• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Do you disassemble fully to clean every shooting session?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I haven't fired my EMF 1860 Colt Army in probably 30 years. I pulled it out of the back of the vault a coupla weeks ago (kept in a soft pistol case), and was pleasantly surprised to find no rust at all. Complete disassembly and thorough cleaning is needed at least occasionally.

That idea of packing the pistol with grease seems more than reasonable.
 
I didn't dissassemble past removing the cylinder after each shooting session.
I did dunk the frame in got water, and brush the hand and locking lug areas with a toothbrush, at least half the time, then lube well.
A complete tear down to bare frame was maybe once every 10 to 15 shooting sessions, when I had revolvers, be tbey a open top "Colt" 1851 Navy or 1860 Army, or a solid top "Remington 1858 New Army"

Barrel and cylinder were cleaned after each session.

Most of my "shooting" was at CW reenactments, using blanks.
 
Yep sorry. I should clarify I meant taking apart all the screws. The gun in pieces hammer removed from frame.
I shoot the good ones one or more times per week. In a good week it might be daily and when I retire I plan to do a lot more of it... If I completely stripped them every time I’d need to mount my screwdriver bits in the cordless drill ...
 
First let me say I am retired and have a range in my back yard. I shoot a little almost every day using various open top Colt style revolvers.
For that reason I clean a lot and have a very simple efficient system.
Stripping down to a bare frame is done about every 200 or so rounds, or sooner if the gun feels gritty then it hits the cleaning bench.
Now understand I only shoot original black powder GOEX, KIK, or Du Pont and occasionally American Pioneer Powder in one of it's other labels such as Jim Shockey's Gold or Black MZ.
I have absolutely no personal knowledge of Pyrodex or 777 and am not interested in gaining any. I have very harsh feelings about them understanding there are areas that only the substitutes are available..
If you are shooting a perchlorate containing "substitute" for real Black Powder I would suggest you clean completely, immediately, and thoroughly especially if you are in a humid climate.
Long answer to a question, it boils down to it depends on what propellant you use and how humid it is.
There is some interesting information on the CAS City forum in the "Powder Room" section on substitutes.
Well worth reading and pondering,
Load 'em heavy boys
They air a'comin'
Bunk
 
I clean my bore and cylinder with a patched jag, and then everything I can get with a toothbrush with Dawn all under running water. With the grips off I then blast every crack and crevice of the frame with the kitchen sink hose for a minute or so. I spray the water all down between the hammer and frame, then turn it over and spray through the trigger opening. I shake it all dry then blast everything with WD 40 to displace any water. When I go to shoot again I hit everything with brake cleaner to remove the WD40. Every year or so I’ll disassemble and as of yet I’ve never found any rust or much of any debris.
 
I have 1851 Colt Navy’s. I will generally not clean beyond the barrel, exposed frame, cylinders at the end of a days shooting. I will take them apart fully If they are to be put away for more then a week
 
First let me say I am retired and have a range in my back yard. I shoot a little almost every day using various open top Colt style revolvers.
For that reason I clean a lot and have a very simple efficient system.
Stripping down to a bare frame is done about every 200 or so rounds, or sooner if the gun feels gritty then it hits the cleaning bench.
Now understand I only shoot original black powder GOEX, KIK, or Du Pont and occasionally American Pioneer Powder in one of it's other labels such as Jim Shockey's Gold or Black MZ.
I have absolutely no personal knowledge of Pyrodex or 777 and am not interested in gaining any. I have very harsh feelings about them understanding there are areas that only the substitutes are available..
If you are shooting a perchlorate containing "substitute" for real Black Powder I would suggest you clean completely, immediately, and thoroughly especially if you are in a humid climate.
Long answer to a question, it boils down to it depends on what propellant you use and how humid it is.
There is some interesting information on the CAS City forum in the "Powder Room" section on substitutes.
Well worth reading and pondering,
Load 'em heavy boys
They air a'comin'
Bunk
You’re my hero Bunk and when I grow up (Retire.) I want to be just like you!
 
Every time. Both my revolvers are ’stainless’ even so they get dis-assembled and put in the dishwasher after every outing. If I don’t do that, even with the best clean, this happens inside the frame.

123BC8D3-0684-4B0C-96AC-7D06CDC7AEB1.jpeg

that’s pitting from the gun’s time with a previous owner and some powder residue from me firing 36 round balls.

They give me enormous pleasure and deserve my best attention.
my Dad used to say, if you can’t treat a girl properly, don’t take her out.
 
For my revolvers I clean the barrel, cylinder (including nipple removal) plus all external and internals I can reach every time, then full tear down and clean every other time.

Rifle and shotgun full teardown every time.
 
I strip and clean my revolver and rifle after every session. Mostly using Pyrodex P for both. I'm not paying 55 bucks for Goex when Pyro is $26. If I do use Goex I still strip them down. BP will rust out a firearm, maybe not as fast as Pyrodex but it will. Been using mainly Pyrodex P and RS for over 20 years and my guns were always spit and polish.
 
I strip and clean my revolver and rifle after every session. Mostly using Pyrodex P for both. I'm not paying 55 bucks for Goex when Pyro is $26. If I do use Goex I still strip them down. BP will rust out a firearm, maybe not as fast as Pyrodex but it will. Been using mainly Pyrodex P and RS for over 20 years and my guns were always spit and polish.
That price is outrageous! I pay $25.50 for GOEX delivered to my door and $12 for Black MZ delivered to my door.
Yes at those prices I would shoot the "P" stuff and clean quickly.
Good luck
Bunk
 
pyrodex will rust out any gun faster then any other powder. it is horrible stuff.
 
When you shoot regular Black Powder you never have to clean because it so magical.
SM
not magical at all, just my choice of propellant. APP type powders cleans easier because every shot removes the last fouling and lays down a new one. In other words it is "one shot dirty". and it is compatible with petroleum lubes or none at all as the fouling has lubricating quality.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top