Did I break my revolver?

[bpd303]

There comes a point when percussive maintenance doesn't work. :grin:

 

[BowerR64]

If its was a .44 i might cry about it but since its a .36 ahh no sweat.

Dont get another .36

take everything apart and take pictures of every single part (including your .36 mold) Post it on e-bay and ill bet you get $150. for everything.

You might even sell that frame with the broken arbor!

Again, dont get another .36

stick with a .44

 

[cynthialee]

I agree with Bower.
Take it apart into component pieces and the parts that are good, sell.

 

[M. De Land]

Ooops sorry, forgot about that rule! Won't happen again.
Can I say "PM me some time and we will discuss your broken Model 51 privately"? Mike D.

 

[jethro224]

I used approx 18 grains of pyrodex with each shot. I say approx because I used a flask and before I went out I filled the nipple of the flask and weighed it at 16-18 grains when it is full.

I don't know how much 18 grains weight of Pyrodex is in relation to blackpowder, but I do know that 18 grains weight of Pyrodex is more than 18 grains weight of blackpowder. Pyrodex should be measured by VOLUME. It is lighter that blackpowder. The standard measure of real black should weigh what it says on your volume calibrated measure. Or close to it. Pyrodex will weigh less for an equivalent volume.
You were shooting a heavier load than you thought.

 

[cynthialee]

I know that weighed 72 grains of Pyrodex RS is the same volume as 100 grains of weighed Goex 2F.

that is to say your volumetric measure of 100 grains of Pyrodex weighs in at 72 grains

there is your math baseline

 

[jethro224]

OK, so roughly, without thinking too hard or breaking out the calculator, 18 weighed grains of Pyrodex should equal about 27 grains of Goex. A little heavy for a '51 Navy in .36 caliber. I don't know if that would have anything to do with the OP's problem. Maybe? :idunno:

 

[jaxenro]

D you have a pic of where the arbor broke?

 

[WolfSpring]

When I bought it I had no idea on what calibers they came in. I checked it on my phone and cabella's was selling it new for $250 so I figured $100 was good deal to get into it. I did learn though that an original 1851 navy was .36 cal so I thought that was cool. I've got a mold for .36 balls now so I guess I could hold on to it it was only $18 maybe down the road find another pawn shop gun. There a couple other one's I like better. I have my Ruger, thinking of getting a single shot "pirate gun" and possibly a flintlock later. I've taken it fully apart before, it's the first thing I did, cleaned it up. Read up on all the parts to look at to see if they were going bad. I'm thinking the comment about 18 grains of pyrodex not equaling 18 of BP is probably something to do with it. It nearly filled the cylinder I could not have put a patch in, I was told not to shoot with a patch and just put grease/bore butter/etc covering the bullet to seal the cylinder IF I was shooting more than one shot to avoid chain fire. I loaded one at a time. Here are some pictuers I took of the break. I think it's done don't think it will shoot again the frame is the part it connects to I can't find a frame online for less than $150 and for that I might as well throw in the other $100 and get a brand new gun. If I could find someone to replace the arbor it would probably be more the $100 as well. I'll put it in the box of stuff I got for a later date and maybe after I retire and have some free time I'll take a look at getting it fixed. I'll look into the idea of Ebaying the parts. This thing was pretty beat up to start with so I'm not sure how that will go.

Thanks all for the help.

EDIT: Oh yeah I did take the wedge out, it is in there now so I don't loose it.

 

[54ball]

If its was a .44 i might cry about it but since its a .36 ahh no sweat.

Dont get another .36

take everything apart and take pictures of every single part (including your .36 mold) Post it on e-bay and ill bet you get $150. for everything.

You might even sell that frame with the broken arbor!

Again, dont get another .36

stick with a .44

Huhh?

So are you saying a .44 would have most likely survived, stop....Hammer Time?

or

A .36 is worthless and if you are going to beat a revolver to death, the .36 Navy Colt is the one to pummel to pieces?

Personally I find the .36 Navy about perfect, so did Hickock.

I really am at a loss. I hate waste. The revolver may have been a lost cause but the OP said it did function. I don't know, It's almost like the OP did not care, almost trying to break it because " it was cheap".

Then there this .36 vs.44 Baloney.

I Guess the lesson here is if something is locked up, take take time to look and find out why instead of reaching for the nearest hammer. These designs are tough but it must be remembered that as "tough" as they are , they are still delicate and precise instruments and need to be treated as such.
When problems arise use Brain not Brawn.

 

[jethro224]

$14. for the part. If you can get the broken off piece out without further damage... http://www.taylorsfirearms.com/parts/pietta-parts/pietta-1851-navy-parts.html

 

[WolfSpring]

I had no intention of breaking it and I do care, it's still $100. But the fact is it happened and there is nothing I can do about it. If I do get another 1851 it will be .36. I've got a Ruger so I've got a 44/45. I like shooting the 1851. I know I probably shouldn't have used the hammer, but I did not hit it that hard or that many times and the fact the cylinder was the part jamming in what more could have been done? ONly other thing I can think was to sand down the arbor a little see if it would have slid off, lessons learned and $100 is a cheap lesson compared to some other stuff.

 

[D Sanders]

This sight may also have your part. http://www.vtigunparts.com/store/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=66&cat=Pietta+1851+Navy

HH 60

 

[Tinker2]

Relatively easy to put a new one in.
Getting the old one out, not so easy.



.36 a good choice

William Alexander

 

[WolfSpring]

We have options yay! Now I have to find out how to remove that pin. Google time. If I find what I need I"ll put post it on here for others to learn.

 

[Leatherbark]

:applause: Rubber Mallet vs. Pietta Steel

Bob

 

[Wes/Tex]

To have separated down in the breach face like that makes me think you just got a bad forging. I've never seen one do that in nearly 50 years of playing with the things. Unless your hammer was a two-handed, big ole hummer, it shouldn't have snapped like that. I t might be worth sending an Email to Pietta and see what they have to say about those photos!

 

[Zonie]

I'll admit I have never removed a cylinder arbor but I've read somewhere that they are screwed into the frame.

The problem is there is a small pin that is installed to keep the arbor from unscrewing.

Looking over my Colt opentops to find the pin hasn't been very productive. I think I can sorta see it down in the hammer notch but I'm not real sure. If I am looking at it, it was machined flush with the area around it.

Hopefully, someone who has really taken out one of these arbors will chime in and let us know exactly where the retaining pin is? (Assuming it exists). :grin:

It's just my opinion but if this was a brass frame pistol I wouldn't bother messing with it.

It is a steel frame pistol and it's a shame to see one broken they way this one is. It probably deserves fixing.

 

[Tinker2]

The Cylinder arbor is treaded in and held in place with a pin in a blind hole that keeps it from turning.

Removing the pin in the blind hole can be a hassle.

The pin is half in the frame and half in the Cylinder arbor at the top.


I have seen three guns that were repaired like that, so it is doable.


William Alexander

 

[Zonie]

Do you recall where the pin was located?