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Did I break my revolver?
- Thread starter WolfSpring
- Start date
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Wolfspring, Check out left handed drill bits from Snap on. While your looking for tooling, soak the base of that pin with Kroil or Liquid Wrench. A lot of times just trying to drill the hole with the left handed bit it will come right out, if your lucky. If not use an easy outer type tool, there are several out there. Did you ever find out why the cylinder was stuck on? I was thinking cap debris holding the bolt up into the cylinder notch. I don't see any damage in your pics. What does the inside of the cylinder look like? This should be an easy fix.
Oh, and 54ball, that's just Bower, he's a little set in his ways and knows what HE likes.
Oh, and 54ball, that's just Bower, he's a little set in his ways and knows what HE likes.
Is this the end of the retaining pin?
If so, it is right about where I thought I saw the upper end of a pin in the hammer notch in the frame.
It was quite close to the front of the frame in the notch.
If that is the end of the pin, a little work with a small Dremel grinding bit could grind it off.
Come to think about it, the pin and arbor are soft steel so careful use of a 3/32 inch drill bit and an electric drill could just drill it away.
Then, drilling a hole in the remains of the old arbor would allow an Easy Out to be screwed into the arbor to remove it.
If I were doing this and I was successful at removing the old arbor remnants I wouldn't mess with trying to drill a new hole and installing a new pin.
I would just goop up the new arbors threads with Red "Permanent" Loc-Tite and be done with it.
If so, it is right about where I thought I saw the upper end of a pin in the hammer notch in the frame.
It was quite close to the front of the frame in the notch.
If that is the end of the pin, a little work with a small Dremel grinding bit could grind it off.
Come to think about it, the pin and arbor are soft steel so careful use of a 3/32 inch drill bit and an electric drill could just drill it away.
Then, drilling a hole in the remains of the old arbor would allow an Easy Out to be screwed into the arbor to remove it.
If I were doing this and I was successful at removing the old arbor remnants I wouldn't mess with trying to drill a new hole and installing a new pin.
I would just goop up the new arbors threads with Red "Permanent" Loc-Tite and be done with it.
Zonie said:Is this the end of the retaining pin?
Yes.
Should be able to drive the pin out toward the hammer with a drift punch.
I would put a pin back in.
But I have gone the “Loc-Tite” route and it works.
William Alexander
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May have been a blessing in disguise that it broke on you as it may have been fractured from the factory and perhaps let go on you while shooting it.
It really is not going to be a big deal to fix if you have any mechanical ability and a few tools. Mike D.
It really is not going to be a big deal to fix if you have any mechanical ability and a few tools. Mike D.
I now this link is for the 1847 Walker, but they look, to me at least, to all be assembled the same. This exploded view shows the location of the parts.
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufa...ers-42389/1847ColtWalker-37936.htm?results=40
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufa...ers-42389/1847ColtWalker-37936.htm?results=40
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Well i dont know where you live but where i live .36 stuff isnt as easy to find stuff for. The .36 i had needed .380 balls and everything i could find for them were .375 they were just a bit loose for my taste. Even the wads i found for the .36 were oily and a little to large i just didnt find much support for the .36
I understand its historicly accurate or what ever but i find the .44 has more support for it over the .36
Its just my opinion though
I understand its historicly accurate or what ever but i find the .44 has more support for it over the .36
Its just my opinion though
54ball
62 Cal.
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Track of the wolf can get you set up in .380 caliber ball.
If you want to cast your own, there's Lyman molds or for about the same money Larry Callahan can build you a custom mold for .380.
More and more I have found I have to depend on mail order companies to supply my needs. That's just how it is these days. It's really no big deal, at least for me.
If you want to cast your own, there's Lyman molds or for about the same money Larry Callahan can build you a custom mold for .380.
More and more I have found I have to depend on mail order companies to supply my needs. That's just how it is these days. It's really no big deal, at least for me.
WolfSpring
32 Cal.
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Well the pin came out nicely I was able to push it from the broke side. Turning the Arbor is a problem I put the post back on it and can turn it a 1/4 turn each direction, anyone have a clue if this is normal or bastard threaded? I would think normal.
inlikeflint
32 Cal.
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If you could cut a slot in it with a dremel cut off wheel you should be able to turn it out with a screw driver. Threads might be a little rough from the pin that you removed. john
WolfSpring
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Only one's I see on there are .44, are they same diameter as the .36? And the arbor is only $14 brand new. I'm pretty sure I've got a steel frame.
WolfSpring
32 Cal.
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I've got a 2 cavity .375 mold cost me $18 on sale from midwayusa.
WolfSpring
32 Cal.
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I got it out and it is standard threaded righty tighty lefty loosy. Also found out that if you pull the hammer back it's easier to screw it in and comes out the back end by the hammer then to try and bring it back out. Used a drill and it bit into it and threaded it out the back end easily. Will be getting the part soon and get it in there and report back then.
Thank you all for the help on this.
Thank you all for the help on this.
You may find when you install the part it may not be indexed correctly for the wedge slot. It will be sort of like fitting a breechplug. You will have to file some as you tighten in order for the wedge slot to index correct and the pin snug up very tight at the same time. Let's hope it is not 180 degrees out of phase and the keeper pin slot is on the wrong side. Then you will contour the back of what is sticking out with the curved rear of the frame. Then after you have it in and lined up next comes making sure the barrel fits and also the wedge. Not only the small pins at the bottom but the new cylinder pin should bottom out in its barrel hole at the same time the wedge is tight. You may or may not have to file the end of the pin. If it is short like an Uberti then there are fixes but are unorthodox. Thought I would give you a head start. Hopefully Pietta have the threads all indexed correctly now that these things are CNC machined (most likely) and everything snugs up and lines up A-OK. I dealt with cylinder pins in pietta's a longtime ago.
Let us know and good luck
Bob
Let us know and good luck
Bob
