CVA Kentucky barrel replacement

[mauserdad]

Acquired a CVA 45 cal. Kentucky percussion rifle that has some age to it. Someone has cut off the drum that holds the percussion nipple and started to drill out the remaining threaded part of the drum. If I cannot get it tapped out I will probably look for a 45 replacement barrel. Saw this on a website.BARREL Ultra-Hi by Miroku Japan ~ Kentucky Long Rifle. Will this work on my CVA rifle? Any others that might work? Anyone know the thread size of that part going in to the barrel? Can anyone provide a picture of that drum? I have ordered a replacement drum assembly from Dixie Gun Works.Local gunsmith said it would be at least $100 to tap out and thread. I have sent CVA a help email on this issue. Thanks for the help. Ed

 

[Zonie]

I haven't tried using a Miroku barrel on a CVA Kentucky but my bet is that nothing would line up right.
The drum/nipple, underlugs and possibly the outside size of the barrel may be wrong.

Here's a picture showing what's inside your barrel



You might be able to get the remains of the drum out of the barrel by drilling the center hole out to something like 1/4" and then using a large EZ Out.

Then again, that might just break off the EZ Out because those drums are often rusted in place.

Another thought is, (if there is enough material), drill out the center of the drum using a letter "F" (.257 diameter) drill and tap the hole for a 5/16-18 UNF thread.

Buy a new drum with a 5/16-18 UNF thread on it and screw it in place.

TOW DRUMS

The lock may have a relief in it to support the bottom of the drum. This may need to be filed a bit to get the new drum to fit into it.

You might have to bend the hammer a bit to get things to line up but once you do, the old barrel will be back in operation.

 

[mauserdad]

Thank you sir for the advice. Have any idea what the original CVA thread was? Do you know of any other barrels that might work? Trying to avoid gunsmith cost.

 

[Zonie]

The folks at Deer Creek might be able to help you.
http://www.deercreekproducts.net/store/c1/Featured_Products.html

A number of years ago they bought up all of the spare parts CVA had when they decided to quit selling traditional guns.

I didn't see any barrels in the link but, here's their address and phone number.

If trying to contact them thru the link doesn't work, you might give them a call or write them a letter.
Perhaps they know of some replacement barrel that would work.

Deer Creek Products
6989 E Michigan Rd
Waldron, IN 46182

(765) 525-6181

 

[necchi]

Have any idea what the original CVA thread was?

It's 10x1.25MM https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Search.aspx?search=drum-cva

 

[mauserdad]

Again thanks Gents. I do have a replacement drum and assembly coming from Dixie Gun Works. They said it is for a CVA Kentucky. Have no idea what size it is.

 

[44-henry]

The barrels on those are not usually any standard such as 13/16" dimension and that will make it difficult. They are decent barrels and if nothing else you have the makings of new short rifle if it is properly re-breeched. To be perfectly honest the barrels are about the only thing on those rifles worth keeping.

 

[mauserdad]

I hear you on the value. Just looking in to all my options. I have a tap and die set with the above mentioned taps. I might try to tackle this my self. Waiting on Dixie GW part. Thanks for the come back.

 

[mauserdad]

Gents, a couple more questions if you don't mind. Is this a "Jukar" barrel? If I was fortunate to find a CVA Kentucky barrel in 50 cal would that work? Might wind up going to gunsmith. Local gunshop said that the drum must be properly indexed to hammer. Am I getting in over my head trying to tap it myself? Thanks

 

[Zonie]

Jukar pre-dated CVA. When CVA stopped importing traditional muzzleloaders, Traditions picked up the import of basically the same guns.

All of these guns were made by Ardesa in Spain and except for improvements Ardesa has made to the locks, they all are made with basically the same parts.

I'm not sure when Ardesa patented the breech plug with the side drum pinning the breech plug in place but I know it goes way back. Maybe even to the days Jukar was being made?

 

[mauserdad]

Thank you. Can you help on the other questions on my last posting? Thanks. Ed

 

[Michael Chambers]

..........You might be able to get the remains of the drum out of the barrel by drilling the center hole out to something like 1/4" and then using a large EZ Out.

Then again, that might just break off the EZ Out because those drums are often rusted in place.........

Back when I used to work in a screw machine job shop we were always breaking off bolts, etc., and quickly found out that EZ Outs break off too easily - then you really had a problem. After trying a lot of different tools supposedly made for taking out broken bolts, we finally hit on a technique that usually worked pretty well. We'd drill out the offending bolt remnant with a left-handed drill that was sized about a size or two under the root diameter of the male thread we were drilling out. Almost invariably, just as we drilled through to the end of the broken bolt, the darn thing would screw right out, leaving the female threads totally untouched. It was a combination of drilling out the radial compression strength of the broken remnant, allowing the remaining threaded wall some wiggle room, and the drill grabbing as it started breaking through the tip end of the bolt. Then finally, using a left handed drill exerted this force in the counter-clockwise direction needed to unscrew a right-handed thread. You can get left handed drills from most tooling houses that cater to machine shops.

 

[mauserdad]

Excellent idea. Do you have recollection of any of these tool companies. Thanks again. Ed

 

[Kansas Jake]

Harbor Freight carries a set of left handed drill bits that are pretty cheap price wise and to some extent quality wise too. I have a set and they have worked well for a couple of projects.

 

[mauserdad]

Thank you Sir. Will check that out. Again thanks for all the postings. I also have a lead on a CVA 45cal percussion Kentucky barrel from a kit that was never put together. Question. Will I have to do any fitting of the barrel because it is from a kit. Exterior of barrel will need to be finished which I plan on browning.

 

[necchi]

Will I have to do any fitting of the barrel because it is from a kit.

Uhm, sometimes. But it's easy stuff you can do at the kitchen table with basic hand tools. We can walk ya through it here.
The front forestock wood is held to the barrel with two pins and the nose cap, sometimes, the holes in the underlugs for those pins can be a little off. Also how the wood fit's under the nose cap and the space between the stock and forestock might need a little tuning

 

[timothy prouty]

NO I don't think so it's should be ready to go but I will try going to deer creek production and pick up a barrel from they are about100dollar so try them before you do anything else

 

[mauserdad]

Thanks Gents. I did look at deer creek for a CVA Kentucky barrel but did not see one. I did close the deal on the one I mentioned above for $120 shipped. Has the nipple drum with the end screw and the two holding wedges under the barrel with the pins. The seller advised me about drilling the holes in the wedges. If I get stuck I will call on you Gents who have already been very helpful . Thanks again.

 

[coloradoclyde]

I've sent a message to Traditions....will report back when I hear something....Maybe tomorrow.

 

[Michael Chambers]

Excellent idea. Do you have recollection of any of these tool companies. Thanks again. Ed

Yeah MauserDad, Grainger carries them.