• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Different black powders

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Swiss and OE have more power than Goex. They're more consistent which could mean more accurate but not always.

Nothing wrong with Goex. If you want more powder use more.
 
It's usually more than powder make. Powder load, patch thickness and material, and lube all come into good groups. It takes some experimenting.
 
Lots of difference, I have some elephant that’s pretty dirty and I mix it 1/4 with GO. When I got in to the sport Curtis Harvey was a Scottish maker. Charge for charge it produced lower velocities but testing showed that when you busted the charge to get the same velocity you got much lower breech pressures.
Back in the old days people got powder testers, because powder could vary so much
 
Howdy Mr. Iron!

There are a number of powders out there and each of them showcasing something unique to set themselves apart. The main differences are going to be either a formulation/recipe or fit/finish. Both will affect how the powder burns and result in different 'power' and different fouling! The main recipe factor most folks talk about is the charcoal source (which wood is used) You can imagine that different woods behave different when burned. Some are cleaner, some are more energy dense, some burn faster, etc. The recipe also will dictate how much and what type of fouling. Some powders create softer fouling, some harder fouling.

The other half of the powder discussion is the processing it goes through. We use the 'g' rated powder (Fg, FFg, FFFg, etc). there is also 'a' powders (Fa, FFa, FFFa etc). The 'a' powders are less refined, less consistent, not polished. This is common in fireworks and blasting powder. Our powder is polished (each manufacturer to different extents) and may even be lubricated with something like graphite to help the powder pours and flow through horns and flasks. The granulation sizes are 'ballpark' as it is 'screened' and the quality of the screening process varies by manufacturer. I believe Swiss even makes something called Caviar Ball Powder where they polish their powder to very consistent 'balls'.

I am not experienced with all the manufactured powders out there so I dare not enter the fray as to which powder is best for you. Only to say that as with all thinks muzzleloading, it's best to try out what works best in YOUR firearm.

All the best!
 
The polishing and graphite actually slow down the burn rate of a powder. "A" grade powder tend to have a more jagged shape with edges that catch fire faster and the graphite will "mask" the radiant energy that burning grains produce. When I make display balls and want the stars NOT to produce trails, but burst out away from each other I prime with a heavy graphite coating. That way the stars are "blind" until it reaches the burst core.
The benefit of a polish all the way to round ball shape is a more consistent burn rate. Different piles of the same amount of powder with random shape grains can burn vastly different. In lift charges and sky displays you really can't tell the difference but when you are trying to consistently put lead into the same circle it makes a big difference.
 
On Graf's site, I see 1F listed as musket powder, 2F listed as rifle powder, 3F listed as pistol powder, and 4 F listed as priming powder. Where did these labels come from?
 
I used to use schutzen. It wasn’t available so I got some Goex. Is it my imagination or does Goex leave more of a tar-like residue in a flintlock pan?
 
I used to use schutzen. It wasn’t available so I got some Goex. Is it my imagination or does Goex leave more of a tar-like residue in a flintlock pan?
It is my own experience here in Florida that GOEX has a softer (tar like) fouling in the higher humidity. Swiss and Old Ensford(made by GOEX) seem drier and more... flaky? Best word I have to describe it.
ymmv depending on charge, grain size, humidity, and how long ya go before wiping the pan clean.
 
I have been shooting in fairly dry conditions. I will see what the fouling is like as the weather here in Michigan gets more humid. Thanks!
 
I've always used mostly Dupont and Goex powders. When all I could get was Elephant I used it with satisfaction. I've also used a couple other brands and even fired a few shots with Swiss. In 55 years I have yet to come across any powder noticeably cleaner than another. There's no such thing as "clean" black powder.
 
I agree. I used to shoot a lot of Swiss powder. I now use Goex. I don't see much difference in fouling. Maybe a bit less with Swiss but that's more from not having to use as much powder. Equal load for load and they're close.
 
Back
Top