Do I need to take the lock off to clean it on a Lyman GPR FL?

[Valley Forge]

I've got a .50 Cal Lyman GPR flintlock rifle. I have been shooting for about 3 years, and during that time I always meticulously clean the barrel after every range trip according to the cleaning instructions provided by Chuck Dixon at Dixon's Gun Shop in PA. Neither his printed directions, nor the manual that came with the rifle mentions or give directions for taking off the lock to clean it. I have looked at the lock, and I actually am not sure how I'd go about removing it, even if I found out that I should indeed do so. I try to lubricate the surfaces of the hammer that bear on the lock plate, and I try to lubricate the pivot for the frizzen, and I get neither of those things done in any useful way.

Am I supposed to be taking the lock off to clean it? If so, how do I do that?

 

[AZbpBurner]

Get adventurous! Look at the side opposite your lock - there's a screw within a bushing - it secures your lock. Remove the screw & you can work out the lock.

Since you've never had it apart before, NOW is the time to disassemble, clean & refit your lock. The little time it takes will make for much smoother lock operation. Some fine polishing with a fine rubber Dremel abrasive tip over friction points & some light oil afterward will make a noticeable improvement.

If you see a lot of crud, residue & maybe even some pitting underneath your lock, the answer to your question will be clear. If it looks clean & OK, then you can skate on taking off he lock at every cleaning (I remove mine after every trip to the range & always have a buncha' stuff to clean out).

I recently bought a Lyman Deerstalker that someone bought 30 years ago, fired maybe once or twice, then put away with insufficient cleaning. There's some fine pitting where the lock meets the barrel & around the breech.

Clean it & maintain it today & your grandkids won't curse you behind your back 30 years later when you pass it on to them ...

 

[hanshi]

Short answer: YES.

 

[Zonie]

IMO, You should really clean the lock when you clean the gun.

There's all sorts of powder granuals and powder flash fouling that works its way down in there while your shooting.

Also, the lock is a machine.
Like all machines it needs to be lubricated so it won't wear out. You can't lubricate the lock while it's still installed on the gun.

To remove the lock it sometimes helps to remove the barrel first.
Then, use a screw driver that fits that big screw on the lock panel opposite the side the lock is on.

Loosen the screw about 2 full turns.
Then, using the screw driver handle or a non metallic mallet tap the screw head to drive it back down against the steel washer that's under it.

This tapping will cause the lock to start to move out of the mortice in the wood.
Unscrewing the screw another turn, give it another tap and then completely remove the screw from the gun.

By now, the lock should be loose enough so that with a slight rocking and pull it should fall free of the mortice.

A old tooth brush and some light weight oil will do a fine job of cleaning off any debris.
Then lightly oil the moving parts, wipe off any oil drips and reinstall the lock in the reverse order (without the tapping).

Your lock will thank you by working as it should for years to come.

 

[Many Klatch]

You need to take the lock off each time and clean it. If nothing else, dump it in a bucket of water and then attack it with an old toothbrush. Duelist1954 has a good video of how to partially disassemble the lock https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivTWnV_rwJ0

I recommend that you learn how to take the lock apart to clean it better. I'll bet that you have some rust spots inside of your lock at this time and you will need to do some sanding with a 400 grit to clean it up.

I completely take my locks down and clean them about every other time that I use them. For simple field cleaning I remove the lock and oil it and brush off any crud from the moving surfaces whenever I clean the barrel at the end of the day.

Many Klatch

 

[BullRunBear]

I remove and clean the lock on my GPR after each session. Loosens the screws on the left side of the stock and gently work the lock out of the mortise. I wipe it down with hot water using patches and an old toothbrush. When it is completely dry, I use a pinpoint oiler with RemOil on the moving parts, which has served me well for years. By cleaning the lock each time the process is quick and keeps corrosion from getting started. The key is to be gentle removing and reinserting the lock so no wood gets chipped out.

