CVA Bobcat .54

[Gus1]

Hello everyone. I'm new here and to muzzleloading . A friend recently gave me a CVA Bobcat in 54 cal.because he can't take it with him where he's going.Gave me all the basic stuff to get started. My question is about loads with the powder he gave me with it.The powder is Hodgdon Pyrodex RS in the loose granules. What amount of this would equal 50 grains of regular ffg black powder?

 

[Zonie]

Welcome to the Forum.

You measure Pyrodex using the same powder measure that is used for black powder. Never weigh a powder charge of Pyrodex on a scale. It is much lighter per cc than real black powder but it packs the same power per cc as real black powder.

The maker intended it to only be measured by volume.

by the way, the granulated powder is exactly what you need. Do not try to use the pellets in your sidelock gun.

Hopefully you received a powder measure with the gun. These come in fixed or adjustable styles.

You didn't say if your Bobcat has a wooden stock or a plastic one and although I don't own one I've heard that the plastic stocked Bobcats are fairly light weight.
If your gun is one of these light weight guns I would advise that you shoot patched round lead balls. The ones to use in your gun will be .530 in diameter.

These roundballs weigh 223 grains which is a pretty good sized hunk of lead to be shooting but the gun will kick much less than if you shoot a heavier lead conical bullet.

The patches used for shooting roundballs should be either cotton or linen. Modern synthetic cloth usually does not work well at all (it can melt).

A good powder charge with either real black powder or with Pyrodex RS would be around 60 grains.

All muzzleloading guns have one or two load combination that they work well with. Finding the one your gun likes may take a bit of shooting and most folks start with a light load like 60 grains and take 5 shots. Then they increase the powder load by 5 grains and shoot 5 more shots.
By increasing the powder load you will find that at some point the accuracy starts to fall off. If you keep increasing the powder load some guns will have a higher powered load they like like 90 grains but it depends on the gun.
A 90 grain powder load in your .54 is a stout load that probably won't be used unless you plan on hunting.

A .54 caliber gun by the way is fully capable of taking any large animal in the U.S. except for a Grizzly bear.

 

[Gus1]

Thanks for the welcome Zonie. I received quite a few of the round balls and pre-lubed patches. He said they were the most accurate in the rifle, but didn't mention any load data. Have spent the last few hours cleaning some very light rust in the barrel. Yes it does have the synthetic stock, which makes it seem to make it a little front heavy. Read somewhere I could add some weight to the rear to make it balance. Can't wait to get out this weekend and try it out. Haven't been registered here but a few hours and have read quite a lot, and learned a lot in little time. Great site you all have here. Thanks for the reply, helped a lot

 

[Bill Hall]

Welcome Gus, and let us know how it shoots. Bill

 

[ohio ramrod]

The synthetic stocks are hollow so just remove the stock, put a sock filled with lead shot in the stock and stuff some rags in after to keep the shot tight against the butt of the gun.This method of balancing the barrel allows you to add or subtract weight untill you get the balance you want. :hmm: Enjoy learning how to play with your new toy. Just remember all Muzzle loaders must be cleaned and protected against rust. Warm water will work as well as anything to clean the gun. Remember the fouling needs removed not just loosened. After cleaning and drying coat the bore with an oil to prevent rust. Non petrolium based oils make the best lubes, petrolium based oils make the best rust preventive. But remove any petrolium based oils before loading and firing.Have fun and come back to the forum for more advice. Remember it is: Powder, then patch then ball! :v