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True Bill, and good point! Mike D.
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Did I break my revolver?
- Thread starter WolfSpring
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CaptainKirk
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I suspect if the barrel was fully seated against the frame your cylinder gap would be perfectly acceptable.Is one of your two frame alignment pins bent or not fully seated?
CaptainKirk
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WolfSpring said:
As you can see there is a gap and the wedge is completely through. If I were to file anymore it would not do me any good. I am not 100% sure but from my understanding this is a steel frame, a magnet sticks to it. There is Brass strapping on the the trigger guard and backstrap. I do appreciate all of this input thank you.
This is a steel frame.
Sorry I didn't get back to this earlier. As Bill pointed out, the barrel and frame are not fully in contact where they should touch at the bottom of the barrel. Zonie is also correct, this may not be a problem of sufficient severity to make the pistol unsafe. Accuracy will probably suffer a bit from the distance between cylinder face and forcing cone in the barrel breech. About the only solution to bring things back is to get another half turn on the arbor to bring the entire set up back so the frame and barrel pull up tightly. I've never had to go through this problem and can only give you my best guess from the photos and your description. You're on the right track, just stay with it.
Now we are getting somewhere. Take your arbor back out. I'm assuming when you seated it until that the shoulder behind the threads bottomed out and you thought all looked good.
If the shoulder of the arbor pin is solidly against the frame you will need to file/mill the shoulder back slightly in order to screw the pin in either 1/2 turn or a full turn. I'd check the fit of everything after 1/2 turn. This will close up that barrel/cyl gap and frame gap and the wedge will not be sticking all the way through so easily.
Now when you are done the pin will be sticking out of the back of the frame if it isn't already and will have to be ground down. The last thing you would do after closing up the gap. Your getting there for sure and we have confidence in you!
If the shoulder of the arbor pin is solidly against the frame you will need to file/mill the shoulder back slightly in order to screw the pin in either 1/2 turn or a full turn. I'd check the fit of everything after 1/2 turn. This will close up that barrel/cyl gap and frame gap and the wedge will not be sticking all the way through so easily.
Now when you are done the pin will be sticking out of the back of the frame if it isn't already and will have to be ground down. The last thing you would do after closing up the gap. Your getting there for sure and we have confidence in you!
WolfSpring
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A lot of filing done now, I was so worried I was going to mess up the threads on this thing but in the end it all worked out. Thank you all for leading me through this I can not wait to get this back to the range.
Filed a good bit off.
Might do some touch up here, but the gap is gone the safety engages fine and the timing is perfect. Wedge fits snugly actually had to file some of the front inside of the arbor to slide it through. I do believe it is "tighter" than when I first got it. The only problem I have now is no keeper pin in there, i filed it to where it is a tight twist to get it lined up. I think that will work, is there any reason it wouldn't?
Thanks again everyone for helping me go from broken gun to better understanding my gun and getting it tweaked a little better.
Filed a good bit off.
Might do some touch up here, but the gap is gone the safety engages fine and the timing is perfect. Wedge fits snugly actually had to file some of the front inside of the arbor to slide it through. I do believe it is "tighter" than when I first got it. The only problem I have now is no keeper pin in there, i filed it to where it is a tight twist to get it lined up. I think that will work, is there any reason it wouldn't?
Thanks again everyone for helping me go from broken gun to better understanding my gun and getting it tweaked a little better.
I think you've got it. I would do as Zonnie suggested and get some red permanent Loc-Tite at any auto parts store. A drop or two on the treads will keep the arbor from loosening... good job. :thumbsup:
Leave it together like it is for now and shoot it. Then if it shoots, loads and operates ok then Peen the end of the arbor over where it exits the frame at the rear with a center punch along the edges. Should work as good as that little pin did as a locking device.
Good Show
Bob
Good Show
Bob
