• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

CVA Hawken breech plug question

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hey Paul- I think you misunderstood me.

ScottK said:
I'm assuming that once you get the corrosive salts out, cleaning and maintenance are pretty much the same as any other rifle, correct?

I understand the special needs for cleaning. I was talking about care and storage afterwards.
 
Thanks again for all of the help. The lock was covered with crud, but came apart and cleaned up easily enough. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the parts underneath were already nicely polished and just needed a little touching up.

This may be something I need to get used to with the black powder world, but I actually spent more time working on the wood than the metal. I found splinters in the lock and trigger workings and noticed a bunch of them hanging off of the unfinished inside edges. I'm amazed that someone would assemble a rifle without addressing this. I got out a small wood file and a sanding sponge, and it's all fixed now.

I reassembled everything and the trigger is smooth as silk. I'm off to The Gun Works for some supplies and should be at the range this weekend.

Thanks,
Scott
 
I purchase online from The Gun Works, but have never been to the store...Is it worth the drive from Portland?
 
It's probably only worth it if you were going to buy a rifle, wanted to look at it closely and save on shipping.

They have a lot of good used black powder guns, nice hawks, accessories etc. The store itself is a dingy, windowless hole in the wall in a bad neighborhood. It's nearly impossible to find too as it's in a back garage with no sign out front. None of this bothers me as it probabaly helps keep prices down. I just make sure I don't have anything valuable in the car.

If you are ever coming through Eugene and want to check it out, let me know. I'll go browse with you and help you find it...

Scott
 
Thanks....I never would have invisioned what you described. They have a great website and products arrive in a couple of days without paying extra.
 
Yes, and I'm not knocking them. It seems like a very well run and knowledgeable shop. I'm sure many here would kill to have a place like this withing driving distance.

The atmosphere is almost appropriate for what they are selling. It's very "old timey", like you'd expect to see a penny candy bin somewhere :grin:

I was actually in the process of turning around in a back lot, convinced that the place didn't exist. I practically had to put my front bumper in the door before I saw the sign.
 
I have a local guy here that works out of his barn and sells real black powder. Same kind of thing. I think the subject matter determines the atmosphere of the shop. I am thankful to have a shop nearbye as well.
 
I suspect that there was no stock finish put on the wood inside the lock mortise, or in the barrel and tang mortises. The next time you have this gun apart for cleaning, put some stock finish into the mortises, to SEAL the wood from oil, water, etc. Since the Lock Mortise is the Weakest part of the stock, I have been known to take a small paint brush, and brush on epoxy resin to the walls of the mortise, so that when the epoxy hardens, it adds strength to the wood. But, at the very least, put a fine coat of stock finishing oil on in the mortises to protect it from moisture, and oils.

Moisture and oil will weaken the wood, cause swelling, and then shrinking when the wood dries, and eventually lead to cracks. Oil in the wood makes it soft and spongey, and you get cracks in the wood from that, too. Its very hard to get oil out of wood once its there. Keep it out by sealing the bare wood in those mortises.
 
Paul, you are 100% correct and I was wondering about that. The finish was only bled in slighty to hide the edge once the lock plate is installed. The areas around the trigger and various mortises looked like a quickie production saw job without a hint of additional hand work or quality inspection.

I like your epoxy idea, and that sounds like a more permanent solution than oiling it. I'm going to get it done in short order.

Thanks,
Scott
 
So I had time to take a longer look around today at The Gun Works. While I'm still not sure I'd make a special trip down from Portland, they do have a "lot" of guns and supplies to drool over. They are also incredibly helpful and friendly. It was a nice change from the usual "gun shop attitude" that I've become used to over the years.

If you are passing through the area I would definitely try and make time to stop by....
 
Back
Top