Dowel for a loading rod.

[leadhoarder]

Is there any issue with using a wooden dowel to load a 10 gauge shotgun barrel? Pushing wads down. I bought a 3/4" oak dowel that has little to no runout. I got lucky as the bin at Lowes was full of ones that had a lot of runout but I got lucky with one of them. I would think with the large diameter involved the runout issue is less important.

My thinking here is that if I am just using it as a pushing tool and not using a jag on it it should not be stressed all that much.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Sounds good to me, I’ve been using the skinny ram rod that my 12 gauge came with so a 3/4” anything should be plenty strong.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

..., a 10 gauge shotgun barrel? Pushing wads down. I bought a 3/4" oak dowel that has little to no runout. ..., I would think with the large diameter involved the runout issue is less important...., My thinking here is that if I am just using it as a pushing tool and not using a jag on it it should not be stressed all that much.

Well if you found one long enough, and you're careful not to flex it too much. There is a lot less pressure from loading when loading a smoothbore.

I have a 1/2" dowel that on one end is a home made screw-worm and the other is a magnet epoxy'd in place. The worm is good for removing other stuff that gets stuck in a musket barrel, and the magnet end is good for picking up things like barrel pins or tiny lock screws when dropped on the shop floor.

LD

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Is there any issue with using a wooden dowel to load a 10 gauge shotgun barrel? Pushing wads down. I bought a 3/4" oak dowel that has little to no runout. I got lucky as the bin at Lowes was full of ones that had a lot of runout but I got lucky with one of them. I would think with the large diameter involved the runout issue is less important.

My thinking here is that if I am just using it as a pushing tool and not using a jag on it it should not be stressed all that much.

With respect to your thought: Extracting a patch or a ball does not deflect the rod. Pushing a load with high gripped hands causes the rod to bend. Bending is what usually causes breakage. You are good to go with 3/4" Oak

 

[Griz44Mag]

All the PC\HC guys will scream bloody murder - that said.......
I bought a used bess and it came with an oak dowel (1/2") that has a brass dead end drilled from a 1/2" brass bar and end drilled and tapped with a 10/32. I cross drilled and pinned it just for good measure.
Judging from the well used appearance, it has been is service as a range tool for quite some time.
It works like a charm, is easy to carry and use. For ramming patched ball (with a 75 cal button jag on board) and doing bore wipes it's perfect and has been very hardy.
Get a good dowel and use it properly - no issues. Yours at 3/4" - you are very unlikely to ever put enough force on it to damage it.

 

[leadhoarder]

With respect to your thought: Extracting a patch or a ball does not deflect the rod. Pushing a load with high gripped hands causes the rod to bend. Bending is what usually causes breakage. You are good to go with 3/4" Oak

Yep that makes sense.

 

[Carbon 6]

Red oak with no run out make a decent rod. Been using one on my rifle for about 5-6 years now, loading cleaning everything. No problems. Oak is strong.

 

[ADK Bigfoot]

I use a 7/8 dowel starter for shot loads in my 20; I use a 1.25" dowel to load my swivel gun. Nothing wrong with using dowels to push stuff down the barrel.

ADK Bigfoot

 

[tenngun]

I’m thinking if you can break off a 3/4 rod in your bore you just need to go and grab the game and wrestle them to the ground. Buff? grizzel bar you be fine.
Realistically still use care, short stokes close to the muzzle, but it would take some bending to break a thick rod. Old guns often had pretty thin rods, those are the ones that you really need a good springy wood.

 

[Old Hawkeye]

I use a 7/8 dowel starter for shot loads in my 20; I use a 1.25" dowel to load my swivel gun. Nothing wrong with using dowels to push stuff down the barrel.

ADK Bigfoot

Trying to figure out how you get a .87" dowel in a .62" barrel????

 

[Grenadier1758]

Hmm, @ADK Bigfoot, if you can use a 7/8" ( 0.875") short starter in a 20 gauge (0.615") you ought to be able to start the ball with your thumb. Of course after the first start you will scrape off a lot of excess wood from that dowel.

 

[Old Hawkeye]

Is there any issue with using a wooden dowel to load a 10 gauge shotgun barrel? Pushing wads down. I bought a 3/4" oak dowel that has little to no runout. I got lucky as the bin at Lowes was full of ones that had a lot of runout but I got lucky with one of them. I would think with the large diameter involved the runout issue is less important.

My thinking here is that if I am just using it as a pushing tool and not using a jag on it it should not be stressed all that much.

Wood dowels are all I use to load both my 12 & 20 gauge shotguns. Cut a slit in one end about 2'' deep with a hack saw, then slide a 2.5" square patch or two in it & use it to clean & swab your bore. No need for fancy rods & jags on a shotgun. 5/8" for 12 gauge & 9/16" for 20 gauge if you want to use the patches & clean. 3/4" might work good for the 10 with patches, but I have never tried. If just loading any dowel will work. One in the truck, one in the duck boat, & one in the shop. Ramrod with tips stays under the barrels. I wouldn't worry about runout on a shotgun rod. Can't imagine how you could break one loading wads & shot.

 

[GREENSWLDE]

Don't know if the Dowel we get in DIY stores is different to yours but I've had a couple splinter in smooth bores. Since 1974 I've used an old hickory Golf putter shaft I inherited. It' very flexible. Lately bound with fiber glass tape because of ware near the thin end from a lot of sharp muzzles. Possibly Past it's 100th birthday. OLD DOG..

 

[earlwb]

Is there any issue with using a wooden dowel to load a 10 gauge shotgun barrel? Pushing wads down. I bought a 3/4" oak dowel that has little to no runout. I got lucky as the bin at Lowes was full of ones that had a lot of runout but I got lucky with one of them. I would think with the large diameter involved the runout issue is less important.

My thinking here is that if I am just using it as a pushing tool and not using a jag on it it should not be stressed all that much.

If you think about it, they have been using wood loading rods for centuries now with muzzleloading guns. So there is no problem with doing it. I would go for a really good rod such as made from Oak, Hickory, etc. But even a oversized dowel rod from the hardware store would work too.

 

[ADK Bigfoot]

Fat fingers gave me 7/8th instead of 5/8th dowel. I am not strong enough to use the former!

ADK Bigfoot

 

[LME]

Any hard wood dowel with straight grain will work but not the soft wood ones. The soft wood dowel may work for a while but you may regret it . I have a brass one and haven't had any problem!

 

[L W Smith]

Is there any issue with using a wooden dowel to load a 10 gauge shotgun barrel? Pushing wads down. I bought a 3/4" oak dowel that has little to no runout. I got lucky as the bin at Lowes was full of ones that had a lot of runout but I got lucky with one of them. I would think with the large diameter involved the runout issue is less important.

My thinking here is that if I am just using it as a pushing tool and not using a jag on it it should not be stressed all that much.

When in doubt go stout...!!

 

[Eterry]

I'll kick the Hornets nest by saying I've used hardwood dowels from the discount center for over 40 years. As I've said before I started black powder in the sticks, with no television or phone. When the factory ramrod gave out I knew of no other thing to do.

Of course the rod was too big, but sandpaper and patience fixed that. Mom had me sit on the back porch so not to make a mess. I glued the brass ends on and i never lost one.

I learned early on that short stroking the ramrod kept it from breaking as often.

I still use dowel rods as range rods for my smooth bores. I bought a 1" rod I use for a handle. Cut a short piece and drill a hole to epoxy the dow into it. Even turned the handle on my lathe to cut grooves in it for grasping.

 

[Crawfish]

I began using dowels years ago shooting in Louisiana out in the swamp lands. My hand slipped loading my Navy Arms 12 ga, and the heavy wood ramrod shot out of the barrel like a missile, fell into the waters of Lake Maurepas, and was lost. Big stout dowel is a better field choice! And it floats!

 

[jbwilliams3]

I once bought a gun with a 47-inch barrel and soon realized I didn't have a cleaning rod long enough. Wouldn't have been a big deal initially but I wanted to really give it a good cleaning and it only had a bare wood tip. The tapered skinny end was so small that even my little wire friction fit worm was too big. So I headed to the nearest hardware store to grab a 48-inch dowel. The only long dowels they had left were some kind of soft wood. Reluctantly, I took the straightest-grained 7/16th dowel I could find with the intention of replacing it with a hickory rod later. I put a spare rod tip on it and used it for years and never had a problem. That rod is still n my shop even though I have since made longer hickory rods. All that to say, what you are proposing to use will work no problemo.