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Does anyone have a pic of powder in a pan?

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Well, view Plecher's video's on line then get back to me if you still think pan powder position and amount is BS !
I've seen them,,, many, many, times. I think I even addressed then above.
And, seeing as you brought it up,,,, dint his tests claim powder position in the pan is nearly irrelevant? The frizzen/pan cover certainly isn't going to hold the powder up against the flash hole, where he did say that, contrary to shooter legend myth and lore, fastest times resulted. But, that those time differences were not within the realm of possible human perception.
 
I've seen them,,, many, many, times. I think I even addressed then above.
And, seeing as you brought it up,,,, dint his tests claim powder position in the pan is nearly irrelevant? The frizzen/pan cover certainly isn't going to hold the powder up against the flash hole, where he did say that, contrary to shooter legend myth and lore, fastest times resulted. But, that those time differences were not within the realm of possible human perception.
As I remember it there was a definite timing difference and consistency factor in pan powder positioning. I also think we can agree that a partial pan of powder under a closed frizzen is going to move about while hunting. Besides that I stated a full pan while hunting was probably better as an opinion and not chiseled in stone.
 
Not so.
That Early Virginia gets weird with a full pan of 3f. Why use more powder than needed?
The bigger lock that I mentioned may need more powder, and tolerate more powder, but I still don't want to fill the pan. The larger flash hole already makes an awful mess all over the shooting bench, why have it blasting even more priming powder all over the place?
I’ll just say, that using the pan full of primer for hunting the past 45 years, has resulted in 100% reliability in all kinds of weather, and dozens of deer,turkeys, and squirrels taken with fast, sure ignition. Why not fill the pan? I may only get one shot during a hunt. I want every chance that the sparks will fall on the powder and the powder in the pan will flash strong enough to set off the main charge. A properly made and positioned flintlock will not block the vent with a full pan. I make my own guns and make sure that is the case.
 
I've seen them,,, many, many, times. I think I even addressed then above.
And, seeing as you brought it up,,,, dint his tests claim powder position in the pan is nearly irrelevant? The frizzen/pan cover certainly isn't going to hold the powder up against the flash hole, where he did say that, contrary to shooter legend myth and lore, fastest times resulted. But, that those time differences were not within the realm of possible human perception.
Actually, powder position in the pan is the the most important variable...just sayin'.

Don't shoot the messenger. 😁
 
I was told that it is not the fire generated from the flash that goes into the flash hole, that sets off the main charge, but it is the heat that is generated from the flash in the pan, that sets' it off..
 
There are differences in controlled lab conditions for testing and photos, priming for line shooting and wandering around the woods with the pan primed.
 
My Fusil and Kibler Colonial locks like just enough, 3-4 grs of so, and the position doesn't seem to matter. My L&R late english locks with the small pans how ever are MUCH more fussy. They need the touch hole picked, the pan wiped every time, and they want a decent amount of prime in the pan. They are how ever smaller locks, with smaller flints and pans. YMMV and there are at least 10,000,000 answers. If you only had $2 for every answer to keep up with inflation.
 
I am of the belief that most not all people tend to over fill there pan with to much powder. why? as we know it will cause the wick effect.
 
WOW! that look's like very course powder? 2fg. mabie?
Yep. 2f. That’s all I use in my flintlock smooth bores for main charge and priming. With the amount shown, there is no delay or fuse effect in that gun. It goes off perfectly every time if I prime consistently and properly maintain the flint and frizzen.

I have a favorite flintlock pistol that uses less. But of course it has a smaller pan also.
 
thank you for the reply. I am going to try 2fg, in my pans.
 
I have read how much powder should be in a pan for a flintlock but does anyone have a pic handy of what it should look like. The written directions seemed simple but maybe a little counterintuitive to my inexperienced mind.
If there is one handy...

You can fill the pan, or you can use just one push of a 4F dispenser. You can cant the rifle to the left or to the right before firing or leave the powder in the middle. You can use 3F avoiding using two powders or use 4F. Every rifle is an individual as is the shooter. What works best for you is what you should use. Have fun finding out what you prefer.
 
I have read how much powder should be in a pan for a flintlock but does anyone have a pic handy of what it should look like. The written directions seemed simple but maybe a little counterintuitive to my inexperienced mind.
If there is one handy...
RFD a member posted on **** tube
 
A member here who goes by Pletch, did timed photography testing which proved the fastest ignition came from the pan powder being at an even level with the touch hole. Scientific proof rather than just opinion.
 
The hottest part of a flame is right next to the source of the combustion material. Since it the heat from the flame in the pan that sets off the charge in the powder chamber, it makes sense that having the pan powder level with or just under the touch hole will the most heat from the burning pan powder available to set off the powder charge.

I have my pan powder evenly placed in the pan and spread out to catch the greatest number of sparks from the frizzen and to have a source of heat next to the touch hole as the powder ignites and heat is transferred to the powder charge. Works for me, so I think I will continue to lay the pan powder evenly in the pan.
 
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