Jeff

 

[Billnpatti]

Yes, you absolutely need to remove and clean your lock after every time you fire it. It is a simple task to remove it. Loosen the lock screw several turns and then tap it with something like a wooden or plastic mallet to loosen your lock from the mortise. Finish removing the screw and remove the lock. Then, I have a very easy and effective way to clean it. Take it outside away from the house and away from any plants that you don't want to damage and thoroughly spray it with automobile brake cleaner. This stuff is very effective at cleaning your lock and it is not expensive. You can find it at any automobile parts store or in the automotive section at Wal-Mart. However, you do not want to get it on your stock or on any plants that you don't want to damage. After thoroughly flushing out your lock, shake off any excess fluid and either blow it dry with compressed air if you have it or just let it air dry. Then lightly oil it. Too much oil will just collect crud when you shoot. Replace it in your stock and you are done with it's cleaning. Quick, easy and effective. :thumbsup: Oh, don't forget to wear some kind of protective eyewear because that stuff really stings if you get some in your eyes.

 

[Mr.D123]

I clean the lock with a toothbrush in soap and water. I dry thoroughly and oil lightly.
I clean after every shoot. I also clean the residue off the stock where the lock sits. It makes for a cleaner and much nicer rifle.

 

[Black Hand]

I try to lubricate the surfaces of the hammer that bear on the lock plate...

If your hammer is bearing on the lockplate then your lock is not performing at its best. The hammer should move freely on the pivot without any contact with the plate (except at the positive stop when the hammer is fully down).

Yes - you should remove your lock to clean and lubricate.

 

[bpd303]

I have a replica Kentucky made in Spain and there is a slight gap of about 5-10 thousands between the lock & barrel so slight it was hard to see. It was bad for fouling from the pan getting into the lock innards. I made a leather gasket to go between the barrel and lock which eliminated the problem but I still pull the lock at every cleaning to lube it for a smoother action. She fires like greased lightening.

 

[Black Hand]

Inlet your lock slightly deeper.

 

[pa woods roamer]

When taking out the Lock, on My GPR Flinter, I set the back Trigger and put the Hammer on half Cock. Also do this when re-installing. .

 

[bpd303]

Inlet your lock slightly deeper.

Inleting the lock deeper still would not seal out the combustion gasses like the thin leather seal does. It is the only flintlock that I have that has no crud inside the lock after firing.

 

[Black Hand]

Inlet your lock slightly deeper.

Inleting the lock deeper still would not seal out the combustion gasses like the thin leather seal does. It is the only flintlock that I have that has no crud inside the lock after firing.

Sounds like you have poor lock fit on your other flintlocks as well...

 

[jdkerstetter]

How do you accomodate for the gap at the pan cover barrel junction? Seems as though manure could be getting in and prime leakin' out. Not good.

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[hthomso]

I clean the lock with every use. Too much gunk to let accumulate. I agree with what others have said. Get familiar with your gun, take the lock apart, see how it works. Muzzleloaders are not too complex.

 

[MFordney]

Duelist1954 has a good video of how to partially disassemble the lock https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivTWnV_rwJ0

I recommend that you learn how to take the lock apart to clean it better.

That video doesn't apply to a factory GPR flintlock. The lock uses a coil mainspring. I've never tried to take mine apart... if you simply scrub it with a toothbrush and some cleaning solvent, then oil it, it will be fine. You definitely do need to take it out and clean it after every outing, though. :hatsoff:

 

[Zonie]

You hit the nail on the head.

The thing is, the owner doesn't have to take the lock apart to clean it.
All they have to do is to remove it, clean off the crud, oil it and reinstall it.

 

[Many Klatch]

Oops, I have never seen a GPR lock. That's what I get for assuming. Surely the GPR lock is designed to come apart though. I'm not sure I would want a lock that I couldn't futz with.

Many Klatch

 

[Black Hand]

Oops, I have never seen a GPR lock. That's what I get for assuming. Surely the GPR lock is designed to come apart though. I'm not sure I would want a lock that I couldn't futz with.

Many Klatch

Having disassembled a coil-spring lock, I wouldn't recommend it. They are certainly simpler in design, but not easy to take apart....