Having read the responses, and having worked over one GPR, I suggest you draw file and block sand to "de-emphasize" the factory markings, just working the raised portions down flush. A lot less work, and a lot less likely to mess up corners on flats and the match up with the tang piece.
I am pleased with the change in character realized by removing all the metal from the stock, stripping the blue with Brownell's blue remover, and refinishing with Laurel Mtn. Forge browning compound. In spite of the directions, I degreased with MEK or alcohol before applying the chemical solution. One of those long flat Wally Mart plastic boxes for storing things under a bed was used as a humidity chamber. Drove a pine plug into the muzzle, then supported barrel on plug and tang hook on two wood blocks. Applied chemical once a day for four days, rotated barrel 180 degrees a couple of times a day to even out distribution of the solution. Deactivated with baking soda solution, let sit several days, then warmed the barrel in the sun and rubbed in beeswax. Result has proven durable.
Did the same thing to the other metal parts, including the lock plate, hammer, and screws, but not the internals.
White Fox
'Nother thought: The climate in Boulder is semi-arid, and the stock wood dried out some, resulting in the nose cap loosening enough to rattle. I mixed up a bit of Acra-Gel and bedded the cap to the wood.