Cutting a barrel channel
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You need a basic book on gunbuilding, like Peter Alexander's or Dixon's.
I cut barrel channels by hand using gouges and chisels. Some use saws for the vertical cuts and follow with chisels. Some use planes to rough in the channel. Some use octagonal shaped scrapers.
I cut barrel channels by hand using gouges and chisels. Some use saws for the vertical cuts and follow with chisels. Some use planes to rough in the channel. Some use octagonal shaped scrapers.
Stophel
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I did a small photo series on how I inlet rifle barrels. Click this link[url] http://photobucket.com/albums/v326/Fatdutchman/Flintlocks2[/url]
The photos are in reverse order.
First, I set down the breech into the wood, because this area is sloped down where you cut off the top slab of wood, which establishes the top of the barrel channel of the stock.
Second, I cut the bottom flat to depth. Once this is established, I won't have to mess with the depth any more, other than a little final fitting. I use a plane I made myself to cut a little rabbet just to get me started. Then, I lay the barrel on top of the stock in position, and take diameter measurements at intervals along the barrel (every two or three inches). Divide this measurement in two, and you have the desired depth of the barrel channel. I mark this on top of the stock at the interval marks and chisel down the bottom flat until the depth is achieved all the way down the channel. The depth is done. This is your "stop" for inletting. The bottom flat won't have to be messed with anymore as to depth, though it will have to be smoothed up and widened towards the breech and muzzle ends (with a swamped barrel).
Now, lay the barrel on again, and position it properly centered over the groove, and scribe along each side of the barrel. I then take a wide chisel and chisel straight down just a few taps, going all along both scribe lines, then back-cut to the chisel stab. Then, I use a chisel to cut down these "shoulders" to the depth that I think the side flats will be. It's just by eye. This establishes a "T" shaped inlet.
All that is left is to cut the oblique flats, which is easy to do. THEN you can put your preferred marking medium on the barrel and do your final fitting.
I can usually do a barrel in about 3 1/2 hours (round barrels take longer for me). In fact, I am just in for supper break from inletting one right now. This one is in walnut, which cuts much easier, and I could well get it done in about 3 hours or less...
The photos are in reverse order.
First, I set down the breech into the wood, because this area is sloped down where you cut off the top slab of wood, which establishes the top of the barrel channel of the stock.
Second, I cut the bottom flat to depth. Once this is established, I won't have to mess with the depth any more, other than a little final fitting. I use a plane I made myself to cut a little rabbet just to get me started. Then, I lay the barrel on top of the stock in position, and take diameter measurements at intervals along the barrel (every two or three inches). Divide this measurement in two, and you have the desired depth of the barrel channel. I mark this on top of the stock at the interval marks and chisel down the bottom flat until the depth is achieved all the way down the channel. The depth is done. This is your "stop" for inletting. The bottom flat won't have to be messed with anymore as to depth, though it will have to be smoothed up and widened towards the breech and muzzle ends (with a swamped barrel).
Now, lay the barrel on again, and position it properly centered over the groove, and scribe along each side of the barrel. I then take a wide chisel and chisel straight down just a few taps, going all along both scribe lines, then back-cut to the chisel stab. Then, I use a chisel to cut down these "shoulders" to the depth that I think the side flats will be. It's just by eye. This establishes a "T" shaped inlet.
All that is left is to cut the oblique flats, which is easy to do. THEN you can put your preferred marking medium on the barrel and do your final fitting.
I can usually do a barrel in about 3 1/2 hours (round barrels take longer for me). In fact, I am just in for supper break from inletting one right now. This one is in walnut, which cuts much easier, and I could well get it done in about 3 hours or less...
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Guest
:rotf: And some use shapers and routers and table saws. Would Danial Boone have used one. hehehe
Va.Manuf.06
58 Cal.
lonesomebob said:
:haha: Care to give us a detailed explanation of your methodology when doing a quick inletting job? :yakyak: Personally I like the Dutchman's method a whole lot better than power tools.
CrackStock
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I like your tools and method. I need to percolate on it for a time.
I was working towards doing one with a wooden guide and a drill press. I have an electric and a hand crank press, both of which have a method for securing and guiding work. One can set up a guide fence; set the depth and drill a series of holes which are later connected with chiseling. I understood that this was also a period correct and effective way of creating an initial channel. Am I wrong in this?
CS
I was working towards doing one with a wooden guide and a drill press. I have an electric and a hand crank press, both of which have a method for securing and guiding work. One can set up a guide fence; set the depth and drill a series of holes which are later connected with chiseling. I understood that this was also a period correct and effective way of creating an initial channel. Am I wrong in this?
CS
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-- fett nailed it in one... he obviously knows what he's doing... you don't need and shouldn't use a router (or other power tools) for the inletting. most of our favourite woods (especially those with the really nice figure) will chip, split, tearout, and do horrid things when exposed to the not- so- gentle ministrations of power cutting equipment.
especially with shorter channels, such as the one you propose, chisels will work fine, and will provide you the control you need.
the trick (if you were to call it that) is to have the chisel razor sharp. if you can't shave hair from your forearm with it, it's still dull.
check out Alrexander's book
good luck- don't expect it to go as fast as Fett's work- he's beeen at this a while, but the patience will show in the product!
MSW
especially with shorter channels, such as the one you propose, chisels will work fine, and will provide you the control you need.
the trick (if you were to call it that) is to have the chisel razor sharp. if you can't shave hair from your forearm with it, it's still dull.
check out Alrexander's book
good luck- don't expect it to go as fast as Fett's work- he's beeen at this a while, but the patience will show in the product!
MSW
Stophel
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Two hours and 50 minutes! A new record! If the stock were hard maple, it would have taken maybe an hour longer. Walnut is SO much easier to cut than is sugar maple.
You're doing a pistol barrel, so that should be a relatively quick job.
My first swamped barrel took me THREE MONTHS to inlet!!!
One thing to remember is that you don't need absolute contact all the way up and down the barrel channel. Perfection is not required. Good enough is good enough. The breech face does need to be real good, though.
I have done the cutting to depth of the bottom flat by drilling out before. I had no type of guide or anything, I just had to drill them one at a time....VERY time consuming.
You're doing a pistol barrel, so that should be a relatively quick job.
My first swamped barrel took me THREE MONTHS to inlet!!!
One thing to remember is that you don't need absolute contact all the way up and down the barrel channel. Perfection is not required. Good enough is good enough. The breech face does need to be real good, though.
I have done the cutting to depth of the bottom flat by drilling out before. I had no type of guide or anything, I just had to drill them one at a time....VERY time consuming.
Guest
Another thing to consider is mind set, and while pistols, and half-stocks aren't quite the same, your thinking needs to be that the barrel supports the forestock in muzzleloaders. This helps to get the stock shaped correctly. So as Fett says the fit doesn't have to be perfect, just fairly uniform. One thought is to cut up a piece of 2x6 into a stock shape, and make a couple of practice runs, learn your tools, that means the angle you use your chisels, and gouges, and the order in which you would use them. Believe me it will be time well spent. Also as has been already said, you need your tools scalpel sharp. Hardwood can dull up a tool in only a few minutes of work.
Bill
Bill
