Drum to Lock fit…
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Larry Akers
40 Cal.
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The drum should be supported by the lockplate.
Bighorserider
40 Cal
That's what I thought when I built my only drum and nipple rifle, and I worked hard to do it, but I have since on this forum that they shouldn't touch.
@Bighorserider That’s why I asked the question, on a patent breech with a snail I know no part of the barrel or snail should touch the lock assembly. Then I read on a drum and nipple barrel the lock plate supports the drum. Still not sure which it should be….thanks for the follow-up.
Erwan
45 Cal.
That's right, they shouldn't touch...
Can rectification of the drum with file or, much better, on a lathe. If the error is a bit important rest the old solution of a mini bedding under barrel with nerve glue, fish glue and sawdust or skin to stay like in the past (personally I do not like modern products)...
rdane
40 Cal
The drum should always be supported by the lock. If not, you risk breaking the the drum off from constant hammering. Truth.
Bighorserider
40 Cal
As usual with anything black powder, you ask a question and you get 2 opposite answers. It's the same way with horses.
I have a friend who is one of the best restorers of antique firearms in the country. He agrees with you on this point.
rdane
40 Cal
Supporting the drum with the lock is why I won’t use a backaction lock with a drum, no support, and I promise that if it’s not support, at sometime in the future, the guy on the right will get an ear full of drum.
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longcruise
70 Cal.
Definitely needs to be supported.
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Bighorserider
40 Cal
That was always my assumption. I was surprised to see that some people don't think the drum needs support
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I vote for support. Also , Have assembled several back actions on guns , and haven't had any come back for broken drum.
I have an old ML from the mid 1800s. It has what looks like the original drum and has No support.
Pete G
76 Cal.
I do also. Does not mean it's right....
Erwan
45 Cal.
When building, the drum becomes a part of the barrel by screwing and must be free as the barrel when shooting. The function of the drum doesn't have anything to see with the lock plate...
In the case of permanent and pressed contact, then it can transmit the chocks and vibrations of the barrel to the plate, and so be a cause of tiredness of the two parts. That could be engaging the breaking of the drum because the lock plate can move in the stock but never the screwing in the barrel...
It's mechanical...
In the case of permanent and pressed contact, then it can transmit the chocks and vibrations of the barrel to the plate, and so be a cause of tiredness of the two parts. That could be engaging the breaking of the drum because the lock plate can move in the stock but never the screwing in the barrel...
It's mechanical...
rdane
40 Cal
Disagree. With respect.
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I've never seen a drum break off , but have seen a drum's threads get sloppy because the owner took it out for cleaning each time he shot the gun and cleaned it. Not supposed to do that. Custom M/l barrel steel is usually a lead bearing softer steel and the threads in the drum hole can be stressed...........oldwood
rdane
40 Cal
I think a lot depends on the thread size of the drum. I’ve seen 1/4-28, up to 3/8. Most drums are 1/2” in diameter. If you had a drum with say, 1/2-20 thread, I don’t think it would ever break. I have repaired guns with 1/4-20 thread that shot loose, by going to 5/16-18.
The lock plate should make slight contact with drum. Otherwise the hammer blow is ultimately absorbed by the drum threads.
