happen), reduce the cam height and polish, dress and contour the bolt head to protect the notches. Polish triggers, bolt heads, deburr cylinder ratchets and polish the ramps. Install an action shield (cap gun or cartridge), lighten the main spring (they replace), lighten action springs, ensure hammer face / nipple contact (must go bang!!) or correct firing pin protrusion. You can add in the time for drilling and threading all appropriate holes . . . There's also arbor length correction and cap posts for cap guns. Harden and color the screws. Plus any added extras (interference pins, recoil shield facing, 2 fingered hands for "convertibles") and now a "Screwless Frame" feature . . .
That all represents 12-15+ hours that I can promise you the importers don't do. So, you get what you pay . . . sometimes!!! 😎

Mike
 
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