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paper cartridges for my different revolvers

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I also have the brass framed 1858 Remington. I use 30 grains of triple 7 in it with no issues. I also started making the paper cartridges for it as well and they work great.
20240224_203307.jpg
 
How long is the completed cartridge?
Mine look to be about 32.5 mm. The main determinent of cartridge length is that upon ramming the ball be completely seated down in the chamber. They will compress a bit. I don't recall offhand what the depth of a .44 cal chamber is.

Complete materials kit, not including nitrating process:
IMG_4237.JPG

You'll note both cartridges are topped off with about five grains of cerial filler. Helps to keep the bore cleaner. Also, the ball in the cartridge on the left is glued INTO the top of an OPEN cartridge envelope by rolling the ball in the glue and inserting; whereas the ball on the right is glued ONTO the top of a CLOSED cartridge envelope by applying the glue to the closed top and mounting the ball onto it. Neither ball has been lubed. Not necessary and is extra messy when loading, but you can always lube after loading if you want your chamber topped off with lube.

This process is not precise. It's an art to a certain degree. Why you find different instructions, different kits, different templates, etc. Play around with them all and find what works best for you.
 
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Guns of the West makes great kits in .36 and .44 calibers. Very easy and simple to make. I usually stay at 17 grains for .36 and 25 grains for 44. My Dragoon and R&S take heavier loads of 35 to 45 grains, 50 grains tops once in a while to make extra smoke and super loud boom!😆
 
Mine look to be about 32.5 mm. The main determinent of cartridge length is that upon ramming the ball be completely seated down in the chamber. They will compress a bit. I don't recall offhand what the depth of a .44 cal chamber is.

Complete materials kit, not including nitrating process:
View attachment 306021
You'll note both cartridges are topped off with about five grains of cerial filler. Helps to keep the bore cleaner. Also, the ball in the cartridge on the left is glued INTO the top of an OPEN cartridge envelope by rolling the ball in the glue and inserting; whereas the ball on the right is glued ONTO the top of a CLOSED cartridge envelope by applying the glue to the closed top and mounting the ball onto it. Neither ball has been lubed. Not necessary and is extra messy when loading, but you can always lube after loading if you want your chamber topped off with lube.

This process is not precise. It's an art to a certain degree. Why you find different instructions, different kits, different templates, etc. Play around with them all and find what works best for you.
Thank you!
 
To the OP : each of your revolvers may shoot differently with the same powder/ball combination so it would be best to check out your favorite load in each of your revolvers first. Once you find the best load for all your revolvers then work on making the paper cartridges. Otherwise, you may have to make individual paper cartridges for each of your revolvers to get the best out of them.
 
Yes, of course. I responded to your other question in another thread, and here I'm attaching Pedersoli's powder loading instructions, which you can use as a guide to your loads and balls specs. I also have an 1851 Colt Navy, and it's probably my favorite cap 'n ball revolver. Have fun rolling and shooting!!
Great loading data help Wisecoaster for Pedersoli shooters :thumb:
Relic shooter
 
I use one of Dustin's kits, I ordered one with both 36 and 44. With the built in powder measurer, using 3F, it is 17 grains. My 36 Navy shoots better than I can with them.
You saying you have a Colt 1851 in .36 cal, I have a question about one I have. It's a Colt 1851 in .36 cal. (Uberti), had it tuned by Goonies Gun Works. Got the gun back from shop and decided to install the Slixshot nipples (had a hard time getting the wedge out). Installed the new nipples, then the problem popped up. I can't get the wedge to go back in ... I hit it pretty hard with a plastic headed hammer, still won't go all the way in ? I called Goonies and Mike said you have to hit the wedge pretty hard, I did that with no success.

Any ideas seeing how many of you guys have the same revolver ??? Any help would be great ...
 
.... I can't get the wedge to go back in ... I hit it pretty hard with a plastic headed hammer, still won't go all the way in ? I called Goonies and Mike said you have to hit the wedge pretty hard, I did that with no success.
....
Did you try tapping the muzzle with your mallet so as to make sure the barrel assembly was seated properly before trying to drive the wedge in?
 
You saying you have a Colt 1851 in .36 cal, I have a question about one I have. It's a Colt 1851 in .36 cal. (Uberti), had it tuned by Goonies Gun Works. Got the gun back from shop and decided to install the Slixshot nipples (had a hard time getting the wedge out). Installed the new nipples, then the problem popped up. I can't get the wedge to go back in ... I hit it pretty hard with a plastic headed hammer, still won't go all the way in ? I called Goonies and Mike said you have to hit the wedge pretty hard, I did that with no success.

Any ideas seeing how many of you guys have the same revolver ??? Any help would be great ...
Make sure the barrel is all the way seated. A good tap with a non marring mallet should do the trick.
 
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