e advice.

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Yes you do have to stop the acid. I believe you need to apply baking soda after staining then use the heat gun. ( I believe) I don't use it but thats what I ve heard. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.


Beaver T.
 
why on earth would you post a reply that you have (admittedly)no experience?
I just don't understand some of you mopes that "what I heard or what I read" does not equal to" here is my DIRECT EXPERIENCE with such and such a way of doing such and such to achieve these results.
 
Little Buffalo said:
Zonie, were those rifles stained with the Walnut or Colonial Brown? Very nice.

That little yellow bottle on the bookshelf bares a striking resemblance to Ye Ole Aqua Fortis. :wink:
The one on the left was stained with several coats of the Colonial Brown.
The third from the left was stained with multiple coats of Solar-Lux Brown Maple.
The second and forth were stained with multiple coats of Walnut and Maple Brown.
The two on the right were stained with multiple coats of Birchwood Casey Walnut.

When I say multiple coats, understand that I do not use the stains at full strength.

I always thin them at least 50 percent with either a Reducer for the Solar-Lux or with denatured alcohol for the Walnut. (Reducer is just a fancy, expensive thinner).

By thinning the stain, I am able to apply several coats of the same or of different stains to slowly develop the color I'm after. (You can't do this with a oil based stain).

While I'm talking let me say, NEVER use a sealer on the wood before you stain it or before you use aqua-fortis.
You want these coloring agents to be able to soak into the wood and a "sealer" will prevent that.

Also, while I'm at it, NEVER sand the bare wood with a sand paper finer than 280 grit.
220 grit is where I stop.

The 320, 400, 600 etc grit papers will not make the finished gun any smoother and they will close off the woods pores and grain so it won't accept the staining fluid like it must for a quality look.

Oh. The yellow bottles.
No, those are not aqua-fortis. They are the good old fashioned Hoppe's No. 9 solvent for Nitro powder. :grin:
 
Zonie said:
When I say multiple coats, understand that I do not use the stains at full strength.

I always thin them at least 50 percent with either a Reducer for the Solar-Lux or with denatured alcohol for the Walnut. (Reducer is just a fancy, expensive thinner).

By thinning the stain, I am able to apply several coats of the same or of different stains to slowly develop the color I'm after. (You can't do this with a oil based stain).

While I'm talking let me say, NEVER use a sealer on the wood before you stain it or before you use aqua-fortis.
You want these coloring agents to be able to soak into the wood and a "sealer" will prevent that.

Jim,

You did not mention it directly, though you talked about using thinned stains to build up the colour, but don't you also have to be very light handed with the stain wherever there is end grain in the stock? Otherwise the stain will soak in too much and look too dark and splotchy where there is end grain.

This is the reason why I do use one thinned coat of Tru Oil as a sealer and then sand the surface back with the final grit paper before staining. Got this tip from those who do finishing on fine furniture many years ago.

Gus
 
i agree, if you don't have any direct experience then don't :yakyak: i wish someone with real exp. would give me a straight answer. do you have to stop the acid from working? and exactly how?
 
I want the "end grain" to get darker than the adjacent areas.

The thing that causes curly woods to have stripes is the fact that those stripes are end grain.

Curly wood like maple does not have straight grain like regular wood.
The grain is shaped in waves, like I tried to show in this sketch.



The area where the outward and inward areas of the wave meet the surface exposes the "end grain" and makes the stripes.

When these exposed end grains absorb more stain they become darker and stand out proudly.

As I said, I would never use anything that keeps the stain from fully penetrating the wood.

Even in a plain grained wood, the irregularities caused by the woods grain and the contrast in color due to some areas absorbing more stain than others is what makes the wood beautiful.
 
dixie cat said:
...do you have to stop the acid from working? and exactly how?

I use a paste made from baking powder. Slather it on, let it sit and wipe it off with damp paper towels. Some people use household ammonia.

You can also omit the neutralizing, though some claim the maple will continue to darken. The one gun where I did not neutralize really hasn't darkened appreciably in more than 10 years since I built it.

Ultimately the choice to neutralize is up to you.
 
Jim,

I was referring to the end grain as shown in your chart. In a muzzle stock, this shows up in the curved portion of the top and bottom of the grip and often extends along the bottom of the butt. It also shows up at the front of some cheek pieces as well as the front of the curved down area right behind the bottom of the grip.

If one is not careful, those areas will suck up stain faster and deeper than the rest of the wood in the stock and cause blotches.

Gus
 
Sorry, meant to write above "muzzle loading stock."

I also realize that maple does not take stain as well as walnut, so you don't have as much problems with "blotchy areas" as with walnut.

Gus
 
"MOPE," I always wondered what I was, guess I know now, not sure what a mope is but glad to know where I fit in the world, and it's nice to understand the nature of things, I think I will think twice before I say anything in the future, Mopes, I take it, should keep quiet.
 
Like I said , baking soda! You see I didn't use it because of the acid and not having the proper material to catch it. I have researched it and some of my friends are the best at making muzzle loaders. This is one area I get my info from. If you use it or not the propers steps were correct, and I did my research otherwise I wouldn't have answered. Being NO one else would answer the question. Enough said!

B.T
 
vulture said:
"MOPE," I always wondered what I was, guess I know now, not sure what a mope is but glad to know where I fit in the world, and it's nice to understand the nature of things, I think I will think twice before I say anything in the future, Mopes, I take it, should keep quiet.

Lots of threads on these forums seem quick to get hostile these days. Wasn't like that several years ago when I first joined. If this forum is like some others I have participated in over the years, it will apex and then go into a gradual state of decline. Entropy.
 
Entropy???????

IS that like when tomtom gets hot, and just lays up in the window all day, never moving?????
:rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

marc n tomtom
 
Little Buffalo said:
vulture said:
"MOPE," I always wondered what I was, guess I know now, not sure what a mope is but glad to know where I fit in the world, and it's nice to understand the nature of things, I think I will think twice before I say anything in the future, Mopes, I take it, should keep quiet.

Lots of threads on these forums seem quick to get hostile these days. Wasn't like that several years ago when I first joined. If this forum is like some others I have participated in over the years, it will apex and then go into a gradual state of decline. Entropy.


Seems fine to me. Except for a few complainers. :slap:
 
Rifleman1776 said:
Little Buffalo said:
vulture said:
"MOPE," I always wondered what I was, guess I know now, not sure what a mope is but glad to know where I fit in the world, and it's nice to understand the nature of things, I think I will think twice before I say anything in the future, Mopes, I take it, should keep quiet.

Lots of threads on these forums seem quick to get hostile these days. Wasn't like that several years ago when I first joined. If this forum is like some others I have participated in over the years, it will apex and then go into a gradual state of decline. Entropy.


Seems fine to me. Except for a few complainers. :slap:
:hatsoff: :hatsoff:
 
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