Dumping Ballistol and Gun Oil

[ColonialRifleSmith]

To clarify, I've stated that my quest is to replace which does not mean skimp, be cheap, or substitute with a product of lesser capability. Lesser cost does not always equate to a lesser capability. I could coat bores and chambers with used axle grease for $0 and it would inhibit rust as much as any rust inhibitor - obviously impractical. And, we aren't talking about intricate machinery or engines here that require specialized lubrication.

Also, replace does mean substitute with something that would be harmful to guns that are worth significant $. That would be stupid.

One of the smartest men in the world said, " Stupid is that stupid does". If it ain't broke don't fix it. Semper Fi.

 

[Dale Allen Raby]

Any soap, hot water, any non-partisan oil or grease. Just that simple.

 

[S.Kenton]

I use 1 part murphys oil soap, 1 part rubbing alcohol and 1 part ammonia for cleaning and as a patch lube at woods walks or shooting matches… as long as the load will fired in a short amount of time.. wouldn’t leave it in the barrel forever.
For bore preservation I use fluid film or synthetic oil.

 

[chorizo]

People who wear clothes need labels. People who play golf need labels. People who shoot guns need labels.

If you went back in history, you'd see gun owners using things like olive oil, coconut oil, whale oil, lard, bee's wax or an all natural concoction to lubricate their cherished firearms. The stuff must have worked. Because we have functioning examples of guns that were built 250 years ago. And the closest thing they had to high end cleaning products was the creek behind the house and the bar soap in the kitchen.

What worked back then will still work today. But the advertisers have people believing that their rifle will immediately deteriorate into a pile of rust if their new and improved product isn't purchased.

Yep, digging a trench with a wooden shovel worked back then and works now. Why let 300 years of stupidity and back breaking work take be overtaken by science and progress. Same applies to gun oils.

 

[Tenring]

Jedediah Smith used whale Oil, Not super lube.

 

[chorizo]

Jedediah Smith used whale Oil, Not super lube.

Sure did. Now go find some whale oil to use. I will wait for your response when you find it.

 

[B P Maniac Shooter]

Water & soap for the barrel and fresh 10W-30 motor oil for the lubrication.

 

[Tenring]

Just found it I new I put it somewhere. LOL… But seriously I use what ever gun oil I have around the house enough to keep any moisture away. I have been trying the brand Brake Free in Synthetic oil it’s a little thicker than conventional gun oils but it works also.

 

[Will]

I just can't fathom the thought of putting something down the bore of my muzzleloader that goes into a vehicle's motor.

 

[The Appalachian]

I just can't fathom the thought of putting something down the bore of my muzzleloader that goes into a vehicle's motor.

Exactly

 

[SOLANCO]

I don't skimp on oils and cleaning products, no matter whether it's for use on guns, tools or machinery. I feel the cost of a tried and true proven product is not worth chancing a bulk substitute that may or may not work as intended. I like Ballistol so I buy it, a little goes a long way. I use a lot of Marvel Mystery Oil which is not very expensive, about $8 for a quart. I use the Marvel Mystery Oil for light lubrication of moving machine parts as well as for drilling or cutting tools. It is primarily a light mineral oil with added solvents, probably about 5W viscosity.

I know folks who will buy an expensive $700 to $1,000 plus Stihl chain saw, which is one of the best brands in my book, and then buy the cheapest SAE 30 weight oil for their gas mix because they want to save money. They then wonder why after a few weeks of using the saw they have burned the engine up or damaged the rings and piston at a minimum. Sure SAE 30 oil will mix with gasoline and provide lubrication and limited protection, but will separate and eventually settle to the bottom of the container; therefore, if you don't shake the container each time you use it, one might as well just use straight gasoline.

I only use the Stihl brand premixed fuel. Once you open the can it has a one year shelf life and you won't need to shake it. It is not cheap, but I am not a logger or a landscaper so a little goes a long way.

 

[SOLANCO]

Cool water and soap to clean. Whatever oil…motor, Marvel or 3 in 1. I use grease on sliding interfaces like lock parts.

The old armorer's axiom. If it rotates oil it. If it slides grease it.

 

[B P Maniac Shooter]

I just can't fathom the thought of putting something down the bore of my muzzleloader that goes into a vehicle's motor.

I had an ol' time Gunbuilder of 50 years tell me that tip.
Works great for me.

 

[Will]

I had an ol' time Gunbuilder of 50 years tell me that tip.
Works great for me.

I'm 76 and I can tell you that being an old timer doesn't always make you smart.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Urine and bear fat.

Keep it traditional and cheap.

 

[LME]

I have been into M.L. weapons for a long time. I have always used water, soap and machine oil and it has never failed me. Why waste my money to get the same results as others at a steeper cost?

 

[64Springer]

The only thing I've gotten from this thread is that you shouldn't try to clean and lubricate your muzzleloader with a 300 year old wooden shovel.

 

[user 34300]

I used to clean customer guns. Olive oil, any vegetable oil, will eventually make congealed varnish like mess. On modern guns it can get so bad as to prevent functioning.

 

[64Springer]

I used to clean customer guns. Olive oil, any vegetable oil, will eventually make congealed varnish like mess. On modern guns it can get so bad as to prevent functioning.

I've seen very old vegetable oil congeal. Take off the cap and there's a crusty ring of goop. Vegetable oil turns rancid with time and breaks down. It begins to smell like boiled linseed oil. Don't try cooing with it. Yuk.

Never experienced the above with olive oil.

I've read that coconut oil never breaks down, turns rancid or gets hard and goopy.

Might be time for some SWAG testing.

 

[oldwood]

I detest cleaning m/l rifles, so 40 yrs. ago , went to hdw. store , equipped laundry sink faucet with a screw on water hose connection, 4' piece of clear plastic tubing , a probe of automobile brake line. The brake line tubing , and the other two elements put together w/ hose clamps . This rifle cleaning frustration buster works like this. Attach hose fitting to sink faucet , insert break fluid tubing into the rifle bore to the breech plug face. Removed the lock for tooth brush cleaning under faucet. Hold rifle muzzle so effluent goes into laundry sink. With one hand , hold , or clamp a cleaning patch over touch hole ,turn on hot water faucet , and wait for barrel to get hot to the touch. Dump cleaning water out , run a couple dry patches down the bore with your favorite lube , cleaning brew , I prefer WD 40. Clean , and lube lock , and reassemble gun. Done , unless furniture wax desired for exterior. A further enhancement to the rifle cleaning frustration buster , is a 48" by 10 " board with a dead man post under one end of the board , and a simple "c" clamp to attach the board to the sink , so the rifle can just lay on the board while being flushed w/ hot water.
This sounds like a lot , but it only has to be done once ,and from then on ,just use it , and store it until next time.
M/L cleaning frustration , busted.