Does Jax Black protect like bluing/browning would?

[Daveboone]

I am planning for my Southern Mtn Rifle later this year...I hear a lot about Jax Black for the nice finish it gives, but does it provide any protection like browning/bluing would? I have attempted several searches, but do not come up with much. My shooter will likely see damp weather and conditions on occasion, and I want it to look good ....but also have function to the form
.

 

[NRFord]

No it doesn't.

 

[TDM]

No it doesn't.

Out of curiosity, what have been your negative experiences with it?

 

[NRFord]

"If you seek to duplicate a particular finish, over-darken the metal and then ?relieve? it with steel wool or a polishing cloth, as above. Once you are happy with your finish, you may wax, oil or lacquer the metal as a final step, although in many cases leaving the metal ?unprotected? may be desirable."

Copied from Jax Black own website. Sure if you keep it oiled and wax you may be just fine, some neglect and you'll see rust. I just spoke with Mr. Kibler this afternoon, about this very topic...

 

[NRFord]

Out of curiosity, what have been your negative experiences with it?

What have been your experiences, more than willing to understand this product better.

 

[user 48702]

I have never seen any blackening finish which is durable on brass other than anodizing. All blackening agents wear very easily. In our shop, we use a WWI/WWII military specification brass blackening agent which gives a good even coating, but is not very durable. Sweat, rubbing, normal wear, and some oils/cleaning agents will eventually allow the brass to show through, but gradual wear will generally leave a nice brown patina, which I like on a muzzleloader. All your basically doing is pigmenting the brass surface which is achieved by a mild acid solution.

 

[Togo]

After a summer and fall of hard use at Rendezvous last year, I have areas on my 40 SMR where the black is wearing off, the rifle is a tack driver and has helped me win a lot. I am not going to jinx my rifle by breaking it down to fix the finish. It will take on rust if not properly oiled.

 

[TDM]

What have been your experiences, more than willing to understand this product better.

I don’t have any long term experience beyond 20-22 months. Used it on 2 reworked revolvers, 1 rifle barrel, and 4 locks. All multiple coats and drawn back to what I wanted. I have zero complaints. Haven’t left any of them out in the rain for a performance test as yet, don’t plan to either.

 

[TDM]

After a summer and fall of hard use at Rendezvous last year, I have areas on my 40 SMR where the black is wearing off, the rifle is a tack driver and has helped me win a lot. I am not going to jinx my rifle by breaking it down to fix the finish.

Togo, one thing that I do differently than the Kibler videos is that I go over the metal with warm water and fine or synthetic steel wool before spraying it with WD40. A lot of black comes off doing this and I get a better idea of how many more coats I need. Once I get the color I want, then I kill the process with WD40, another light steel wool polish, then oil it down. It’s worked for me.

 

[Old-Duckman]

Copied from Jax Black own website. Sure if you keep it oiled and wax you may be just fine, some neglect and you'll see rust. I just spoke with Mr. Kibler this afternoon, about this very topic...

That is the case with most older metal finishes. I have seen more than my share of rusted/pitted hot blued firearms. Parkerizing seems to be a robust finish and some of the newer finishes, Cerakote, and nitron seem to be pretty bulletproof, no pun intended. But those finishes sure aren’t period but then again is Tru-Oil? Surely urethane isn’t. Point being, taking care of your firearm is paramount no matter what degree or type of finish is used.