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CVA Mountain Rifle opinion needed

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Pork Chop

58 Cal.
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I have found a CVA Mountain rifle that I can buy for what I think is reasonable money. There are a couple of problems though. The lock will not engage full cock. The adjustment screw for the set trigger seems to be missing as well. This is the older made in USA version and is quite attractive. It has it's share of surface rust, but it will clean up nicely. Should I consider buying this? The current asking price is under $100 and I think that there may be a little wiggle room...
 
For that price i would snatch it up. They were the best rifle CVA ever built. Very accurate, especially the ones made in the USA.
 
Check the bore. If it is not pitted or rusty, everything else can be dealt with. If the bore is rough, you are just buying somr parts.
 
Pork Chop said:
The current asking price is under $100 and I think that there may be a little wiggle room...

If the bore is decent, grab it and forget the "wiggle room". No sense being greedy when you can pick up such a fine gun. I have an early one (c. 1981) and wouldn't part with it for hide nor hair. Shoots where I aim it, has taken plenty of deer, and it still looks great. Good luck.
 
I have a Big Bore Mountain Rifle that I bought as a kit in '80. It still shoots great and does what I ask of it. You can get the screw for the trigger pretty easily and the missing screw may be why it won't go to full cock. A replacement lock would not be out of the question. At $100, go for it.
 
I was in a hurry when I posted the original note. The barrel looks nice inside. The rust that I mention is a very even coating - the shop is sort of dimly lit, so it could even be browning. The German silver pieces need polishing, as does the pewter nose cap. There are some bumps and bruises, but all VERY minor. It looks like it has been a wall hanger. I believe that I will pick it up. Heck, if it turns out that I don't like it, it appears that there are enough folks that like them, so trading it off would not be too difficult!

Thanks for the advice all!
 
Hey I would buy. :thumbsup: I have a Kentucky. I figure its a 1975 to 1978 era. How can you tell if there made in the USA. I thought they were all imported. :confused:
 
I have a Mountain rifle that I bought in 1979. The fly is adjustable with a small screw, this could be why the hammer will not stay back. They are a good gun if you do you part. Mine still shoots center after all these years. Enjoy! :)
 
I can honestly say I would like to find a nice USA made CVA Mountain rifle. I wanted one back then and didn't buy one. Should have though.
 
Is it rusty or rust colored? The originals (not late production) had browned barrels and maple stocks.

RedFeather
 
Sounds like a good deal for that price. You can get plenty of parts on eBay if you need them. Many times just cleaning and oiling the locks and triggers will fix them.
 
Porkchop
Thanks. When I talked to CVA about my Kentucky they told me that blued barrel were sold finished and brown barrels were sold as kits. I will have to check mine rifle out. I don't know if it says USA on it. Good luck. Mines a 45 cal. and it shoots so sweet. 60 GRS FFF Goex .440 PRB like everyone on the forum said. Our deer season start the 26th and can hardy wait.
 
Buy it NOW!!!

It sounds as if it might have been built from a kit and the triggers were set too deep. When you get the rifle, pull the lock and see if it will engage outside the rifle. If it will you may either need to shim the the triggers down a little or you may have to relieve a little wood in the tumbler area of the lock. That should fix the triggers. You can get spare parts from Deer Creek. I've never used them but other people on the forum have and seem to be pleased.

Oops! Someone mentioned the adjustment screw on the tumbler. Backing that off a little may fix the problem.

I have one I got back in '78 that I have used heavily in the '70s and '80s. It still shoots great.
 
my Mtn rifle has a trigger pull adjustment screw on the trigger plate,just to the rear of the double set triggers...when I was learning to use the rifle, I finally set this so that the hammer would not stay cocked...when I backed off a bit, and accepted a hair heavier trigger pull, it did stay cocked..I'd look into this as a solution first...and, as I said elsewhere, my American made Mtn rifle is still a tack driver..Hank
 
Don't know as the blued barrels were factory finished and the kits were browned as the only ones they sold in the first production were all browned. CVA must be talking about the recent re-introduced Mountain rifles. Sometimes the employees aren't familiar with older produxts. Just call Lyman if you don't believe me. Needed to know something about a sight I had on an 1885 Winder musket and they had to look in their 1970-something hundreth anniversary catalogue just to ID it.

RedFeather
 
OK, I bought it. I pulled the lock at the shop and the tip of the sear is broken off. So, at the minimum, I need the sear, the trigger adjusting screw and some time to play! I believe that I got a good deal. The bore looks like it will be nice once I clean the fine surface rust out of it. I asked what the best that they would do on it given the broken sear, and got it for a bit of a discount!

If anyone has the parts that I need, drop me a line at [email protected] and let me know. I will be away from PCs for a couple of days (not hunting though - Drat it!!), so I will get back with you as quickly as I can.
 
Dixie Gun Works has the parts you need. Check their website.

The barrel on your rifle was made in America, reputedly by Douglas, shipped to Spain, and assembled to the stock, lock, and hardware. That's what the "Made In America" refers to. The barrel being the heart of a muzzleloader, you've got a fine gun -- and you got an even finer deal.
 
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