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CVA Mountain Lock Problem

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In 30 + years of working on CVA's i've never found a better lock (here comes the hate mail) yes I've seen broken parts and misadjusted sears, but the L&R is a great lock but not as good as the original CVA with a bridle in percussion. Flint is a totally different story only in the sense I've never got a CVA frizzen to spark reliably. even after shoeing it. ..........Maybe thats why people tried depleted uranium:dunno:
 
OK yes, its working about 96% of the trys with the thin washer. So going to leave it in. Its about 2mm thick. Had to take some filing off the sear bar where it meets the trigger to get that right to make up the difference in where that meets.
Here is a pic of my cut back soda bottle to catcht the hammer blows...
 

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OK yes, its working about 96% of the trys with the thin washer. So going to leave it in. Its about 2mm thick. Had to take some filing off the sear bar where it meets the trigger to get that right to make up the difference in where that meets.
Here is a pic of my cut back soda bottle to catcht the hammer blows...
That gets us back to putting a shim under the trigger plate, between the metal and the wood, to lower the trigger assembly so it won't be contacting the sear arm or bar at rest.

Notchy Bob
 
Look for interference between the lock function and the inletting for the lock. You can look for shiny spots on the inletting where lock parts of the lock are rubbing against the inletting or use some inletting black on the lock parts, reassemble the firearm, make it function, then disassemble the lock from the firearm and look for any transfer of inletting black and remove as necessary. Be very careful to truly identify the interference.
Best of luck on this.
 
That gets us back to putting a shim under the trigger plate, between the metal and the wood, to lower the trigger assembly so it won't be contacting the sear arm or bar at rest.

Notchy Bob
Quite right Bob. These components are interrelated. So yes solving this problem has many angles.
 

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