Does anyone know who does charcoal bluing ??
- Thread starter Tenring
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The craftsmen doing that would be by necessity very expensive. You need furnaces, etc. Not worth it for a reproduction item.
The OP didn't ask about pricing, just who does it, but you are correct nothing Turnbull does is cheap.
Tenring
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Perhaps I will just leave it be and let the bluing on the hole gun just naturally wear off, it’s going to get like that anyway . It just bothers me that the bluing on the cylinder is streaked and the rest of the gun is pristine looking. I just don’t want to go dumping more money into a repro pistol for the sake of vanity, you know what I mean.
Cvkotvkse
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Whether it sucks or not, I still think it beats hell out of the alternative!
The problem here is that Old Age dosen't come on it's own, but it's definitly better than the Box!!
. OLD DOG..I do it all the time, my process looks much more black and is consistent and very durable though. I often have my students do it on metal projects they make in my University classes. here are a pair of marking gauges we did last year. One is all charcoal but, the other has a color casehardened base plate and charcoal Blued barrel.
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Phil Coffins
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I agree with a couple of the other guys, charcoal blue is fairly durable. What I’ve seen on some replicas is more of a niter blue, and that can be easily done in mass production. Here is the first test piece that I tried before doing a revolver. It required a oven at 800* and wood charcoal.
IMG_0241 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
IMG_0400 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
IMG_0241 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
IMG_0400 by Oliver Sudden, on FlickrWhere did you find an 800 degree oven?I agree with a couple of the other guys, charcoal blue is fairly durable. What I’ve seen on some replicas is more of a niter blue, and that can be easily done in mass production. Here is the first test piece that I tried before doing a revolver. It required a oven at 800* and wood charcoal.
Phil Coffins
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My heat treat oven goes to 2000* didn’t mean to miss lead.
I used to have a Uberti Walker with the charcoal blued finish, I agree with what was said above that it was more of a nitre blue and not a true charcoal blue. If you have access to a heat treatment furnace the process is really not that difficult. I polish my pieces to 400 grit, degrease, and pack in straight wood charcoal of the type sold by Brownells. They are sealed in welded up mild steel box and placed in the furnace at around 850-900 degrees F. I typically let them cook for about five hours and than cool down over night. When they come out I coat them liberally with oil and let them set for a day before use. I have never needed to repeat, though the English were fond of taking them out and rubbing them down with lime using a piece of tow and than re-distributing them in the pack. This might have been necessary when dealing with fluctuating temperatures, but with a digitally controlled furnace I have never had any problem with consistency. Great process for small parts, but I have never attempted it on anything bigger than a revolver frame, or pistol barrel. Needless to say it would not be a good candidate for parts that have been heat treated.
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John Zimmerman. Harpers Ferry WV
I will have to ask. I do however know that Taylor's uses them for their fire blue screws and nickel plating of their clone SAAs. Maybe call Taylor's and ask them. I would help out more but work has me swamped.
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