double set trigger problems GPR

[ciffer]

i can not get my double set trigger to work correctly on my .54 flint lefty GPR. when i pull the set trigger, then the hair trigger, the flint falls to half-cocked every time. if i pull the hair trigger only, it will fire.

the gun was originally a .50 percussion, i purchased a new lock and barrel and installed it on the old stock. the triggers always worked perfectly with the percussion lock.

 

[ozark57]

Look at the interface with the trigger and lock. Does the lock work when it is removed from the stock? When you remove the trigger group, can you set the trigger out of the stock? Remember, the inleting in the stock must be near perfect for the trigger group to interface properly with the lock.

 

[ohio ramrod]

Sounds to me as if the "fly" isn't working or is missing. The "fly" is the little pivoting piece in the tumbler that is supposed to keep the sear from entering the half cock notch when you pull the set trigger. The gun fires when you pull the front only because your finger keeps pressure on the sear. The "set" firing does not keep pressure on the sear.Therefore I suggest you first make sure the fly is present, if it is then make sure it is free to move and is not binding.

 

[ciffer]

Look at the interface with the trigger and lock. Does the lock work when it is removed from the stock? When you remove the trigger group, can you set the trigger out of the stock? Remember, the inleting in the stock must be near perfect for the trigger group to interface properly with the lock.

the lock works fine when it is out of the gun. i can hold it in my hand, cock the flint and hit the sear and the flint will fall all the way, hitting the frizzen.

Sounds to me as if the "fly" isn't working or is missing. The "fly" is the little pivoting piece in the tumbler that is supposed to keep the sear from entering the half cock notch when you pull the set trigger. The gun fires when you pull the front only because your finger keeps pressure on the sear. The "set" firing does not keep pressure on the sear.Therefore I suggest you first make sure the fly is present, if it is then make sure it is free to move and is not binding.

i'll take a look when i get home. hopefully i can get this figured out quickly, i don't like the trigger feel when using the hair trigger only.

 

[rafterob]

There may be some interference with the lock internals so check out the inlet real well, you may need to use some black or lipstick to indicate rubbing spots. It also may likely be the sear/trigger interaction since you have put a new lock in. The trigger bar may not be hitting the sear with enough force or clearance to allow the fly to engage.Is the sear screw too tight? If you don't find any areas binding in the inlet then do some careful measurements of trigger bar height and sear depth in the stock and see how they compare. It may simply be an issue of increasing the spring tension on the trip bar(set trigger).

 

[ciffer]

i took the lock out and compared it to the percussion lock. there is a plate that secures the fly, sear and associated parts. the plate on the flint lock does not seat as well as the percussion lock which allows the fly to be pushed out of where it should be, this causes the fly to malfunction and the lock falls to half cock. swapping parts between the locks doesn't help.

additionally, if i cock the lock then mount it in the stock it will work perfectly the first time and fall to half cock on all following attempts with the aformentioned malfunction.

i think i got a bad lock. i ordered it from lyman, i'll give them a call and see what they say. i guess we get to find out how the customer service is.

in case they are of no help, is there anyone that sells a long-spring fint lock for a LEFTY gpr?

 

[BrownBear]

i ordered it from lyman, i'll give them a call and see what they say. i guess we get to find out how the customer service is.

That's the sensible thing to do. And unless something has changed recently, Lyman's customer service is excellent.

Not sure about a source for a replacement lock, but I doubt you'll need it. Lyman should come through.

 

[ciffer]

i called lyman today and was told to take a punch and tap the plate towards the lock to keep the fly from being pushed out to the side. i did it and everything works correctly now.

 

[necchi]

i called lyman today and was told to take a punch and tap the plate towards the lock to keep the fly from being pushed out to the side. i did it and everything works correctly now.

Yup, and keep an eye on those two screw's and keep'm TIGHT, if they come loose the same trouble will happen. Don't forget to put a little oil on those inside working parts from time ta time

 

[Zonie]

The upper screw on the bridle can be tightened tight but do not over-tighten the screw which goes thru the sear.

This screw which often goes thru the bridle must be left just "snug". If it is over-tightened the sear will not move or if it does move it will take a great deal of force to move it.
This can cause the set triggers to malfunction or if the gun is fired using only the front trigger it can result in a very heavy trigger pull.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Boy, Jim, that is an Understatement! Lock screws should be turned into the lock plate with the same delicate handling you would use in working on a fine Swiss Watch!

 

[Zonie]

About that lower rear screw being slightly loose.

Usually it will just stay where it belongs even if it is not tight but occasionally it will loosen when the gun is fired or the lock is worked.

To prevent this, go to the drug store and buy some clear fingernail polish.
Apply this to the lower rear screws threads and install it like it should be.
You have to work fairly fast because this polish dries fast but if it is still wet when the screw is properly installed it will harden enough to lock the screw in place.
Because nail polish is a lacquer it has enough strength to do the job but it is easily broken loose by using a screw driver in the screw slot if you ever want to remove the screw.

 

[paulvallandigham]

I have a small tube of Loc-Tite that I use on screws that have a mind of their own. This is the red kind, and its easy to turn the screw out if needed. It breaks the seal of the substance, and you just put some new Loc-tite on the screw when you re-install the screw. Simple. But, you are correct about lacquer( nail polish) being a cheap, and often-available-in-your-own-home substitute, that gets the job done!