drop tubing revolver loads

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A shorter jump to the forcing cone and rifling. Theoretically this allows for greater accuracy. I’m not convinced of that personally but others are.
I can't see a shorter jump, less travel between ignition and forcing cone yes, but distance of jump is a constant, as built into the frame and barrel connection.
Reason that I asked though is because in my mind there is bug saying that over the given 25grns that an inch of travel inside the chamber would increase the velocity of barrel entry and allow a greater exit velocity, like making the barrel an inch longer, but truthfully, I'm not at all sure that bug in my brain knows anything.
 
A shorter jump to the forcing cone and rifling. Theoretically this allows for greater accuracy. I’m not convinced of that personally but others are. If, as is the case with some replicas, the chambers are tapered, I could see the point. In the case of guns like the Ruger and others in which the chamber is bored straight for the majority of its depth I can’t see how it would make a noticeable difference. Shoot a few target loads of .38 special in your best .357 magnum and report back…
Have played with it both ways and don't see any real difference in accuracy. And get excellent results from .38 specials in 357 revolvers,
 
A shorter jump to the forcing cone and rifling. Theoretically this allows for greater accuracy. I’m not convinced of that personally but others are. If, as is the case with some replicas, the chambers are tapered, I could see the point. In the case of guns like the Ruger and others in which the chamber is bored straight for the majority of its depth I can’t see how it would make a noticeable difference. Shoot a few target loads of .38 special in your best .357 magnum and report back…
I have seen some match percussion revolvers with shortened cylinders and the barrel set back to close up the gap to an exceptable width. I've not comparatively tested wither or not seating the ball out full length makes an accuracy difference to short seating but accuracy is very good using the method in conjunction with cream of wheat filler.
I prefer cream of wheat to corn meal because it is oil free and doesn't sponge compress like CM.
 
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I made up a small 4" brass tube with a small brass funnel on the end to help me get the loose powder into the cylinder's chambers, so I don't get spilled powder all over the gun - works well but the reloading is slow.:thumb:
 
I made up a small 4" brass tube with a small brass funnel on the end to help me get the loose powder into the cylinder's chambers, so I don't get spilled powder all over the gun - works well but the reloading is slow.:thumb:
The most accurate way is to build a drop tube stand that holds the cylinder chamber in line with the drop tube end. You need some real drop height to get a meaningful powder compactment. It can also be done with a vibrator to some extent but is not as effective as a 30-36 inch drop tube.
I went down to the local hardware store and bought a 3 foot long by 1/2 inch diameter tube of anodized aluminum and affixed a tapered internal diameter end coupling and removable funnel I made on the lathe to load .38 through .45 cal brass cases.
 

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