A bit of a gap string the top 1/3 of your frizzen should channel your spark to the pan. Adjust so it hits on an angle, if not you'll just break flints. You'll get it. It Can be frustrating, but once you solve the puzzle, you'll grin a lot
Enough spark?
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*StrikingA bit of a gap string the top 1/3 of your frizzen should channel your spark to the pan. Adjust so it hits on an angle, if not you'll just break flints. You'll get it. It Can be frustrating, but once you solve the puzzle, you'll grin a lot
Snakebit is right. At half cock it's holding the frizzen open, that be a problem. Also notice that flint has a nasty hump in it, that'll make em hard to position and keep in postion. Not centered well over the pan either.
Good call Indy. Didn't notice the hump first time.
Hatchet-Jack
54 Cal.
That pan has a lot of fouled powder in it and the touch hole is plugged up. I'm wondering if we are trouble shooting the wrong issue (B below)
Just to clarify, is the problem?
A) Prime is flashing in the pan but the main charge is not igniting?
Or
B) Prime is not igniting at all or inconsistently? This is what I assumed is the problem.
If it's A wipe the fouling out of the pan and pick the touch hole.
If it's B keep experimenting. Try wiping the pan. Fouling can suck up moisture if it's humid. That can dampen your prime. If that doesn't work (it's a longshot) but maybe try some new powder or test the powder in another flintlock.
The flint in the pictures looks to be just a hair too large.
Who made the lock, and what is their recommendation for flint size?
When ordering flints, I always request the "flattest" ones they have.
When setting one up, I want about a 1/16" gap between the frizzen and flint edge when resting at half cock. I also want a slight "Downward scraping angle" of the flint in relation to the frizzen when they touch. This helps with flint and frizzen longevity.
Definitely wipe the pan and clear the vent often to insure quick and proper ignition!
Who made the lock, and what is their recommendation for flint size?
When ordering flints, I always request the "flattest" ones they have.
When setting one up, I want about a 1/16" gap between the frizzen and flint edge when resting at half cock. I also want a slight "Downward scraping angle" of the flint in relation to the frizzen when they touch. This helps with flint and frizzen longevity.
Definitely wipe the pan and clear the vent often to insure quick and proper ignition!
Is the frizzen contacting the barrel?
I have shortened the flint, took the big hump off so the jaws could get a better grip on the flint and cut a notch in the leather so the flint goes back all the way against the screw. The frizzen closes completely in the half cock position now with a slight gap between it and the flint. Looks like it is throwing lots of spark in the pan. I will try it out after church and see if it sets the pan off more consistent now.
Looks good to go.
Bevel up or down? (Help any?)
Sidney Smith
58 Cal.
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You should be able to mount the flint either way without the flint holding the frizzen open at half cock. Your flint is too large. Get rid of that flint and try a smaller one. The flint should not be touching the frizzen or just barely touching at half cock, but not so much that it holds the frizzen open. The way yours is holding the frizzen open is no Bueno. Toss that flint and get a smaller one. Just don't get one that's too small.
My guns that have Siler locks leave the frizzen closed when at half cock no matter which way I mount the flint. This is what you want.
My guns that have Siler locks leave the frizzen closed when at half cock no matter which way I mount the flint. This is what you want.
beardedhorse
Pilgrim
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Have you determined lock maker? It looks like L & R Manton with rain proof pan, roller bearing on frizzen spring. Order flint size to match your lock. Get one with no humps. A good flint knapper can shorten length of one too long and a diamond grinder can reduce hump. Check cast in boss on bottom of frizzen. Should not have gap between It and top of pan. A good lock smith will stone these so it is tight with no daylight. Check fit between bolster on lock and octagon flat of barrel and that side of frizzen does not rub against that flat. You should be able to trouble shoot the ignition yourself. If all else fails there are professional locksmiths that can tune it for a price.
Up
It is a L&R and does fit the description of the manton I have cut the flint down and seems to be working good now
That last vid you put up looked pretty good, nice pile of embers right in line with the flash hole. Someone mentioned making sure the vent liner is clear, that's another piece of good advise and it should go bang when you want it too.
Just eyeballing it I'd have to agree with those who think the flint is too large for the lock.
All good info. Another measure I use to see if getting enough spark is a great big hole in what I shot at. 
