Cutting Over Powder Cards with the Triple P Loader

[arcticap]

I cut some .45 over powder cards today using the wad cutter attachment that I ordered along with the Triple P loader.
I've been saving up wax board for this purpose.
The Triple P cutter worked great and with a minimum of effort, it was easily cutting perfect paper disks through up to 5 layers of wax board. Wax board containers come in a variety of thicknesses, so I chose to start with a medium thickness.

I'll probably order some Durofelt, but I wanted to see if it was really necessary. Plus the thicker felt wads may take away chamber space when loading conical bullets.
A single card was placed on top of the loaded powder in each chamber and rammed down.

Then after ramming the balls, I compressed another single card on top of the ball for good measure.

Here's another:

Next time I may load with 2 cards over the powder, but I wanted to try it out with just one first.
Next it will be off to the range to test them out. Maybe a small amount of lube could be sandwiched in between 2 cards? :hmm:

 

[bingo1952]

Just soak your cards in melted lube and drain. If you try to put very much lube under the ball between the two cards seating pressure will force it past the lower card and into your powder unless it is either vey cold or your lube is extremely thick. Those card wads do look good.

 

[arcticap]

The loads consisted of 35 grains of APP fffg and the cards worked just fine.
The material is very tough and dense and didn't seem to burn, but I could
only find 4 of them which were all probably loaded over the balls.

This was the first time shooting a Pietta Remington target model that I bought used.

 

[LeMat1856]

.
. may 31 / 02:55am


very very nice photography.. i'm from the old school - kodachrome 64 slide, fuji 50, etc. - and getting results like yours would have been a job for a professional with studio lighting - minimum.

as to the target: what was your distance, rb size, and powder load (app = american pioneer powder, is that right ?) for the shoot ?

also, in all my limited experience (10 months) i've never seen anyone use op and os cards in a revolver chamber... why, where, do you use these and get the idea ?

i use op and os cards from track of wolf that come in the wrong size (.659") for my lemat's smooth barrel which is .645" because they are as close as i could get.. did you happen to see a cutter in the 17 gauge / .659 size ?

and looks like you got a great deal on a mint quality remy !

~d~

 

[arcticap]

Thanks for the compliments.
Here's information about the Triple P Loader:
http://www.sixgunforfun.com/

The loader can be ordered with cutter attachments and the maker has indicated the possibility of making different sizes on an as needed basis. The cutter has a new aluminum housing and a detachable cutting head that's easy to switch for different diameters up to at least 12 gauge.

I was shooting at 17 or 18 yards with .451 balls that fit snug enough to cut a thin ring of lead when rammed, and also used American Pioneer Powder fffg. That powder costs less than $14 per lb. at Cabela's when they have it in stock. 35 grains of it felt smooth & potent enough to shoot accurately with the cards. Plus the cards helped to compressed it quite a bit in the chambers.
The sights did shoot a little high for that distance.
I think that I got the idea to use wax board cards on this forum from folks who recommended materials to make OP/OS cards for smoothbores. I also learned about chainfires and the need to seal the cylinders here too. Since I invested in the loader, I figured that I should recoup some dollars by making cards instead of buying wool or fiber wads if I didn't need to. :wink:
Why not ask the maker if he'll make you a cutter in the size that you need?
The used Remington is perfect and I intend to shoot some skirted lead conicals with it next.
And the Triple P Loader kit certainly made loading fun for this new C&B shooter! :thumbsup:

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

The way to avoid chainfires is to use the correct size ball. It's easy to tell if you have the right ball because when you seat the ball you will shave off a nice even ring all around the ball. A little lube over the ball will help keep fouling soft, but probably wasn't used in period. Chain-fires occur at the rear of the cylinder assuming you use the right ball. The problem is using the wrong size cap. A tight fitting cap keeps the fired cap from causing a sympathetic firing in other chambers.

Loaded with proper components, a chain-fire is a very unlikely event. Over-ball wads aren't much insurance against one and I wouldn't bet much money on the over-powder wads either. The original load was powder, ball and cap and they seem to have gotten along fine. A good amount of lube on the cylinder arbor will keep things going a little longer. A stiff beeswax and tallow mix has always worked well for me. About 50-50.

 

[Blizzard of '93]

DuroFelt sells 1/16th thickness which is what I use to cut buttons for my ROA and '58 Rem. I load them dry but the Lee mold conical is well lubed.
shoots great.
looks as if you have a good set-up there, I use a hand punch to cut 2 at a time with a whack from hammer.

 

[arcticap]

One benefit of loading with wads, vegetable fiber or wax board cards is that they provide some swabbing/scrapping action in between shots to help minimize the powder fouling and the build up of melted lube and powder residue within the barrel.
Another potential benefit may be to help to act as a gas check behind the ball during ignition.
Thirdly chambers can rust, wear or have imperfections that can cause them to not completely seal even when the right size ball is loaded I believe.
Sometimes not using a wad or card leads folks to select an oversize .454 or .457 ball rather than the .451 ball which are more difficult to load and to use the gun's rammer to load, and which may even cause stress to brass frame guns, arbors or people's hands when they load that way repeatedly. So if the chambers can be sealed better whether due to loose chamber or ball tolerances, then wads/cards do provide a greater margain of safety.
If a person can load with smaller balls without as much worry about sealing the chambers, then that's less wear and tear and stress on the hand, the rammer, the frame, plus a cleaner barrel from the swabbing action.
Lastly, if using wads/cards can reduce the amount of lube required to seal the chambers, then C&B shooting becomes less of a mess.
So using wads/cards can offer benefits, it's just whether the higher costs of buying them is justifiable.
But if they can be made for a very low cost, then that does makes it easier to justify using them.

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

I've always avoided rust in my revolver chambers through careful cleaning and maintenance. If you have a chamber with defects, I'd either demand a refund or a new revolver that did not have defects. In 50 years, I have never had a chamber wear out and I've also never had a chain-fire. But wads (and breakfast cereal) are often stuffed into these guns and it's just another case of "to each his own" I guess.

 

[arcticap]

My first revolver was a used ASM and it had minor pitting in the barrel and a little rust in the chambers too.
And I know an old gent who only shot his original Colts.
I also think that the wads can help to prevent powder contaimination from melted lube and moisture, especially for those who like to keep their pistol loaded.