Do most builders engrave their own builds?

[Billnpatti]

Jerry,

If you have a methhod for cutting a straight line with a graver, please share it with me. I bought a single graver and one of the little hammers and I have several pieces of botrh brass and steel to practice on. What I lack is practice and knowing just how to do certain things such as cutting a nice line. My few abortive attempts have shown me that I can't even cut a straight line and keep the depth of the graver even throughout the length of the line. Any help you could give me would certainly be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bill

 

[Supercracker]

Jerry,

If you have a methhod for cutting a straight line with a graver, please share it with me.

If you could be so kind, I would also love to be included in the sharing of this knowledge. Although, I seem to be lacking more in consistency of depth/line width than straightness.

 

[kaintuck]

It's a magic spell......I tried engraving.....more like ruining a good piece of brass is what I did.
So I have it figured out......I just haven't taken the trip to New Orleans yet, and I need to find a one eyed bat, tears from a blond virgin tv news anchor, and hens teeth.....I understand they use them somehow in the potion......

Marc n tom tom

 

[Capt. Fred]

You can do it Marc. Start out simple and practice just cutting basic lines at first. Well you are doing this, get some mail order eye of newt and you should be good to go!

:grin:

Ken Moors

 

[dave_person]

Hi Bill and Supercracker,
I do quite a bit of engraving. First, practice on mild steel rather than brass. Steel is harder but the density is more consistent than brass. That helps a lot while learning. You cannot engrave an even line or smooth scroll unless your graver is sharpened correctly. The face should angle back 45-50 degrees from vertical and you have to have a tiny facet-like heel stoned on the bottom of the tip. Schipper's and Meek's books show that heel well. It enables you to cut to an even depth without constantly digging deeper into the metal. I use Lindsay sharpening templates and diamond and ceramic stones to sharpen my gravers (often). Once your tools are sharpened correctly, then scribe a light line on some practice steel and start cutting NEXT to that line, not on it. Pretend that each 1/4 inch is the whole job and cut a clean straight line along the scribed line for that 1/4 inch. Use light rapid taps of the hammer. The lighter and more rapid the taps, the smoother the line and curves. If you are doing it right with a sharp tool, a single curl of steel of even thickness will grow smoothly on the tip of your graver. When that happens, you know you are making progress cutting an even line. After cutting some 2-3 inch lines then try to cut parallel lines and then parallel lines of different thickness. Always think of the job as perfectly cut 1/4" or 1/2" sections and don't get impatient. Once you can comfortably cut in steel then try brass sheet and then cast brass. They will be a little harder to work with because of inconsistent density and an almost wood-grain like quality.

dave

 

[Supercracker]

I also use the Lindsey system for sharpening and the GRS graver holders.

For practice plates I've been using electrical junction box cover plates. They're like $.75 and 4"x4". Hot glue to a 2x4 block, sand off the galvanization real quick and it's cheap, mild steel practice plates.

I was drawing out a series of lines, circles, ellipses and spirals for practice. Up until a moved a couple of months ago I was getting fairly consistent with everything but the lines. As soon as I get the new shop all set up I'll get back to doing a practice plate every couple of days.

 

[jerrywh]

click on my name and send me a personal email.
It's too long to post on the forum.