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Dunlap Woodcraft Rifle Kits

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gonzomann

40 Cal.
Joined
Feb 5, 2006
Messages
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Hello, all

I have read very positive things about the Dunlap kits. Has anyone
here ever built one of these? I am looking at the Isaac Haines "C" in
lefty configuration, .40 cal. Here s a link:[url] http://www.dunlapwoodcrafts.com/ihsets.htm[/url]
They are using a Rice barrel and a Jim Chambers large siler lock. I
would love to hear any personal experiences before I plunk down my
hard earned change.....
I have been in touch with them by email, and the prices start at $725 for what they call "grade 4 curly maple" up to $965 for the best "grade 7 curly maple" and brass furniture. $45 less for iron furniture.


Thanks,
SquirrelHeart
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I built the Dunlap Haines with 38" B weight barrel in .45 caliber last year. The wood has a nice figure and good grain direction through the wrist. Rice barrels with the round bottom rifleing are the best in my limited experience. The parts in the set are very good quality.

I have another one in .50 caliber 42" barrel that I'll start sometime later in the year.

If you build a .40 in a C weight barrel it's going to be heavier then the B profile.

Old Salt
 
Old Salt,
Would you reccomend the "B" profile for a .40 cal over the "C"? I will be shooting at squirrels mostly, up to coyote and such.
 
Squirrel,

I've built "several" of the very kit you're talking about.

Top Notch, you won't be disappointed. You'll always get better wood than you expect.

Wayne is awesome.
 
I'd opt for the "b" weight barrel over the "C" unless you are doing some serious target shooting. I had a "b" wieght .45 and it was a dream to carry in the woods. Shot well too. If you check out Rice barrel's website it will show you the dimensions of the barrels. Good luck on your new gun!!!!!
 
I have build 9 or 10 of them & they are great parts sets. I would go with the "B" weight as that will get it down to about 7# to 7.5# and the C weight will be heavier & IMHO too much barrel for a lil 40 cal. in that rifle.

I have a LH Haines built "In the White" here now that the parts & wood came from from Wayne. One thing I would mention, if I use the single trigger I use Waynes triggerguard & if I use a double set trigger I use a triggerguard from Tip Curtis on it, cause it is a size between Waynes large & small TG & fits to the rifle & double triggers better than his large guard.

Also if you want the rifle with no inlets, Wayne will do that for ya also. Several times I picked my own wood, then had him get the stock rough shaped & the barrel inlet & RR hole drilled & I did the rest.

Wayne Dunlap is a top notch guy to deal with. I have bought over 50 blanks/stocks combined from him & probably have 10 here right now from him. His Grade 7 is one H of a fine piece of wood !

:thumbsup:
 
SquirrelHeart said:
Old Salt,
Would you reccomend the "B" profile for a .40 cal over the "C"? I will be shooting at squirrels mostly, up to coyote and such.

I agree with the others regarding the B" weight barrel. I'm sure there will be more than 1 pound in barrel weight difference.

Old Salt
 
Thanks for the info gentlemen. Welcho, that site is where I first found out about the Dunlap kits, but I have seen little else on the Dunlap stuff - that is why I am fishin' here.... Sounds like anyone familiar with them have been satisfied with the overall quality!
After reading the input, looks like I will probably go with the "B" instead of the "C" profile.
I greatly appreciate everyone's comments.
 
This is a I.H. from Dunlap in .54 "C" weight Getz bbl I put together a few years ago. I wanted a plain light weight hunting rifle and it worked out great for me, very easy parts kit to assemble.

FOUR.jpg


Two.jpg


ONE.jpg
 
Now that is sweeeet! Did you use the trigger guard that came with the kit? That looks a lot like what I am looking to build......

:thumbsup:
 
I just checked-out the website and I would like to ask a question.(forgive me if it is a foolish one).The stocks look well-carved except for the fore-end area that just has flat wood.Is this area meant to be cut-off or do you have to carve and inlet it?
 
Pyrodex , The square stock ahead of the lock panels help to hold the gun in the vise when working on it. Good for all the drilling you do for ramrod pipes and barrel lugs. Once you get the gun together you then shape the fore arm. :v
 
THanks Swamp Rat!I have never made a BPR from a kit before but would like to try it!Sounds like a thoughtful touch on the kit maker's part,i gues the high price for the kit reflects the quality of it's components.I guess the hard part would be carving the flat part so that it matches the pre-carved sections of the stock.
 
SquirrelHeart said:
Now that is sweeeet! Did you use the trigger guard that came with the kit? That looks a lot like what I am looking to build......

:thumbsup:

Thanks.

No, it is not the one that came with parts kit, I opted for a set trigger & wanted the large trigger guard for gloved hand in the winter so as to use front trigger only.
 
Pyrodex said:
I just checked-out the website and I would like to ask a question.(forgive me if it is a foolish one).The stocks look well-carved except for the fore-end area that just has flat wood.Is this area meant to be cut-off or do you have to carve and inlet it?

Check out Mike Brook's gunbuilding threads ( Link ). He will walk you through the process of rounding off the forestock. It isn't as difficult as it sounds.
 
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