• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

CVA Mountain Rifle Pic Thread

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I sent the seller a PM asking about those "marks".
Still waiting on a reply.
What's the OAL of the CVA Mtn. Rifle?
 
Could be masking-tape remnants and the barrel keys were/are loose!?
 
41 3/4". Tape residue. I have not seen one with silver butt plate. Must be a later re-issue and appears to have walnut. I want it!

PD
 
PeteDavis said:
Must be a later re-issue and appears to have walnut. I want it!

That's a 1990 Premier Grade Mountain Rifle. Unlike almost all other MRs, this edition has a chrome lined bore.

Note too the Walnut stock, full length cheek, the pewter furniture and Frontier Rifle trigger guard also in pewter.

The overall length of an MR is 48".

That is very likely the remnants of the tape used to secure the wedge keys from the factory.

Definitely one to grab up!
:hatsoff: :hatsoff: :hatsoff:
 
That's 47.5 I thought. Why does the edit feature of this site go on and off constantly?
 
Why does the edit feature of this site go on and off constantly?

You're only allowed up to 15 mins after posting to edit. after that you're sol.
 
DoubleDeuce 1 said:
The marks around the wedges could be adhesive left on from maybe a masking tape or something similar. Maybe the owner covered the wedges with tape to hold them in and keep from losing them :idunno: Then again, could be hammer marks. :hmm:

DD, you were correct. Scotch tape to hold wedge keys in. I sent the seller a message and that is what he told me.
 
Hopefully you will be able to clean off the tape residue easily, if you decide to get the rifle. :hmm:
 
Post up pics and text about your CVA Mountain Rifles here.

I'll start.

I have two.

My first is a 1981 Big Bore (54) that I built from a kit when I lived in a tent in Alaska. Five deer taken. After a 19 year layoff as a wall-hanger, I discovered that the bore was pitted to the point of tearing up patches and scatter shooting. I was able to find a NOS barrel from Deer Creek and redid the rifle with new sights and darkened the wood which is very plain maple. I also distressed all the metal.

The other lighter rifle I bought in 1999 used. It's a factory gun in .50. I have never shot it-the bore is good, but is slightly browned but not rough. I may clean it thoroughly before I put it away again.
It's exhibits a mass production feel but is still pleasant to look at. A definite candidate for wood refinishing since the varnish is peeling here and there.

standard.jpg


Factory rifle:

standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


My 1981 "rebuild":

standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg
What method did you use on the barrel?
 
Post up pics and text about your CVA Mountain Rifles here.

I'll start.

I have two.

My first is a 1981 Big Bore (54) that I built from a kit when I lived in a tent in Alaska. Five deer taken. After a 19 year layoff as a wall-hanger, I discovered that the bore was pitted to the point of tearing up patches and scatter shooting. I was able to find a NOS barrel from Deer Creek and redid the rifle with new sights and darkened the wood which is very plain maple. I also distressed all the metal.

The other lighter rifle I bought in 1999 used. It's a factory gun in .50. I have never shot it-the bore is good, but is slightly browned but not rough. I may clean it thoroughly before I put it away again.
It's exhibits a mass production feel but is still pleasant to look at. A definite candidate for wood refinishing since the varnish is peeling here and there.

standard.jpg


Factory rifle:

standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


My 1981 "rebuild":

standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg
Do you know what kind of finish is on the barrel?
 
My CVA Mountain Rifle .50 Cal., USA made barrel 1:66
Got this one from work, it was in need of lock and trigger work, also drum work.
Barrel crown needed cleaned up and the wood refinished, but the bore was pristine.

49479862873_dde7c548be.jpg


And this is how she shoots:

49551121617_4bfb76a730.jpg


49551145507_47d646d884.jpg
 
I am really enjoying seeing pictures of the variety of these Mountain rifles. It is so interesting to see how a common gun is developed into a unique piece that " makes it your own". Perhaps that's the real worth of these guns to the art of muzzleloading. The pictures remind me of a question that I have often wondered about. CVA Mountain rifles have a " notch" ( for lack of a better word) taken out of the wood that allows for hammer travel. Was this a CVA innovation in design? Is there historic precedent for this design? I see it on no other production guns. Why was it done? Did it allow for a slimmer profile in the lock area of the gun, and if so, why didn't other manufacturers find it necessary........??
 
The notch is there to accommodate the design of a flint lock hammer. The flint lock hammer depends on a ridge in the hammer stopping on the lock plate to prevent the flint from bashing into the pan. A percussion hammer will stop on the nipple.
 
OK, here's mine. Some of the pictures have been posted before. The pictures are of the rifle as I got it off a rendezvous blanket last year with no butt plate and how it ended up after I reworked some of the wood and refinished it. I decorated the wedge plates with a nail punch and a center punch to give them a little character. The barrel had a little rust at the muzzle and came with a stuck load but cleaned up nicely. Only have had out to the range once but was able to put two out of five shots in the center ring at 50 yds off of a rest once I figured out the POA. I've about $125.00 in it so I can't complain. Wanted to take it to the Alifia this year for the competition but played it safe and stayed home. :(
 

Attachments

  • CVA Mountain Rifle 01.jpg
    CVA Mountain Rifle 01.jpg
    125.2 KB
  • CVA Mountain Rifle 02.jpg
    CVA Mountain Rifle 02.jpg
    210.3 KB
  • Mountain Rifle Lock 01.JPG
    Mountain Rifle Lock 01.JPG
    470.4 KB
  • Mountain Rifle Lock 02.jpg
    Mountain Rifle Lock 02.jpg
    441.5 KB
  • Mountain Rifle stock 03.jpg
    Mountain Rifle stock 03.jpg
    288.5 KB
  • Mountain Rifle stock 04.jpg
    Mountain Rifle stock 04.jpg
    335 KB
  • Mountain rifle stock 01.JPG
    Mountain rifle stock 01.JPG
    397.3 KB
  • Mountain rifle stock 02.jpg
    Mountain rifle stock 02.jpg
    482 KB
You know what Grenadier, my question almost makes me embarrassed. I have 2 flintlocks and both have that ridge, I just looked. I have shot more than a dozen deer over the years and clean my guns religiously, but never considered the function of that ridge. That being the case, the notches in the wood of my guns are tiny and fairly obscured by the hammer when my guns are assembled.... while the notch on the Mountain rifle is large and pronounced and that is what made me ask. Can I assume ( rather sheepishly) the notch on a percussion Mountain rifle stock allows for a change from percussion to flint? Thanks for teaching me something that I should have known.
 
Back
Top