CVA Hawken Lock Cleaning Question

[charlesbjr]

Good evening folks, I just bought a CVA 50 Cal Hawken, which is in pretty good shape. However, I will be breaking it down to do a good cleaning. I am ok with everything but the lock. I am afraid that I will cause a problem by removing it.

Has anyone ever done this and if so, any advice?

Thanks!

 

[junkman_01]

You will cause no problem by taking out the lock if you do it properly. You should do it as part of your cleaning routine.

First remove the barrel. Then remove the two screws holding the lock onto the stock from the left side noting which one goes where (sometimes they are different lengths). Next grab the hammer and wiggle the lock gently from it's in-letting. Never pry it out. Further dis-assembly of the lock is for a more advanced gunner and is not required for normal cleaning and lubrication.

 

[charlesbjr]

Thank you very much!!

Would you know what the tiny screws are next to the triggers? I have two triggers, one appears to allow the shooter to set the tension for the main or front trigger. I was thinking that the screws are for the tension adjustment.

 

[Zonie]

Welcome to the Forum.

If the lock doesn't want to move after you have removed the screw(s) that hold it in place, reinstall the screw(s) with your fingers but don't tighten it (them).

You will want to make sure they are engaged with their threaded hole(s) about 1 to 2 turns.

Then take a plastic handled screwdriver and tap the head(s) of the screw(s) a few times.

This will drive the lock plate out of the stock mortice slightly.
Once this is done, remove the screw(s) and wiggle the lock free from the stock.

Once you have the lock out you will find it is a rather simple piece of equipment.
There will be a part that sticks out away from the inside lockface called a sear arm.
This is what releases the hammer from a cocked position. To operate it, push it up but be real careful when you do this.
The mainspring is very powerful and the falling hammer can do a lot of damage to anything (like your finger) that's in the way.

If your gun has a single trigger, push it forward when you are putting the lock back into the stock.
This will lower the part of the trigger that pushes up on the locks projecting sear arm, allowing the lock to slip back into place.



About any good gun oil can be used to lubricate the moving parts of the lock.

 

[charlesbjr]

Damn, you guys are good! Thank you! :bow:

I will post pics when it is done.

 

[necchi]

This is your trigger, there's 3 adjustments.

The one between the triggers adjust the amount of engagment of the rear set trigger, the further in the shorter the travel of the front when "set"
a "hair trigger" adjustment.
The big one in back adjust the pressure of the leaf spring, and the small with arrow adjust the travel of the leaf spring and hight of the rear cam.

 

[Ron_T.]

I have an older .50 caliber CVA cap-lock rifle as well... and here's how I clean my hammer mechanism.

If you have an air compressor, once you've removed the lock, wash it under warm water using an old, soft toothbrush to remove the crud. Once it is clean, run the hottest water you can on the metal to heat it up.

Then blow it very dry, especially around the screws, screw-holes and under parts with light air pressure and lube it liberally with a good rust resistant lube like Ballistol Sportsman's Oil that comes in a small 6 oz. spray can.

Then blow off the excess lube with light air-pressure as well and re-install the lock in the stock.

If you don't have an air compressor, you might think about getting one. Harbor Freight has run "specials" for as low as $49.95 on 100 lb. psi air-compressors lately which regularly sell for $100. Such an air compressor would serve the purpose perfectly. In fact, that's what I have & use.

If you don't have an air compressor now, wash the lock with Barrel Blaster Solvent Spray cleaner that comes in a manually-operated spray bottle using the spray and a soft tooth brush to scrub those areas clean that you can reach, then dry the lock out with a clean cloth or good paper towels.

But be careful NOT to allow the paper towel's material to come off and get down into the hammer mechanism. If in doubt, use only the cloth to wipe the lock down and dry it off.

Once the lock mechanism is clean and dried off, lightly lube the lock with bio-degradable Ballistol Sportsman Oil that comes in a small 6 oz. spray can with a plastic spray-tube for directing the spray into "tight" places.

Cock and let the hammer come down in a "controlled drop" (using your thumb to let the hammer down) several times after you lube the whole hammer mechanism to insure the lubrication works it's way into the bearing surfaces of the movable hammer parts. Then wipe as much lube off as you can.

I do this once every 3 or 4 times I shoot the rifle & clean it. However, I tend to shoot at least once a week and more often, twice a week. So if you shoot your rifle considerably less often, then you should considering a thorough cleaning of the hammer mechanism more often.

I hope this explanation helps you to do a faster, better job. The occasional cleaning (some shooters clean it EVERY time they shoot the rifle) and lubrication of BOTH the hammer and trigger mechanisms will help keep your rifle in top form and hopefully add to the accuracy of your shots.

Jus' my 2¢... :hatsoff:

Keep your powder dry & make good smoke! :thumbsup:

Strength & Honor...

Ron T.

 

[Fred_Dwyer]

Don't know if your Hawken is done the same as my mountain rifle; but DON'T remove the forward lock screw (closest to muzzle), unscrew it but leave it in place. It secures the spring that retains the ramrod. It isn't a major problem but you need to pull the barrel to remount the retainer spring. If you push the ramrod in with the spring just lieing in there you will crush it. Just so you know what to look for.

 

[charlesbjr]

Great information guys and I really appreciate it!

Interesting about the ramrod spring. I only took the barrel off and noticed it just laying there. The ramrod fits in fine and stays in. But I am wondering if the previous owner did what you said?

Would you use a wd40 to spray down the lock and then dry it well before putting it back? I know some folks who do and I know others who are totally against it.

 

[junkman_01]

That's how I lube my locks.

 

[necchi]

Charles,
It's all about how YOU take care of it.

If your a wd40 guy then you know what the stuff does and doesn't.
Bottom line is they (locks and triggers)(barrels too) require care on a regular periodic basis.
Cleaning and lubrication is the issue, however it's done,, It needs to be done. :wink: