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It is no secret that petroleum products and muzzleloading don't exactly go hand in hand. It's been mentioned on this forum many times. I'm a big believer that the two don't mix. I was merely asking if the product is any good.

It's mentioned, but it's completely, factually untrue, as has been proven a million times over.

Curious if you don't believe P. Products and BP don't mix why you asked about using it in a muzzleloader the first place then?
 
Try it and let us know Eutycus, Maybe it's the new Ballistol, if only Dollar General was around when dutch was doing his testing. :D
 
Unless you are using it for patch lube there is no issue with petroleum in BP arms and might not be then. So long as the fouling is removed before oiling the bore. I also stand MLs muzzle down after oiling to keep oil from puddling in the breech or running into the stock.
If you clean all the fouling out then there is no issue with petroleum. Used them for decades with no issue.
If you have a cupped breech, for example. and let fouling remain there, oil it the subsequent heat and pressure from later firing will cause problems. I fit continues to build up it will fill the cup and in some cases require debreeching to remove the stuff. If you use a commercial BP patch lube or solvent look up the MSDS on the WWW. They are generally 80-90% water and sometimes petroleum distillate. Which is what is in WD-40. Lubes the penetrate usually lake the ability to protect high pressure contact points from wear.
 
Unless you are using it for patch lube there is no issue with petroleum in BP arms and might not be then. So long as the fouling is removed before oiling the bore. I also stand MLs muzzle down after oiling to keep oil from puddling in the breech or running into the stock.
If you clean all the fouling out then there is no issue with petroleum. Used them for decades with no issue.
If you have a cupped breech, for example. and let fouling remain there, oil it the subsequent heat and pressure from later firing will cause problems. I fit continues to build up it will fill the cup and in some cases require debreeching to remove the stuff. If you use a commercial BP patch lube or solvent look up the MSDS on the WWW. They are generally 80-90% water and sometimes petroleum distillate. Which is what is in WD-40. Lubes the penetrate usually lake the ability to protect high pressure contact points from wear.
Maybe just me, but find this response seems to be rather incoherent. Not sure what Dpgar1950 is for or against. Or maybe it is just me.
 
I've been using the DG lube on my clean and still warm BP pistols to displace the water down in the crevices and serve as short term rust preventative. It's worked fine in that role. For longer term rust prevention I apply RIG.
 
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