Cutting patches at the muzzle

[laney1566]

Hello.
Since starting this journey of muzzleloading, I have always bought pre-lubed and sized patches. I decided to buy some ticking and here is my question:
I assume that the ball is seated just inside the barrel with the starter. Should I cut patch width to allow a complete 360 deg cut or do I size it so half the ball is already sized? (cutting the excess from either side).
Hope I described my question properly.

 

[BrownBear]

I like my strips of patching a little wider than they need to be, to allow me some freedom in starting the ball. It just doesn't have to be lined up so carefully to assure that the patching goes all around the circumference of the ball where it meets the bore.

It's no extra effort to cut once you have seated the ball, even if it "wastes" a tiny bit of patching each time I cut.

 

[renovato]

The patch strip needs to be wide enough for full coverage of the ball. When you cut at the muzzle, the strip should have a jagged hole cut out of it, rather than be cut into seperate pieces. The good part is that you can make your strip wide enough for your largest caliber, and use it for all your other calibers too. The extra patch material doesn't effect smaller calibers.

 

[laney1566]

Thanks..That explained it clearly!! :v

 

[Tumblernotch]

The patch strip needs to be wide enough for full coverage of the ball. When you cut at the muzzle, the strip should have a jagged hole cut out of it, rather than be cut into seperate pieces. The good part is that you can make your strip wide enough for your largest caliber, and use it for all your other calibers too. The extra patch material doesn't effect smaller calibers.

I agree. And when you use it for smaller calibers you can stagger the spots where the patch is placed under the ball and that will reduce waste.

 

[tg]

When you are at the range sometime, you might want to try some pre-cut square patches, you may like the results.

 

[Many Klatch]

I tear off a strip of patching about 2 inches wide and hang it from my powder horn strap. I like the wider patching, it allows me to stagger the cut areas as I load. I don't really worry too much about getting an even cut. I figure that the part of the patch that is important is the part between the lead ball and the barrel. Any extra cloth that doesn't cut smoothly just gets tucked on top of the ball. I spit patch most of the time, so I usually have the patching in my mouth while I am measuring and pouring the powder. Then I lay the patch across the muzzle and push a ball in flush with the muzzle and cut it off.

Many Klatch

 

[renovato]

Precut squares is what I've been doing lately. I had been boring rounds out of stacked ticking. It took you folks a long time to convince me that squares worked just as well, and as usual, you all were right! I guess I'm just a slow learner sometimes. :rotf:

 

[Swampman]

Precut squares is what I've been doing lately. I had been boring rounds out of stacked ticking. It took you folks a long time to convince me that squares worked just as well, and as usual, you all were right! I guess I'm just a slow learner sometimes. :rotf:

Ditto & you don't ruin your muzzle by scratching it up with the knife.

 

[laney1566]

I have tried squares and rounds. They both work fine. I just wanted to try what some think of as traditional. Besides, I made a nice leather tube to hold the rolled up ticking in.....Pre-lubed. The square case is for dry patches.

 

[cptleo1]

If your patch strip is to narrow it can become a PIA rather quickly - You end up cutting the strip in half and then have to ditz with the small piece hanging out of the bbl

I like mine 2" or more wide, it is just less hassle.

Oh yea, once you think your patch knife is SHARP - Sharpen it some more !

Good luck

 

[tg]

"I have tried squares and rounds. They both work fine. I just wanted to try what some think of as traditional."

It would be interesting if we could get accurate information on what was used in the original rifles in the form of percentages, pre-cut rd/sq/cut at muzzle, I would think a precut with an oversized patch would be the fastest way to reload from my experience, sq. would produce the least amount of waste, interesting little piece of history that was probably mentioned little in period writings.

 

[CoyoteJoe]

Well there is information as to patching percussion target rifles but as to the early roundball hunting rifles we don't even know WHAT was used for patching, much less how it was cut.
I've seen some fellows have a narrow strip of cloth hanging from the bag strap. They'd draw a knife, cut off a rough square and use the knife handle to start the ball. That seemed pretty quick, probably faster than digging into the pouch for precuts.
I do believe the most accurate shooting comes by starting the ball exactly the same ever time, just deep enough that the knife doesn't touch the ball, and cutting the patch cleanly with a sharp knife. Accuracy is another word for consistency and precut patches, round, square or octagonal, will never be so consistent as patching cut at the muzzle. Of course that doesn't mean they can't be accurate enough. :grin:

 

[laney1566]

Well....with pillow ticking, it seems to me that the less you pre-cut, the less you will find yourself covered in frayed material. Boy its enough to make you want to go back to Thompson's pre-lubed round patches....but then again I did buy a great patch knife. Have to justify that right? :wink:

 

[reddog]

If you are damaging your muzzle a patch knife,,it means you don't know how to sharpen your patch knife! I am suprised at you,,because you usually know everything.