Everyone’s replies has given me a lot to ponder, @Billy Boy slight contact is actually what I have. The “front” of the drum from about 3:00 down to 6:00 is slightly touching the lock plate. From 6:00 to 9:00 (the rear of the drum) there is a gap that increases from touching, to approximately 1/8”. Basically the drum is sitting forward a touch in the half circle in the lock plate, I hope this description makes sense.
Drum to Lock fit…
- Thread starter dkasprzak
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A few pictures would help to understand the issue better.
rdane
40 Cal
Move the barrel back slightly. When all is bolted tight it will probably make contact all around.
I have a rifle that was a kit that I put together. On mine, the drum sits a little bit similar to what you have there. I never fiddled with it. I've got a few hundred shots through it with no problems.
I imagine that you could shave a little wood off the stock's barrel channel to drop the barrel down a fraction of an inch.
For cosmetics the barrel could be set back a little, but the force of the hammer blow is in the direction of contact with the lock plate. Should be fine.
rdane
40 Cal
I think you will be fine the way it is.
My point is, it was stated it would break if it wasn't supported. Mine has lasted over a century without breaking.I do also. Does not mean it's right....
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This is one of many reasons the underhammer is my favorite type of action. If the axis of the nipple and drum are perpendicular to the hammer's direction of impact, the drum won't experience any shock bending loads. Metal strength for short columns and threaded fasteners is (almost?) always highest in compression. JMO.
I built a Traditions Kentucky pistol, not the same firearm I know, but when I was finished building it, my bolster was just touching at the 3 o’clock position and gaping a bit at 9 o’clock. After running around 20 balls in front of 40 gr of 3F, Bingo! The bolster sits more or less in the center of the cradle. your mileage may very
